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Discuss How Would U Deal With This in the Australia Tiling Forum area at TilersForums.com.

A

assegayer

Hi guys the last tiler that done the place tiled straight over floorboards and they crack all the time yearly or every 3 months..how would you reccomend that i cover this surface to tile on.

Could i screw them down firmly then pour self leveling compound or rapid set cement on them?

Or would i have to put down some plywood 9mm.

Thanks in advance

20151201_185953.jpg 20151201_190210.jpg
 
O

Old Mod

They look shot to pieces.
Personally I'd want floor boards ripped out and replaced with
Ply and overboarded with 6mm Hardie or similar
Or Hardie do a 22mm structural grade flooring u can tile straight on to.
If u don't do correct prep now while u have chance, they'll just keep cracking, and I guess u've had enough of that!
You need to make your sub floor as solid and rigid as possible, add noggins between joists too, whilst boards are up.
Aim for 300 centres if u can.
 
A

assegayer

They look shot to pieces.
Personally I'd want floor boards ripped out and replaced with
Ply and overboarded with 6mm Hardie or similar
Or Hardie do a 22mm structural grade flooring u can tile straight on to.
If u don't do correct prep now while u have chance, they'll just keep cracking, and I guess u've had enough of that!
You need to make your sub floor as solid and rigid as possible, add noggins between joists too, whilst boards are up.
Aim for 300 centres if u can.

Thanks for the reply. So i take it that the tubbed adhesive that can be spread on floorboards is crap..off course providing that i replace some of the floor boards and put some noggins as you suggested
 
A

assegayer

Also should i leave 2mm gaps between the ply for expansion what would i fill with?
 
O

Old Mod

Certainly don't use tubbed adhesive.
A flexible slow set powder mixed with water.
If you end up with rapid set for any reason, just mix small quantities at a time.
Well as long as u are overboarding with the 6mm Hardie, just leave the joint in the ply clear, cos you would tape and joint the Hardie.
Stagger your joints in both layers so none of them run together.
Better to run ply one way, and Hardie perpendicular to them.
Stick the Hardie to the ply with same floor adhesive as tiles then screw the Hardie in the pre marked places.
Use a good quality self countersinking screw, not Hardie screws.
Tape joints and fill with adhesive.
 
I

Italy

Certainly don't use tubbed adhesive.
A flexible slow set powder mixed with water.
If you end up with rapid set for any reason, just mix small quantities at a time.
Well as long as u are overboarding with the 6mm Hardie, just leave the joint in the ply clear, cos you would tape and joint the Hardie.
Stagger your joints in both layers so none of them run together.
Better to run ply one way, and Hardie perpendicular to them.
Stick the Hardie to the ply with same floor adhesive as tiles then screw the Hardie in the pre marked places.
Use a good quality self countersinking screw, not Hardie screws.
Tape joints and fill with adhesive.
think
thinking-023.GIF
 
A

assegayer

Certainly don't use tubbed adhesive.
A flexible slow set powder mixed with water.
If you end up with rapid set for any reason, just mix small quantities at a time.
Well as long as u are overboarding with the 6mm Hardie, just leave the joint in the ply clear, cos you would tape and joint the Hardie.
Stagger your joints in both layers so none of them run together.
Better to run ply one way, and Hardie perpendicular to them.
Stick the Hardie to the ply with same floor adhesive as tiles then screw the Hardie in the pre marked places.
Use a good quality self countersinking screw, not Hardie screws.
Tape joints and fill with adhesive.

okay so the boards are now nicely repaired and 6mm hardie backed, however i have another room thats just plain cement and i want to lay some natural stone tiles there, do i really need a decoupling mat or would flexible addy be enough...even when i try to look where to buy some mat i cant find a shop they all seem to jsut be online.
 

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