Hi everyone. First time poster and tile diy. Thanks in advance for any and all help, tidbits, and words of wisdom on my project.
I'm renovating an original 1957 bathroom in west Hartford ct.
In order to place hardiebacker / cement board properly juuuust over the lip, I have had to add 1/4-3/8 shims all over the studs.
Anyways, the shower head area and the wall next to it are good for a cement board installation. The studs there will only require some shimming as noted above.
However, here is the situation I'm faced with now
The last wall needed to be cement boarded is the back wall. There, the tub sits almost twice as far forward as it did on the first two walls. So I would have to shim out a good 1/2 inch or more to make it even sit ON TOP of the lip, (although prefer the proper over the lip method)
So shimming it out a bunch is fine. I'll get it level and put it where I want. But, unlike the other wall sections, this is the only wall that will then extend into the rest of my bathroom's wall It will extend into a dry area / drywall, which is set on regular sheetrock. Ideally I want a smooth transition from backer board to existing sheet rock (unless I have to remove it and start fresh).
Finally the question:
Do I shim the tub to where I want, finish the tile in the wet area/cement board area , then be okay with a little indent into the sheet rock? Like a 1/4-3/4 inward dentation.
Or..
Do I take apart the window trim and get rid of the dry wall, then when everything is out/walls are bare, shim everything (all the way to the door), then once everything is shimmed out, put the hardiebacker and drywall together at the new depth with a nice transition, then put the window trin back on?
Do I try to create a sloping angle into the half in drywall ? (My wife's idea but that scares the crap put of me)
Or....something else?
Pictures attached
thanks to all helpers!
I'm renovating an original 1957 bathroom in west Hartford ct.
In order to place hardiebacker / cement board properly juuuust over the lip, I have had to add 1/4-3/8 shims all over the studs.
Anyways, the shower head area and the wall next to it are good for a cement board installation. The studs there will only require some shimming as noted above.
However, here is the situation I'm faced with now
The last wall needed to be cement boarded is the back wall. There, the tub sits almost twice as far forward as it did on the first two walls. So I would have to shim out a good 1/2 inch or more to make it even sit ON TOP of the lip, (although prefer the proper over the lip method)
So shimming it out a bunch is fine. I'll get it level and put it where I want. But, unlike the other wall sections, this is the only wall that will then extend into the rest of my bathroom's wall It will extend into a dry area / drywall, which is set on regular sheetrock. Ideally I want a smooth transition from backer board to existing sheet rock (unless I have to remove it and start fresh).
Finally the question:
Do I shim the tub to where I want, finish the tile in the wet area/cement board area , then be okay with a little indent into the sheet rock? Like a 1/4-3/4 inward dentation.
Or..
Do I take apart the window trim and get rid of the dry wall, then when everything is out/walls are bare, shim everything (all the way to the door), then once everything is shimmed out, put the hardiebacker and drywall together at the new depth with a nice transition, then put the window trin back on?
Do I try to create a sloping angle into the half in drywall ? (My wife's idea but that scares the crap put of me)
Or....something else?
Pictures attached
thanks to all helpers!
