Preparation Grout For A Wetroom? - TilersForums.com

[Andehh]

A year ago I had a wetroom installed, I was told I could use it within 24 hours of it being completed. Unfortunately the plumber didn't brace the tray properly so within a couple of weeks of using it the grout cracked and the tiles came loose. Nothing adhered to the tray, so 100% adhesive was on the back of the tiles - I presume due to grout failing, then hot water soaking through the yet-cured tile adhesive. Plumber & tiler were never heard of again!

Over several weeks worth of evenings I ended up taking down the ceiling down below it, braced it properly and relaid the tiles with S2 flexible adhesive. I then grouted it with a mixture of grout & this flexible grout additive. Meant to mix it with water, but I figured I'd give it a go without for maximum water proof/flexibility.

Needless to say, I made a mess of grouting it - probably due to not following the instructions on the additive. In short the grout mixture settled too far into the channels and sort of shrank leaving lots of air bubble holes on the surface(!?). I bodged it by filling it with more 'grout mixture' to flush it with the tiles, then left it.

A year later I want to tidy it up and do it properly. The overall room works fine *touchwood* with the tiles secure, grout in place, no cracks or leaks but the grout lines look really messy.

However....I do want to make sure I don't make a mess of it second time. Now, I want to ensure it stays 100% water tight & allows some movement due to the ultra flexible S2 Tile Adhesive - so want to try and avoid a standard grout which allows water/dirt penetration.

What would people advise?

1) Standard grout & water....then seal it with a grout sealer

2) Grout, water & grouting additive to give it flexibility & then seal it to be safe (my currently preferred route!)

3) some form of Epoxy Grout?

Any other suggestions?

Thanks guys

 

[Chalker]

Epoxy is best, but I use Webber in wet rooms. It sets very hard and does not seem to absorb much water.
Hopefully you tray was tanked?

 

[Andehh]

Thanks, yeah I tanked the room myself following the instructions to the letter, then doubling up on everything.

The Base is also a preformed plastic tray, though the drain is siliconed in so water would get trapped.

The UFH does dry it all out very quickly though.

I have heard mixed things with epoxy, especially the difficulty in laying them?

Is there much difference between epoxy and heavily additive grout (ie additive 2:1 with water) from a water resistance point of view, especially if I sealed the grout afterwards?

 

[ExplodingPudding]

ALWAYS follow the manufacturers instructions. No matter how much of a PITA it is. Are you hard water or soft water? That also makes a difference. I can't recommend my Swimming Pool Grout as soft water chemicals eat it for breakfast but in London it's fine for example. So double check that with an intelligent and reputable salesperson or company rep.

That aside, I would recommend Bal Micromax2 (expensive yet extremely reliable and comes with a guarantee) or Bal Wide Joint ( flexible if Porcelain is used ). MM2 has an anti-fungal property and is good from 1mm - 20mm whereas the WJ varies slightly with no anti-fungal.

 

[Andehh]

Thanks mate, I will give Bal a ring before I buy/start anything and see what they advise. I will also pick up some epoxy to have a trial run first. I am all for having fail safes for my fail safes so despite the tanking I still want the 'A surface' Tiles/grout to be as water proof as possible.