Chattering cuts on porcelain - Tile Advice

[hfj]

Hello. Dipping toe into tiling after my so-called 'professional' tiler made such a mess of my wetroom that I'll have to rip it all out and start again.

So, am cutting large format (600x600) porcelain tiles. 8mm thick. Using a Rubi dw-200-lp wet cutter with new Marcrist CK850 blade. Used the cutter to do some adjustments to some granite, and it worked lovely. Nice sharp edges.

Now cutting these porcelain tiles. The blade isn't giving me clean cuts. Following lots of 'net advice, I've put cardboard between table and tile. I'm using duct tape firmly stuck down along the cut. I'm going very very slowly when cutting. Tried scribing the line first but these tiles are damned hard! But the edges of the tiles still nick. The blade sounds and feels like its chattering when cutting.

Is this normal for these tiles? Or is there another trick I'm missing?

 

[On one]

You could check if the blade is securely fastened or is possibly warped

 

[hfj]

Hi. Blade is firm and not warped. It cuts granite beautifully. It just seems to chatter a bit going through the top of the porcelain tile.

 

[Qwerty]

The ck850 is a segmented rim blade. Have you tried a continuous rim blade?

 

[One Day]

As above, the 850 is really a dry use blade, so a good quality continuous rim blade with plenty of water, will cut cleaner.
Other probable causes:
- Rubi quality is not what it once was. If there is any wobble on the saw spindle, this can translate into excessive wobble on the cutting edge, and chips on porcelain which may not show on stone.
- 8mm thick porcelain. Seems like the thickness I would see from B&Q etc.
Not saying it is, but lower grade porcelain doesn't always play nice when cutting.

If you really must get a very clean cut using what you have, then I suggest the following: Scribe a line using your rail cutter, then put the tile through the wet saw, cutting no more than 2mm up to the scribed line, on your scrap side.
You should see the chips stay away from the good side. It will leave a messy edge but then you can pass the tile carefully through again, to straighten the edge up.
Sometimes this will work well.

 

[Old Mod]

Changing materials with the same blade always causes issues.
A turbo blade will invariably chip a porcelain tile, especially polished.
As Imp & Geoff above, the cleanest cut will probably be achieved with a continuous rim.
You're not missing a trick, you're missing the correct blade.
And to be honest the ck 850 is not a great blade.

 

[hfj]

Hmm. Ok so when the marketing bumpf said the CK850 was good for porcelain, it wasn't? I'll try a continuous blade in that case. Any recommendations? Is ATS porcelain one good? Thanks for the feedback!

 

[One Day]

I only really dry cut porcelain and I use a montolit DNA most of the time.
My only continuous rim is in a Dewalt DW2400.
Get the best you can, normally you get what you pay for.
Also, please be aware that it can take several cuts before you "open up" the matrix and expose enough diamonds for a really good cut.
Few blades work 100% right out of the box.

 

[Old Mod]

Blades are a minefield tbh, I don't even know what's really available for your size machine.
Everything I do now is with a grinder pretty much.
But dna's are good blades.

 

[Qwerty]

Something like this is ideal....

Marcrist CK750 200mm x 25.4/30.0 Diamond Blade 1125.1200.30 | Buy Marcrist CK750 Long Life Premium Range Online from Pro Tiler Tools - http://www.*******************/marcrist-ck750-long-life-premium-range/33920/marcrist-ck750-200mm-x-254-300-diamond-blade-1125120030

ATS also sell excellent cont rim 200mm blades

 

[hfj]

Ok, seems I was '100' out on the Marcrist blade then. Thanks everyone ... will get a smooth blade and then continue with the tiling.