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Fixing sink to tiled stud wall
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[QUOTE="Deleted member 1779, post: 228983"] On my bathroom projects I [U]throw away[/U] the supplied fixings. Then use [COLOR=DimGray][B]M8 COACH BOLTS[/B][/COLOR] to get maximum strength. [IMG]http://www.365drills.com/jpgs/coach_bolt.jpg[/IMG] Sinks are bloody heavy and rather than place a loading on the tiles I drilled holes into a fixed baton and then fitted the threaded bar though the holes. Then tightened at the back with NYLOCK nuts. Plaster boarded over the top. Drilled 16mm plugs out of the tiles and then fitted over the coach bolts. [IMG]http://www.365drills.com/jpgs/sink5.jpg[/IMG] [COLOR=DimGray][B]Holes are drilled as 16mm plugs to slip over the coach bolts. [COLOR=DarkSlateGray]Result:[/COLOR] [/B][/COLOR] [COLOR=Blue][B]PROJECT ONE[/B][/COLOR] [IMG]http://www.365drills.com/jpgs/sink1.jpg[/IMG] The coach bolts (above) are fixed with two nuts. One to hold the sink against the tiles via a washer. The next nut holds the tensioner for the hanging half pedestal. Its a lot of weight to hold onto tiles so M8 Stainless steel nuts and bolts are used. [COLOR=Blue][B]PROJECT TWO[/B][/COLOR] [IMG]http://www.365drills.com/jpgs/sink2.jpg[/IMG] [COLOR=DimGray][B]Even this sink has a solid bolting system[/B][/COLOR]. ([COLOR=DarkRed]note to self - should have used Nylock here)[/COLOR] Tip - Dont over tighten nuts when fixing until you are sure everything has settled like tile adhesive. [B]Its the wooden beam behind the tiles and plasterboard that should be taking the weight of the china, the pedestal, the taps and of course the water. [/B] [IMG]http://www.365drills.com/jpgs/sink3.jpg[/IMG] Sinks can be bloody heavy! - And expensive.... [IMG]http://www.365drills.com/jpgs/sink4.jpg[/IMG] If you drop them / break them / crack or chip them during installation then its unahappy customer time. Even the accessories can add to the dead weight. [/QUOTE]
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Fixing sink to tiled stud wall
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