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Discuss Outdoor Tiling | Tiling outdoors in the UK Tiling Forum | Tiling Advice area at TilersForums. USA and UK Tiling Forum

Kyle Knowles

TF
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I gave a step to tile it's 6ft x 6ft with to steps up to the main platform it's brick build then backfilled with concrete would it be acceptable to use something like kerdi membrane to cover the whole thing or even the old homelux wetroom fabric or sold I just go ditra drain or similar? ? The area has plenty of fall so I'm not sorted about the water standing for to long also would it be advised to dig a gully round the stop and fit a grate/economic drain to stop the structure being saturated from ground level ?
Sorry if that's not clear I'm cooking tea feeding a 6 month old and entertaining a 4 year old lol
 
J

John2

Hi,

We are building a garden wall using class B engineering brick and looking to tile directly to the brick wall for the finishing. Prefer tile than stone or plastering for ease of maintenance.

Can you suggest the best adhesive to use and if there are any surface preparations required to ensure the tiling (using porcelain tile) will last (without falling off at some point!!).

Thanks for the advice.
 
T

Tile Shop

It depends on how flat and level it is. You may need to render first if the wall is out of line (get a 2m straight edge and if you can see any gaps or humps larger than 3mm).

If it is flat enough, check the porosity of the brick. Class B's tend to be quite dense so there may not be any need for priming, but if you put some water on and it soaks relatively quickly, a diluted (1:1) acrylic primer (like BAL APD or Ardex P51) will be enough. Leave to dry and tile with an S1 flexible adhesive (the one you go for will depend on the type of tile you use).

Other things to consider:

1. If you are tiling above 3m high, you will need mechanical fixings. (hooks screwed into the wall that the tiles hang off, used as an addition to tile adhesive, not instead of.)

2. Don't be scared of using natural stone such as slate or limestone. [in my own personal opinion] It will look better than a porcelain imitation. Once installed and sealed correctly, they will need very little in the way of ongoing maintenance, apart from checking the sealer every 12 months and applying a further coat if required.

3. Vertical and horizontal movement joints will be needed every 3-4 metres but its recommended to reduce this to every 2m if using a dark stone or tile that will be in direct sunlight as it will attract extra heat, thus causing additional expansion (if this is the case, its also advisable to adjust your adhesive to an S2 flexible).

4. If it is a retaining wall, some form of moisture block or damp proof will be needed on the back if there is not one already present in the structure. This will be to prevent sulphates in the soil being carried through by water or rainfall, to the adhesive. If it does get through, it will slowly start to break the adhesive down, gradually reducing the bond strength, until *pop*, it gives up completely.

But other than that, should be fine :)
 
O

Old Mod

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J

John2

Thanks Paul.

Very helpful. The wall is pretty level (30-60 cm height x 2-3 m long).

We are using porcelain tile (10mm) what brand of s1/2 adhesive would you recommend?

Unfortunately we have not put in a damp proof on the back of the brick which has been filled with soil! The brick's water absorption level is less than 7%. Would this still be problematic for sulphates?
 
T

Tile Shop

Thanks Paul.

Very helpful. The wall is pretty level (30-60 cm height x 2-3 m long).

We are using porcelain tile (10mm) what brand of s1/2 adhesive would you recommend?

Unfortunately we have not put in a damp proof on the back of the brick which has been filled with soil! The brick's water absorption level is less than 7%. Would this still be problematic for sulphates?

The 3 most popular choices of adhesives among tilers on here are Mapei, Weber and Tilemaster. With porcelain, you will be fine using a slow setting adhesive so something like Keraflex S1, Weberset SPF or TM Standard Setaflex (rapid setting versions of each are available)

Now, about your sulphates...... yes they could be a problem. Unless you are prepared to dig the soil out, wash and dry out the wall and put some form of tanking, there are no guarantees. Without it, you'll be lucky if you get 2 successful years out of your adhesive. Maybe 3 if you add some extra polymer to the mix.

There are some DPM's but neither Ardex or Mapei are able to offer a confident answer to whether they work for a wall situation, so at your own risk if you want to attempt it.

Now, although its not designed for this, but I can see no reason why this would not work, my "idea" is to use Marmox 6mm Multiboard (suitable for external use), screwed to the wall at 150 to 200mm intervals using their fixings and washers, tape the joints with the Marmox waterproof tape, tape over the washers too and that has a 90% chance of surviving beyond the 2 years as it will repel moisture from both directions.

At that short height all this probably sounds overkill, but its the only way I can see it having half a chance.
 

Bond

TF
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Regarding the sulphate problem, you could apply (by brush) an anti-sulphate solution, to the mortar lines, to prevent the migration of sulphates to the surface, and therefore prevent sulphate damage to the adhesive.
 
S

space refurbs

Hi all, got a job in London W14 for an experienced Victorian Tiler.

The finish will be black and white.

The existing steps on the main pathway are solid with no cracks.

The area is approx 1.5m x 4m

There are also 9 stairs that adjoin the main pathway but go down to a basement flat. These will need some repairs and then need to be tiled also (same tiles).
Please include all materials (including tiles) and labour and price each area separately ( as different clients need to approve costs).

IMG_3502.jpg IMG_3501.jpg
 
F

Flintstone

Thanks for posting your job! It’s not the ideal time to be tiling outdoors

@3_fall is this job in your catchment ?
 
O

Old Mod

Thanks for posting your job! It’s not the ideal time to be tiling outdoors

@3_fall is this job in your catchment ?

It is Andy, and I appreciate the mention, thank you.
However, my current commitments carry me comfortably in to next year, and that notwithstanding, I don’t think I can cut them with my Kera Cut. :D

I think @timeless john is probably better suited than I presently. :)
 

Filip

TF
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I will be tiling an outdoor area, although outdoors it has a roof and 3 sides. The area is higher than the joining slabs with a slope which is on the the open side so it does get rain sometimes blown in onto it, also when being in the garden would have wet feet so it needs to be slip proof. The width is about 5 inches - see pictures. I will be tiling with a light grey colour tile and was thinking of an aluminium ribbed 5 inch wide profile. Any other ideas. And can I stick such a profile with the tile ady after a good going over on the back of the aluminium with an angle grinder.

P10073.jpg P10874.jpg
 
W

WetSaw

Can you not take it up and make it the same level as the rest? If not, cut it back so it's in line with the post to the left and have a step. A slope outside the door maybe a bit of a hazard.
 

Filip

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Thanks. we have had it like that for 19 years with the slope I used to paint it but have got fed up with re doing it so although the slope has been painted I think it has spent most of its time as bare concrete that is not slippy. Would like to keep as a slope.
Taking up the whole 2.7x2.7 area concrete is NOT to happen :eek::D.
I can find stair nosing's but not 2.7m long or 5 inch wide.
I am thinking maybe find some sheets of ribbed aluminium and cut them to the same width as the tiles - say 450mm then 5 inch deep and lay them on the slope as a tile, at least that way I sort of wont have joins with 3 lengths of too short stair nosing.
 
L

Lesley Green

New member here. I have a cat cabin and a run which is exposed to the weather. I want to put floor tiles down soon but not sure which type of tile is suitable. They will need to put up with summer heat/sun and also freezing cold in winter.
I see that outdoor tiles tend to be very thick and I don't have much room under the doors.
Any ideas which type of tile to use? I am worried about them cracking or breaking. Photo of cat house attached. Thank you in advance.

IMG_0001.JPG
 
L

Lesley Green

Hi and thank you for the advice. I will have a look at that site. Glad I don't have to buy the outdoor type of tiles then.
 
L

Lesley Green

Hi and thank you for the replies. I wasn't sure which thickness of tile to buy so you reckon a minimum of 10mm should be OK then? Hah, hah, the cats are better looked after then me. The cat house is actually two. Stud house on the right and a spare on the left. No underfloor heating. That would be a complete waste on money as the run is exposed to the weather. The cabin could have been done of course, but there is a heater in there for the winter. Also a heated bed.
 
L

Lesley Green

Well they are sometimes not too happy, hah, hah. No, they are traditional Siamese.
I am now thinking that luxury vinyl tiles might be suitable. Any thoughts on those please? More expensive than the other tiles but won't crack or break.

Val Sutton's.JPG
 
L

Lesley Green

Nope, luxury vinyl tiles are are out. I have been told they will not stand up to extreme heat or weather. They are meant for indoor floors only. Looks like a trip to a tile shop for some porcelain tiles.
 
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Recently installed outdoor porcelain tiles (Quarziti 2.0) over a gravel/sand base using sand instead of grout between the tiles; and several of the tiles have a crunching sound when walking on them. Have tapped them all in and put weight on them, but some just still making noise. Does this work itself out or do i need to reinstall (perhaps thicker base?).

Thanks In Advance!
 
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You need a solid base - it’s not like laying paving slabs!

But the website for the product says: Outdoor porcelain pavers can be dry laid onto grass, gravel, dirt and sand - or onto terraces and roofs using raised supports - without grout, adhesives or specialized workers, making installation incredibly easy.

 

Dan

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Laid on grass?!?!?!? WTF!!!!
Lmao

Those suppliers need change their advice and learn how to fit them themselves on grass see if they recommend that then!

(Note that this is a USA member and supplier so respondents need to perhaps consider that when advising, not that much can be done now?!)
 
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