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Discuss Tiling concrete floor and UF heating in the Tiling Forum area at TilersForums.co.uk.

  1. Steve01

    Steve01 Active Member

    Location:
    London
    Hi all

    I am new to the forums and looking to get my kitchen diner floor tiled which is approx 30sqm

    The tiler is proposing following
    1. Self level floor as old tiles were taken up and some of the adhesive is still present and not flat floor - Is this needed or can insulation boards just be applied with adhesive which will cover imperfections
    2. Apply XPS insulation boards with keraquick adhesive - does he need to prime the concrete subfloor first after self levelling before putting down insulation boards if so which primer ?
    3. Lay electric underfloor heating mat on insulation board - again do you just apply the primer that comes with the mat to the insulation boards and electric mat before tiling
    4. Use keraquick to fix tiles to mat and insulation board - at this stage is self levelling latex recommended on top of the mat before laying down the tiles ?
    5. Grout and polish tiles

    Any other advice appreciated to ensure he is doing the right thing - large area and big investment so want to ensure it is right

    Thanks
     
  2. hmtiling

    hmtiling Trusted Advisor Professional Tiler JOTM Winner

    Location:
    Isle of Wight
    Prime, slc, prime, thermal boards, prime, ufh, slc, prime and tile. Use a primer same brand as adhesive
     
    • Agree Agree x 3
  3. Steve01

    Steve01 Active Member

    Location:
    London
    Thanks

    I am using keraquick do assume I need mapei primer g

    Also do I need to self level after putting down ufh as dont have much height to work with or can good layer of adhesive covering cables work ?
     
  4. Localtiler

    Localtiler Trusted Advisor Professional Tiler JOTM Winner Top Contributor

    Location:
    Yorkshire
    Steve, why are you questioning his methods? Do you have confidence in him and have you checked out his credentials ?
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  5. Steve01

    Steve01 Active Member

    Location:
    London
    Yes he is qualified but never used him before - just when I am spending £5000 I want to ensure job done properly so like to do my research
     
  6. Ajax123

    Ajax123 Tilers Forums Pro - Screed Advisor Trusted Advisor Professional Tiler

    Location:
    Lincolnshire
    Is this another "wow that's more expensive than I thought" posts. If the tiler has recommended that works be done they probably need doing and in turn paying for. You should be pleased his methods are robust. I would be more concerned if he were asking some of the questions you have asked. Let's say for instance someone here says the floor does not need priming. You tell the tiler, the tiler either walks away or doesn't prime. That becomes your spec and morally your responsibility of it goes wrong. If you don't trust his recommendations don't use him. If you do trust his recommendations don't question them.... grrr! I must be in a bad mood... grrr!
     
    • Agree Agree x 5
    • Like Like x 1
  7. jcrtiling

    jcrtiling Trusted Advisor Professional Tiler TTA Member Top Contributor

    Location:
    Salisbury
  8. Localtiler

    Localtiler Trusted Advisor Professional Tiler JOTM Winner Top Contributor

    Location:
    Yorkshire
    I'm a bit confused here steve, your first post is about a tiler and your second is about yourself doing the job...
     
  9. Adey1980

    Adey1980 Trusted Advisor Professional Tiler Top Contributor

    Location:
    Caerphilly
    Same here?
     
  10. Steve01

    Steve01 Active Member

    Location:
    London
    Hi Thanks for the replies

    Firstly I am definitely not doing this myself its too big a project - I have done a smaller area myself before though and did all the research hence wanting to ensure the tiler takes the right approach

    When I say 'I' it refers to getting the work done on my property

    @Ajax123@Ajax123 the cost does not worry me - I am the one that has insisted we do everything- insulation boards prime at every stage slc etc and so money is not an issue but want the job done properly

    I asked 4 quotes from checkatrade which were similar and went with the one that seemed like he would take his time and do a good job

    it was interesting to see what different tilers said and hence the confusion also not many tilers were comfortable with the UF heating or had a consistent view on what needed doing

    some said SL on top of old tiles. some said no insulation boards needed and some said that don't need to self level on top of the UF heating hence the initial post to all you experienced tilers out there for some help - sorry but I thought that what this forum was for - for tilers but also homeowners like me to ensure we get the right people for the job and some independent QA on what they are doing

    Anyway really appreciate the advice and as @hmtiling@hmtiling says the right approach is as he has outlined from what research has told me

    so the work has started and the following has been done by the tiler:
    1. old tiles taken up - approx 30sqm this left lots of lit bits of glue and tile so it wasn't a perfect surface
    2. the floor was primed
    3. the tiler was happy to put the 6mm XPS board down on there using the adhesive to level as he went rather than slc first
    4. once the board was down he primed on top again using the UF thermal primer - I noticed some of the insulation board not completely stuck down in the evening and so asked him to go over where it was not done properly - yes that did ring alarm bells
    5. after that he self levelled using mapei ultra plan - he ran out of that and used another universal SLC (which says it is suitable for UFH according to the package which I ensure I checked ) to top up the non UFH mat areas and some of that was probably used on the mat to finish off as far as I can see
    6. THE SLC has been drying for 3 days and still not 100% dry but hard in most places and still drying - I am told that due to the large area and cold weather this could take a bit longer

    As it dries I have been checking over the area with the SLC and some areas seem hollow although not cracking - when I knock with my hand then some areas are solid and some are hollow like there are air pockets under the insulation board where it has not perhaps stuck to the concrete or there was not enough adhesive

    is this something to worry about - i.e tiling on top of the hollow areas OR will I need to get those areas smashed up and corrected - no doubt the mat would be damaged and would require almost restarting ?

    I did my research and hired someone who seemed to have the right credentials but am now a bit worried - I do pay attention to detail and have been checking work at every stage - its who I am - if I wasn't on site or left him to it I am sure all the tiles would be down now and I wouldn't know any different until perhaps I had issues in future

    I am sure I will get lots of advice on the type of tradesmen I should or shouldnt have got but would really appreciate some advice on what to do next primarily the concern is around the hollow sounds on the floor - it is hard and solid to walk on but as I said just hollow in some areas which I don't want to cause issues in future

    I will be getting 600 x 600 porcelain tiles fitted

    Many thanks in advance for your any advice
     
    • Like Like x 1
  11. Boggs

    Boggs Professional Tiler Top Contributor

    Location:
    Northamptonshire
    6. THE SLC has been drying for 3 days and still not 100% dry but hard in most places and still drying - I am told that due to the large area and cold weather this could take a bit longer

    3 days?!

    How thick was it?
    Is it open to the elements?

    I would think it should dry overnight.
     
    • Agree Agree x 3
  12. The Tiler

    The Tiler Active Member

    Location:
    Essex
    was the underside of the XPS boards primed?
    used to have to prime all faces of the blue XPS boards and let it dry before fixing
     
  13. Steve01

    Steve01 Active Member

    Location:
    London
    hi yes it was open to the elements for 2 nights as there was a door partly boarded and letting cold air in - also it was 10mm thick as it was quite an uneven floor
     
  14. Simon Dale

    Simon Dale Professional Tiler

    Location:
    Maidstone
    You can put 50mm down in one hit and it will dry by next day or even the same most SLC is rapid. Think to much water used.
     
    • Agree Agree x 2
  15. Boggs

    Boggs Professional Tiler Top Contributor

    Location:
    Northamptonshire
    The last slc I used was fast track and we were walking in it within the hour.
     
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