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ChrisSG

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Hi All,

New to the forum but not new to DIY...

Been reading a lot of posts on here recently to get some ideas on the best way to go about tile the bathroom in my new house. It's not going to be anything too complex - L-shape bath with shower, sink on counter top unit, toilet and tiled floor to ceiling on all four walls. I'll be taking the old plasterboard walls out with the tiles on for speed as they'll no doubt get damaged taking the tiles off anyway.

My main question is, how far do I go with waterproofing behind the tiles?
I've read lots about using Wedi, Jackoboard etc but that would work out pretty expensive if I was to replace all plasterboard with new plasterboard then whack Wedi boards over the top to waterproof the whole room. Think that would also be unnecessary as it's not a wet room.
I was thinking of using Hardibacker board instead of new plasterboard on all the walls as this can be tiled straight on to and is water-resistant (right?!). Then around the top of the bath and the shower area, using some thin (6mm?) Wedi (or equivalent) board on top of Hardiebacker to make sure this area is waterproof.

I find it quite confusing as there's a lot of conflicting advice out there especially when you factor in the cost of some of this stuff!

Any advice or confirmations on the above would be really appreciated. Might even post some pics when it's done so you can judge the work accordingly:laughing:

Thanks in advance,
Chris

P.S. Sorry if this is a repeat of other questions asked. Other threads I found led me to posting this though!
 
T

Tile Shop

My preference would be to stagger 12mm hardie around the whole room, either screwed to the studs, or a combination of https://www.tilersforums.com/forums/tile-adhesive/ and mechanical fixings to masonry. Alkaline resistant tape and https://www.tilersforums.com/forums/tile-adhesive/ over all the joints and then just tank the immediate wet area in the shower and part way over the bath and the other way (as far as the tanking kit will allow to be safe), with something like the Ardex WPC (Hardie is water resistant, not waterproof so tanking in wet areas is a must.)

You could go the Wedi type route. @Tile Fix Direct do a version called Orbry Board which is very reasonably priced. Could be worth weighing up against Hardie and see how it compares:
 
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ChrisSG

TF
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Just a quick one as I'm currently putting uo the MR PB. It's tapered edge board so is it advisable to tape and use jointing compound before tile, let that set then tile over as normal? Or can you use tile adheasive?

The tiles are quite big (600x300mm) but I dont want any weird voids behind them where the tapered edges are!


Thanks again,

Chris
 
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ChrisSG

TF
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Well, as promised, here are some pics. Had to unexpectedly put extra studs in too as the spacing was too wide according to Knauff's spec (even though it had worked up til now; rather be sure than the walls fall down).

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20190601_133751.jpg

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Started on the tile too but can't say it's enjoyable yet. We've gone brickbond pattern with 600x300 porcelain and that's fine but im struggling to get the tiles to stay flush with each other using 10mm notch and back buttering :persevere: Walls are mostly flat/not much variation in them either.

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Judge away!

Don't be too harsh though, this is the first big tile job I've undertaken!

Cheers, Chris
 

Boggs

TF
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Looks ok so far :)
Better prep than other jobs I have seen today.
Check the tiles for flatness by laying them face to face, if they are out you could try using levelling clips, like these
B5AA5441-AF02-4340-B6AE-EAADA675FFC5.jpeg

Cheap enough on eBay and should help a bit.
 
U

Unused Account 1

Cheaper tiles normally bowed so hard to do brickbond ,looked at a job today ,the client wanted brickbond,i showed him the bow in the tiles,and now back to stacked,brickbond bit old fashioned these days ,im doing more stacked ,bit more modern
 
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ChrisSG

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Quick update on this.

Bit the bullet and got a tiler in to finish the rest of the job off as I wasn't happy with the tile I was doing and also started to run out of time.

Anyway, to the point... The tiler I've got in comes recommended on the normal UK review websites (won't list them obvs) and is a member of The tile Association so all looks good there. Nice bloke too and the work he's done so far I'm really happy with... BUT he has been using BAL White Star Plus ready-mix adheasive to put the tiles up after priming any non-tanked walls (tiles are 9mm thick, Wickes (nothing too fancy), 600x300 tiles which are porcelain according to pack).
My worry is that the BAL data sheet says for that adheasive says no tiles (of any kind) bigger than 600x150.
Also, all I'd read was that cement based adheasive should be used for that tile type (which is what I'd used to do some tiles earlier before stopping).

I guess I'm looking for some sort of reassurance as this has got me stressed out. I have zero reasons to be concerned with his work other than that datasheet... I'm obviously going to speak to him about it when he's next in too!

P.S. It feels a bit late now anyway as the room is mostly done (bar last few rows and grouting etc).

Thanks in advance, Chris
 
T

Time's Ran Out

There will be trouble ahead!
Ready mixed no bigger than 30x30 and certainly not porcelain.
 

Tony_C

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He could possibly be using old buckets to mix his https://www.tilersforums.com/forums/tile-adhesive/ in. I have around 40 greenstar buckets from my old subbing days sat in a shed that i use for mixing daily, to someone just looking in they would be none the wiser. Unless you have an actual tub lying there in front of you that is
 

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