This will be a long tiling job !!! - Tile Advice

[Old Mod]

Are you sure its not just this . I think use raimondi but maybe same principal View attachment 99487

I don’t understand that Jerry, what point are you making?

 

[Dumbo]

I don’t understand that Jerry, what point are you making?

Unless im showing my normal level of ineptitude my understanding of the graph is to show the likelihood of a successful cut depending on cut size . So im thinking should they all be cut with grinder attachment .
I await your reply sir .

 

[Old Mod]

Unless im showing my normal level of ineptitude my understanding of the graph is to show the likelihood of a successful cut depending on cut size . So im thinking should they all be cut with grinder attachment .
I await your reply sir .

That’s showing probability of success depending on the thickness of the slab using the Kera Cut.
Simon uses a Raimondi Raizor, although they perform the same operation, they’re very different rail cutters.
For me, unless the product is faulty, you should be able to achieve a much higher success rate than 90% at 8mm. It’s definitely down to experience and technique. It’s not like using a regular slide cutter, they’re very different beasts.
Praps that’s why you can buy slide cutters for up to 2.4m slabs. Otherwise why build a slide cutter that long.
I have found 8mm not more difficult than the more common 6mm.
However, once you jump that last 2mm to 10mm and above, then all bets are off, and your success rate will definitely drop.
When I mean success rate, I don’t necessarily mean you’ll get more breakages, I mean your less likely to score and snap in one go, more likely they will snap off line and you’ll need to tidy it up with a grinder. As long as the piece you need is the bigger piece.
It’s also surprisingly more difficult than may think to walk and maintain an even constant pressure on the carriage.
Different systems, although very similar, are very different. That’s probably why I’m already on my third cutter.
The lack of opportunity to trial these rail cutters is a big problem, they’re actually very personal I think, and it takes several weeks of constant use to know which suits you best.
But it’s probably just me and my anal approach to tools.

 

[Dumbo]

That’s showing probability of success depending on the thickness of the slab using the Kera Cut.
Simon uses a Raimondi Raizor, although they perform the same operation, they’re very different rail cutters.
For me, unless the product is faulty, you should be able to achieve a much higher success rate than 90% at 8mm. It’s definitely down to experience and technique. It’s not like using a regular slide cutter, they’re very different beasts.
Praps that’s why you can buy slide cutters for up to 2.4m slabs. Otherwise why build a slide cutter that long.
I have found 8mm not more difficult than the more common 6mm.
However, once you jump that last 2mm to 10mm and above, then all bets are off, and your success rate will definitely drop.
When I mean success rate, I don’t necessarily mean you’ll get more breakages, I mean your less likely to score and snap in one go, more likely they will snap off line and you’ll need to tidy it up with a grinder. As long as the piece you need is the bigger piece.
It’s also surprisingly more difficult than may think to walk and maintain an even constant pressure on the carriage.
Different systems, although very similar, are very different. That’s probably why I’m already on my third cutter.
The lack of opportunity to trial these rail cutters is a big problem, they’re actually very personal I think, and it takes several weeks of constant use to know which suits you best.
But it’s probably just me and my anal approach to tools.

Horses for courses . When i got my 3e3m that was a risk coming from rubi . But you are investing much larger amounts .

 

[Bill]

What are the chances of them breaking using a rail guided angle grinder? (or a plunge type saw like the festool thingy)

 

[Old Mod]

When i got my 3e3m that was a risk coming from rubi . .

No it wasn’t

 

[Old Mod]

What are the chances of them breaking using a rail guided angle grinder? (or a plunge type saw like the festool thingy)

The major manufacturers all do rail guided grinder mechanisms.
Sigma have the Kera Flex.
Montolit have the flasline with a cutter similar to the rubi tc180 or the flex stone saw.
Raimondi have the Freecut with two grinder carriages, one for 90 degrees and one for mitres.
Raimondi also have the Raizor and the power Raizor.
They’re all quite different in their approach, although the Raimondi two are similar but different.
But using these attachments have different issues to a scribe and snap system, the biggest being quality of cut.
The thing with rail guided cuts is that they need to be wet cuts to get good quality, otherwise they tend to appear like they’ve been chewed rather than cut with a machine. Clean dry cuts with rail guided grinders is the holy grail.
Dry grinding free hand is far more successful but achieving a clean dry cut is still elusive.
That said it’s also very material dependant.
Highly polished, not a lot of hope.
Matt or honed, not so difficult.
And believe me when I say I’ve tried literally every blade on the market.
The only thing a rail guided grinder cut has over a freehand is a perfectly straight cut, but not necessarily cleaner.
Same old problem of the back of the blade coming back around and chipping the edge. It needs to slightly toe in, that can be achieved freehand but very difficult with a rail.
The cleanest cuts I’ve achieved have all been with a scribe and snap system.
But as you’ve seen in this thread, they have their own issues.
Breakages are inevitable, there is no getting away from it, all you can do is minimise the risk as much as you can.
All this material is imported, and there is no guarantee that it’s been handled correctly at every point of contact, and the handling is the most important factor of all.
You have to treat it like a 6mm mirror.
Oh and the Festool ‘thingy’ is not very well suited to the job, in case you were wondering.

But then I suppose it depends on how clean a cut you require, if all your cut edges are concealed, then it’s not a problem. Rail guided grinder works just fine, that’s if you can find a blade that won’t overheat over a cutting distance such as these. Cutting 600-900 isn’t so tough, but once you hit 1200 and above, keeping the blade cool suddenly becomes a far more important issue.
When I complained very loudly that the Kera Flex didn’t work well enough, I was told it’s not aimed at someone who requires perfect cuts, but at site workers who have to be more concerned about dust control than they do quality of cut!
So that’s when you have to get creative.
What was the question?

 

[Dumbo]

So angle grinder next to some 19 x 38 is the business then

 

[Simon Dale]

Not happy with this . Done by others TF!! Now have Pauly Mack to rectify

 

[Simon Dale]

Not happy with this . Done by others TF!! Now have Pauly Mack to rectify View attachment 99553 View attachment 99554

Yes Fa schifo

 

[Italy]

Not happy with this . Done by others TF!! Now have Pauly Mack to rectify View attachment 99553 View attachment 99554

I'm not a teacher, but this seems done with the shovel.

 

[Qwerty]

....And thats why I silicone all of my own work!

 

[Simon Dale]

Just finished all the tiling, then these arrive ! The crates not to be stacked

 

[LM]

Just finished all the tiling, then these arrive ! The crates not to be stacked View attachment 99579 View attachment 99580 View attachment 99581 View attachment 99582

At least you have the evidence as to why the tiles may be breaking on you Simon.

 

[Simon Dale]

Not posted for ages. @3_fall jumped in to install the 3.2s Too much for Katrina and myself