Discuss Shower surround substrate in the DIY Tiling Forum area at TilersForums. USA and UK Tiling Forum

Reaction score
21
Hey guys, I am retiling a shower, one of the walls is plasterboard and removing the old tiles has damaged it. I am planning to remove all the tiles and cut the plasterboard out.

Tiler has suggested using plasterboard as it will be tanked before the new tiles. New tiles won't be heavy etc so no need for cement boards.

Plumber* has said I'd be better to use ply/ marine ply?! As if there ever would be moisture near it,it would cope better than plasterboard.

I'm inclined to go with the plasterboard from reading on here. Also think it would be easier joined to the adjacent piece of plastered plasterboard. Cheaper .

Is this my best option of the two? For clarification purposes!
 
OP
S
Reaction score
21
When I replace the plasterboard I asume I tape the joint and use a bit of filler over to blend into the new piece. If the filler blends into where the tiles will be in asuming this isn't a big deal? Very little just to smooth it in before tiling
 
F

Flintstone

We all know what happens to wood when it gets wet or near humidity even, avoid! It's been abolished this year from british standards for wall tiling. Plaster board is fine and a bit of filler feather wont be an issue
 
OP
S
Reaction score
21
I'm thinking plasterboard for cost and ease of joining to the original but I know what you are saying about the cement board and will be using it on the next project!

For reference in that situation if I was going to use cement board joining to plasterboard do I just tape the joint and fill it the same as regular plasterboard ?
 
W

Waluigi

keep in mind the stud spacing of a foam board, often the spacing is down to 300mm on your vertical studs.
 
W

Waluigi

Ok, when you say cement board, generally people think you’re talking about Hardiebacker or Aquapanel etc. A foam board or XPS board is a lightweight foam board with cement coating on both sides, like Wedi, Marmox, Dukka etc.

Foam boards generally require more studs than the likes of the true rigid cement boards, especially when you’re dealing with boards that tend to be 600mm wide. Unless you increase the thickness of the board. For example a 12mm Wedi Board usually requires vertical studs @ 300mm centres whereas a 20mm Wedi Board will be fine with 600mm studs.
 
OP
S
Reaction score
21
Update! After the joiner not ringing me all week as promised to board my wall I threw the head up this morning, took s half day from work and went and bought wall hardie backer, tape and screws! Finally got the plasterboard down and new hardie backer up.

As it will be tanked what way does that work in conjunction with the Hardiebacker tape and adhesive over the joints?

So I need to get the tiles to tape and skim the joints and then come back to tank over the top?
 
OP
S
Reaction score
21
5D392246-131E-4D60-B9A1-8ED475878294.jpeg
 
W

Waluigi

Two choices- tape the joints with alkaline resistant tape and tile adhesive, tank the next day. Or tape and tank the joints with your tanking membrane.

Prime beforehand whatever you do.
 
OP
S
Reaction score
21
Can the tanking take the place of the Hardie tape and adhesive?

Ie skip that stage?

What is my best way forward with this? The 2 stages combined?
 
W

Waluigi

For me personally I’d use the alkaline tape and tile adhesive. This adds a bit more strength as there are no noggins placed horizontally between your HB boards.

I’d Really push the adhesive in too.

Then I’d probably just run my tanking tape in the internal corner abutment.

Up to you whether you tape and tank the HB joints too. Be wary of ridging
 
Last edited by a moderator:
OP
S
Reaction score
21
So the joints would be done to Hardie instructions and the just the tank painted over.

The tanking tape would only be used in the corners edges?

What is ridging? (Sorry!!)
 
W

Waluigi

Yes that’s correct. Ridging being a ridge built up on the joints if you tape them and then tank and tape them. For example, mosaics wouldn’t look great on that wall as you’d see a ridge!
 
OP
S
Reaction score
21
Ah I understand now!I think ill go with the tape n addy the Hardie joints n tank over but no tape and tape the edges!

Thanks for your help, it is really appreaciated
 
OP
S
Reaction score
21
When u say prime before hand whatever u do, I assume u mean the tanking primer?

The tape n addy joints don't need primed? As far as I am aware Hardie backer does not need primed?
 
W

Waluigi

Prime everything. Hardiebacker will definitely need priming despite what the instructions say. Let me guess- are you using the Mapei kit?
 

Reply to Shower surround substrate in the DIY Tiling Forum area at TilersForums.com

Or checkout our tile training advice or the Tile Standards

This website is hosted and managed by www.untoldmedia.co.uk. Creating content since 2001.

Replies you've not seen

UK Tiling Forum Stats

Threads
66,583
Messages
866,613
Members
9,500
Latest member
Dazzer
Top