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Discuss Removing old adhesive in the DIY Tiling Forum area at TilersForums.co.uk.

  1. Shooter999

    Shooter999 Active Member

    Location:
    Carmarthen
    Hi everyone,

    After a bit of advice (isn't everyone).

    We need to completely overhaul our upstairs ensuite bathroom.

    I've managed to remove all of the tiles and the old shower and enclosure.

    What's left is the adhesive on the flooring. It just doesn't want to come up (as can be seen from the pics).

    What are my options to get this in a fit state to begin tiling?

    A friend who is a builder mentioned putting down 6mm hardiebacker? If I were to do this, do I have to put some form of adhesive down to level the existing floor and to attach the hardiebacker to?

    Is the above the best option, or are there others?

    Thanks in advance for all replies.

    IMG_2065.JPG IMG_2066.JPG
     
  2. Plan Tec Tiling

    Plan Tec Tiling Administrator Staff Member Trusted Advisor Professional Tiler JOTM Winner Top Contributor

    Location:
    Wimborne, Dorset
    Use a 4" blade scraper and it will come up
     
  3. Shooter999

    Shooter999 Active Member

    Location:
    Carmarthen
    Thanks for the reply.

    So far I've tried an sds chisel bit, hammer and bolster, wood chisel and finally a screwdriver.

    Whilst I was having some success with the chisel and screwdriver, it still wasn't taking it all up, so I would have been left with an uneven floor?
     
  4. 3_fall

    3_fall Administrator. Staff Member Trusted Advisor Professional Tiler JOTM Winner Top Contributor

    Location:
    SW London
    Close bathroom door, open windows, wet the floor, get an angle grinder and a grinding cup, and you'll have it done in 30mins. Messy but effective.

    If you think that's bad, look what I walked in to this morning after builder messed floor up.
    IMG_9134.JPG IMG_9137.JPG IMG_9138.JPG

    Now that's what you call a tough job to get adhesive up! Haha
     
    • Like Like x 5
  5. 3_fall

    3_fall Administrator. Staff Member Trusted Advisor Professional Tiler JOTM Winner Top Contributor

    Location:
    SW London
    It happens to be 25m2 too! :(
     
  6. Plan Tec Tiling

    Plan Tec Tiling Administrator Staff Member Trusted Advisor Professional Tiler JOTM Winner Top Contributor

    Location:
    Wimborne, Dorset
    It shouldn't. Not if you scrape rather than hack at it
     
  7. pdc

    pdc Professional Tiler Top Contributor

    I'm surprised that failed with such good coverage:tearsofjoy:
    60754-1225b99c3bad2bbdb537465f7c5f22d1.jpg
     
    • Funny Funny x 2
  8. 3_fall

    3_fall Administrator. Staff Member Trusted Advisor Professional Tiler JOTM Winner Top Contributor

    Location:
    SW London
    Not bad Paul hey mate! :):thumbsup:
     
  9. Shooter999

    Shooter999 Active Member

    Location:
    Carmarthen
    Never used an angle grinder before, but I can borrow one off a mate.

    Can you recommend a grinder cup for the job?

    When you say wet the floor, how wet should it be?

    Thanks in advance.
     
  10. 3_fall

    3_fall Administrator. Staff Member Trusted Advisor Professional Tiler JOTM Winner Top Contributor

    Location:
    SW London
    Something like this:

    Grinding cup

    I can not stress enough how messy this is, tape up gap around door, wear MASK, EYE PROTECTION & GLOVES!
    Go tentively at first to see how much pressure to use, you WILL tear up the ply if you're too heavy handed!

    If you've never used a grinder I'd suggest you give Geoff's idea above a go first, soak the adhesive with water and use a bladed scraper, not a paint scraper.

    Bladed scraper
     
  11. Shooter999

    Shooter999 Active Member

    Location:
    Carmarthen
    Thanks for the prompt reply. I'll give the scraper a go first.

    Cheers.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  12. Localtiler

    Localtiler Professional Tiler Top Contributor

    Location:
    Yorkshire
    I would waste your time and effort scraping that off, it's chipboard so needs over boarding anyway. Check to make sure it's secure and not bouncing as those chip board floors often do. If it's ok, over board with hardi, use a suitable tile adhesive to stick it down, mix it thin ish, probably a 10mm trowel will easily sort out that then ofcourse screw it.

    @3_fall@3_fall any reason you can't just apply a thin layer of leveller ?
     
  13. Localtiler

    Localtiler Professional Tiler Top Contributor

    Location:
    Yorkshire
  14. Shooter999

    Shooter999 Active Member

    Location:
    Carmarthen
    Thanks for the reply. I've tried the scraper, and it's not making much of a dent.

    Was about to go and purchase the grinding cup.

    When you mention a thin layer of leveller, can you expand? Do you mean apply a thin layer to the adhesive that is already there, and then tile on top of this? If so can you recommend a leveller?

    The boards are fine, with no bounce in them.
     
  15. Localtiler

    Localtiler Professional Tiler Top Contributor

    Location:
    Yorkshire
    I was referring to 3_fall when i mentioned leveller, if you look at my photos, that is what I would do with your floor, stick the hardie straight over it with tile adhesive and a decent sized notch trowel
     
  16. Shooter999

    Shooter999 Active Member

    Location:
    Carmarthen
    Again, thanks for the reply.

    Is there any benefit to boarding it compared to grinding away the current adhesive (apart from less mess, although boarding will be more expensive).

    If I board it, it will reduce the clearance available between the bedroom and the bathroom.

    Thanks for all replies.
     
  17. Localtiler

    Localtiler Professional Tiler Top Contributor

    Location:
    Yorkshire
    You need to board it regardless, you should not tile onto chip board.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  18. Shooter999

    Shooter999 Active Member

    Location:
    Carmarthen
    Thanks for the information. I'm slightly confused!!

    If I grind all of the adhesive away, won't it be back to its original state, as it was when it was 1st tiled, where they would have tiled onto the boards? Or is this now considered bad practice?

    Are you recommending that there is no point in removing the existing adhesive and I should just hardiebacker the whole floor (on top of new adhesive).

    For information, the house was built in 2005.
     
  19. Localtiler

    Localtiler Professional Tiler Top Contributor

    Location:
    Yorkshire
    Some people do tile on to chip board but it's not advisable, nobody on here will advise it I don't think.
    That's what I would do, overboard with hardie over the floor as it is, no grinding. Just take any lumps or high bits off.
    What tiles are you using
     
  20. Shooter999

    Shooter999 Active Member

    Location:
    Carmarthen
    Again thanks for the reply.

    Apologies for all of the questions, I'm not questioning your advice (as you're a professional and im a complete novice!), I really appreciate the fact that you're taking the time and patience to reply to me, I'm just trying to gain an understanding.

    I was under the assumption (possibly mistakenly) that it was either remove the existing adhesive and then tile onto the existing floor or hardiebacker the floor as it is.

    However you're saying that if I followed the advice given above about the scraper and grinder cup, I would still need to hardiebacker the floor, but your method will mean less work for me.

    We'll be using porcelain tiles (although the wife hasn't picked them yet).

    Is there an adhesive and trowel you can recommend for laying the hardiebacker onto?
     
    • Like Like x 1
  21. Localtiler

    Localtiler Professional Tiler Top Contributor

    Location:
    Yorkshire
    No problem!
    Adhesive depends on what you can get locally, something reputable such as Mapei, tilemaster, or ultra, you want a rapid set flexible adhesive.
    Probably a 10mm x 10mm square notch trowel,
    Spread it as i have in the pic to an even bed, don't mix it stiff. I'm sure some one else will confirm
     
  22. 3_fall

    3_fall Administrator. Staff Member Trusted Advisor Professional Tiler JOTM Winner Top Contributor

    Location:
    SW London
    Yeah as long as you don't have height issues, then the easier way is to just overboard as Andy says.
     
  23. Shooter999

    Shooter999 Active Member

    Location:
    Carmarthen
    Thanks guys. When you say height issues, is that in relation to the clearance between the bathroom and the bedroom (which is carpeted)? How can I check this?

    Our current tiles are 10mm thick and approx 5mm adhesive, so 15mm in total. If don't grind the existing adhesive, I could end up with a depth of approx 30mm (existing adhesive 5mm, new adhesive 3mm, 6mm hardiebacker, 5mm adhesive, and 10mm tile.

    Does the above calculation make sense?
     
  24. Shooter999

    Shooter999 Active Member

    Location:
    Carmarthen
    Regarding the adhesive, will this do:

    Mapei Mapeker Rapid Set Tile Adhesive Grey 20kg | Wickes.co.uk - http://www.wickes.co.uk/Mapei-Mapeker-Rapid-Set-Tile-Adhesive-Grey-20kg/p/102976

    Think I need 6 bags (approx 30m2)

    Will I be able to use the above to:

    1. Attach hardiebacker to existing floor.
    2. Attach floor tiles to hardiebacker.
    3. Attach wall tiles to existing platerboard and new hardiebacker in shower enclosure?

    I'm a bit wary that some of the reviews say it sets very quickly. This will be my 1st tiling job and I would prefer something that gives me a bi more time to get the tiles on.
     
  25. Localtiler

    Localtiler Professional Tiler Top Contributor

    Location:
    Yorkshire
    It is suitable yes but yes it will last about 40 mins once mixed. They should do a slow set version that will last several hour in the bucket.
     
  26. Kyle Knowles

    Kyle Knowles Professional Tiler

    Location:
    Widnes
    PersonallyI'd use a grinder with a cup grinder attachment linked up to a vacuum
     
  27. detroitMi

    detroitMi Professional Tiler

    This is how it's done brother

    P1110959.JPG P1110960.JPG P1110961.JPG P1110962.JPG P1110963.JPG P1110964.JPG P1110965.JPG P1110966.JPG
     
  28. Kyle Knowles

    Kyle Knowles Professional Tiler

    Location:
    Widnes
  29. Shooter999

    Shooter999 Active Member

    Location:
    Carmarthen
    I've ordered a grinding cup and some masking tape to tape up the door.

    Will hopefully give it a go on the weekend. I'll report back to let you know how I got on!
     
    • Like Like x 1
  30. 3_fall

    3_fall Administrator. Staff Member Trusted Advisor Professional Tiler JOTM Winner Top Contributor

    Location:
    SW London
    Don't buy rapid set adhesive, you will invariably throw away more than you use, especially as a first timer.
    It has no place in wall tiling anyway, there are exceptions of course, but not in your case.
    You are aware that hardibacker is NOT waterproof aren't you?
    It has to be tanked before tiling.
    There are more efficient ways of building a shower cubicle.
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  31. Plan Tec Tiling

    Plan Tec Tiling Administrator Staff Member Trusted Advisor Professional Tiler JOTM Winner Top Contributor

    Location:
    Wimborne, Dorset
    Don't forget your mask!!!

    Mandatory_Dust_Mask.png
     
  32. Kyle Knowles

    Kyle Knowles Professional Tiler

    Location:
    Widnes
    And best not buy one of them £1 from screwfix u can get a pretty good 3M mask for about £30
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  33. Localtiler

    Localtiler Professional Tiler Top Contributor

    Location:
    Yorkshire
    Can somebody tell me what's the point in sanding this adhesive when he needs to over board it anyway ?
     
  34. 3_fall

    3_fall Administrator. Staff Member Trusted Advisor Professional Tiler JOTM Winner Top Contributor

    Location:
    SW London
    Depends on available heights Andrew, surely you've encountered that?
     
  35. 3_fall

    3_fall Administrator. Staff Member Trusted Advisor Professional Tiler JOTM Winner Top Contributor

    Location:
    SW London
    No, not at all.
    I just didn't really read the post correctly Andy, just took Geoff's lead and posted in the same vein. And I didn't realise the thread had got so long either haha just seen all these by you! Oooopsy! :D
    Thing is advising someone who's never undertaken things like latexing and building out with adhesives and so on, we have to assume they have the manual skills to perform such operations.
    Otherwise they're back complaining in 5 mins flat.
    So keeping things simple is sometimes wiser.
    Doesn't mean they shouldn't hear other options tho.
     
    • Like Like x 1
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