Planning a level access shower - Tile Advice

[Al Getaroundtuit]

Thanks for taking the time to explain.

 

[Waluigi]

The thought of cutting, shaping, handling and fixing 12mm Hardiebacker onto walls vs the ease of cutting, handling and fixing of a cement faced foam board- you’ll be thanking the people of the forum which will outweigh the hassle of returning the Hardiebacker.

 

[Al Getaroundtuit]

Only problem I can see is that the studs are 400 centres which is ok for Hardiebacker, but the other type boards appear to be 600 wide. So can I place them horizontally without fixing a load of extra noggins?

 

[Waluigi]

The boards won’t be supported properly when placed horizontally. I would pop some extra studs in and put some long boards in. I tend to use CLS. It’s straighter.

 

[Al Getaroundtuit]

Thanks for that Waluigi. Can these type of boards be dot and dabbed onto bare block work or will I need to plaster external walls first?

 

[Waluigi]

Absolutely they can- use tile adhesive and dot it on the board itself. Before doing that, drill a small hole through the board where each dot of adhesive will be as a reference point to drill, plug and screw once the adhesive has set.

 

[Al Getaroundtuit]

Thanks for the heads up. Looks like this will be the way forward for me.
Thanks to all

 

[Raccus]

The boards won’t be supported properly when placed horizontally. I would pop some extra studs in and put some long boards in. I tend to use CLS. It’s straighter.

What do you mean Waluigi, wont be supported properly when placed horizontally? Only because of the need for 30mm centers and he will have 40? But then he will need more studs anyway , even if placing vertically.

Also, for boarding stud work, the foam type boards should be minimum 20mm depth?

And then to clarify an earlier point for the enquirer, if you dot and dab the boards, then you need mechanical fixings as well, which is why Waluigi said about the drilling the holes where dabs will be etc. Dot and dab on its own, is not sufficient.