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Discuss Old question but still confused.... in the Adhesive and Grout area at TilersForums. USA and UK Tiling Forum

J

JimboD

Please checkout the following advertisement.
I’m tile a 90m2 area with 600x600 limestone tiles, 12mm thick.

The base is a poured screed (very level) which also contains the underfloor heating pipework.

I appreciate I need a 100% coverage with the https://www.tilersforums.com/forums/tile-adhesive/.

I appreciate that the round notched trowels give better coverage (primarily as they leave more https://www.tilersforums.com/forums/tile-adhesive/ on the floor)

From what I read, some folks state you need a 20mm round notch.

What I am confused with is the size of the notches required to achieve a solid bed. I watched a really interesting video that highlighted how what is more important is the orientation of the https://www.tilersforums.com/forums/tile-adhesive/ ridges and how having straight lines are important rather than having wavy lines – if you bed the tiles in by moving from side to side perpendicular to the ridge lines they close up and create a solid bed (and don’t if you have wavy lines or grooves running parallel to the bedding motion)

So, with this in mind, why does the bed need to be so deep? 20mm round ridges must compress down to about a 10mm bed so uses a huge amount of https://www.tilersforums.com/forums/tile-adhesive/.

In my situation, I have to ensure the tile bed is not too deep as they run up to a bifold door (ideally I need 3-4mm).

So, my question is… Why wouldn’t a 10mm round (or square) notch, with grooves laid perpendicular to the tile bedding movement suffice in creating 100% coverage (especially if back buttered)?

Second question…. In my mind, there seems to be a disconnect associated with the thickness of the bed that is left vs what people are claiming. The maths doesn’t make sense. For example, a 10mm notched trowel is claimed to leave a 3-4mm bed, but how is that possible? Imaging cutting the top 5mm off the top of each 10mm ridge and laying it in the 10mm deep groove next to it. You’d end up with a 5mm level base. So where does 3-4mm come from?

The rounded trowels leave more material behind so would be even deeper, say 6mm for a 10mm trowel.

Can anyone please help clarify things for me so I know what the best approach is.

It would be much appreciated!

Cheers
 
OP
J

JimboD

Aha! of course. makes perfect sense :)

So a 10mm rounded notch will give me the 3-4mm depth i am looking for but will i get 100% coverage? I'm hoping yes if i apply the straight line and perpendicular bedding motion. That video i eluded to was awesome - they bedded in clear glass tiles so you could see the impact on the grooves underneath and how they only close up properly if you use that technique.
 
OP
W

WetSaw

"Poured screed"? Anhydrite? How long has it been down? Has the UFH been commissioned? Anti fracture membrane being used? You've a lot more to concern yourself about besides the physics of https://www.tilersforums.com/forums/tile-adhesive/ depths!
 
OP
J

JimboD

I've tiles various floors in the past, so not too worried. But i am getting quotes for a pro to do it as well!
 
OP
O

One Day

You could use a 4mm mosaic trowel and achieve 100% coverage.
IF (big IF) the floor is perfectly flat and the back of your stone is like glass, and the https://www.tilersforums.com/forums/tile-adhesive/ has the correct consistency, and you trowel, back-skim and bed them perfectly.
I think guys shout about large notches because our floors are so bad, you have a better chance of good coverage.
Personally, I won't use more than a 12mm trowel on floors. If it's so bad I need a 20mm round notch, I would prefer to straighten the floor.
 
OP
J

JimboD

screed has been down 6+weeks. UFH being commissioned soon but wont tile until that has been ramped up/down etc. Wasnt going to use anti fracture membrane.
 
OP
J

JimboD

4mm might be pushing my luck. 10mm gives some wiggle room and as i now know, bed depth is 3-4mm which is fine
 
OP
O

One Day

You will really have to push and pull to get solid coverage, and make sure the https://www.tilersforums.com/forums/tile-adhesive/ is wet enough. And don't forget to back-skim!
 
OP
J

JimboD

Good to know. will look into membranes.I was going to leave a gap round all the edges to accommodate expansion and obviously use a flexible https://www.tilersforums.com/forums/tile-adhesive/, but didn't think lateral stress would then still be a factor.
 
OP
J

JimboD

Just looked into membranes on Impish's suggestion. A few rolls of durabase seems the best bet but adds 3mm to the depth. Hmmm, need to do come careful measurements tomorrow as i think 3mm membrane +4mm https://www.tilersforums.com/forums/tile-adhesive/ + 12mm tile might be too high for then being able to run the tiles flush into the bifold door edging strip.

Thanks everyone for the speedy replies!
 

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