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Mambo

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Please checkout the following advertisement.
Hi there..new to forum so not sure what to expect..

We are in the middle of completing an extension and I am going to complete the tile myself. It an open plan area circa. 65m2. I have done some smaller tile projects in the past but not with large format tiles. We are using 1200 x 200mm wood effect tiles. Floor screed was liquid cemfloor screed so appears pretty good.

Any advise or tips before I start.
 
T

Time's Ran Out

You should see if there is a forum member near you in Republic of Ireland, and contact them.
 
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Mambo

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I have tiles a few bathroom using 300 x 300m tile and 5mm grout line. However looming to use a 1mm grout line to enhance the timber effect. I am told lipping is a major issue with these longer tiles but I have inspected the time and they don't appeared to be bowed as I was warned about. I have done a lot of external paving so setting out and levelling etc is not foreign to me. However, I appreciate the accuracy for 1mm joint will be far greater. I was going for a random pattern with no more than 1/3 lap on tiles. I have never used the leveling clips but these seem a bit of a gimic to me. Nothing you shouldn't be able to do with a good long level and some patience.

I was thinking of investing in laser but again would like any advice
 
F

Flintstone

You cannot have 1mm spacers on that floor. How flat is the floor? When was the screed poured? How thick is the screed? Is it heated? What https://www.tilersforums.com/forums/tile-adhesive/ will you use ? What trowel will you use ? How will you cut the 1200 tile ? What will you prime the floor with?
 
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Mambo

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So local tiler..starting from the top..

I have seen numerous 1mm grout line sample in time shop and looked very well
Surveyed floor and it +/- 3mm
Screed poured 6 weeks again. Moisture content average 2.3%
Screed 65mm think on UFH which is fully commissioned.
Bal adhevise large format https://www.tilersforums.com/forums/tile-adhesive/
10mm toothed trowel for 6mm bed.
I have a Flexovit 200 wet saw which is fine for 100mm porcelain tiles.
Wasnt planing on using a primer. What would this achieve?
 
T

Time's Ran Out

65mts for a DIY job!
Or are you completing an extension for a client and your going to do the floor finish.
 
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Mambo

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No for myself...to be honest I have done most of the work myself..wouldnt make a living out of it but patience is a virtue..It has taken a lot longer than planned but very rewarding..
 
L

LM

Mambo, "bout ye!"
I'm hoping you disliked @Localtiler's post by mistake as everything he pointed out is vital to a successful instillation.
In this forum if you ask in the right way you'll get all the correct advice for FREE that you could possibly ever need, we are a very welcoming and helpful bunch!
Starting from the top as you put it.
1mm grout gap isn't enough on top of a heated screed, 2mm is stretching it. A tile display in a shop is a different beast altogether than your actual circumstances.
What if any expansion joints and where have you considered putting them?
+/-3mm floor is poor for a 1200mm plank tile, clips are a serious help to achieving a lip free floor.
By what means did you take the moisture reading?
If the floor is fully commissioned as per manufactures recommendations then be sure to follow BAL's instructions as to the correct procedure for tile on a screed with WUFH, don't be afraid to call their tech dept, here's their number 00441782591120.
A 10mm notch won't give you 6mm bed depth, flat skim the back of the tile and the trowel the floor in a single direction and your https://www.tilersforums.com/forums/tile-adhesive/ bed depth will be more like 2/3mm. Personally I'd go with a 12mm notch for that tile.
Your clipper won't be much good to you on these tiles except for small checks, you'd be better off with a decent manual cutter and an 115mm angle grinder with a good blade.
As for not seeing the point in primer, well where do I begin, is the screed a calcium/gypsum based product?
In what way did you hope a laser was going to aid you with this installation?
 
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Mambo

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Thanks Lee Mac for your helpful Post. I though I had pressed funny to Local tiles...so many button

Point noted on grout line as I hadnt considered the UFH. I would still like to keep this minimal as possible so 2mm sounds good. The are is actually 3 difference section with a spilt level between Kitchen and dinning are with both area approx 5m x 5m. I was intending to level a 5mm to 7mm gap at perimeter which will be cover with kitchen units or skirting depending on where is. Do you think this is enough.

Noted on bed depth. With the screed being the way it is I don't think a 2/3 mm bed will get me out. My concern with clips is that they would appear to work by pulling up the tile and away from https://www.tilersforums.com/forums/tile-adhesive/ which goes against normal thinking. I have tried cutting a fee sample tile with my clipper and it has no issues. I find it a great little tool. I will get a new blade for the grinder just in case.
The screed is a sand and cement based screed and I borrowed a mates laserline moisture reader. It cost him £250 so it's a pretty decent bit of kit. Do I need to prime a sand and cement screed ?.
 
L

LM

Thanks Lee Mac for your helpful Post. I though I had pressed funny to Local tiles...so many button

Point noted on grout line as I hadnt considered the UFH. I would still like to keep this minimal as possible so 2mm sounds good. The are is actually 3 difference section with a spilt level between Kitchen and dinning are with both area approx 5m x 5m. I was intending to level a 5mm to 7mm gap at perimeter which will be cover with kitchen units or skirting depending on where is. Do you think this is enough.

Noted on bed depth. With the screed being the way it is I don't think a 2/3 mm bed will get me out. My concern with clips is that they would appear to work by pulling up the tile and away from https://www.tilersforums.com/forums/tile-adhesive/ which goes against normal thinking. I have tried cutting a fee sample tile with my clipper and it has no issues. I find it a great little tool. I will get a new blade for the grinder just in case.
The screed is a sand and cement based screed and I borrowed a mates laserline moisture reader. It cost him £250 so it's a pretty decent bit of kit. Do I need to prime a sand and cement screed ?.
Normally you shouldn't unless it appears rather dusty/absorbent.
Priming never hurts, if it's dusty then a properly diluted acrylic primer would benefit you. Make sure to burn/key in the https://www.tilersforums.com/forums/tile-adhesive/ before final notching.
Those moisture readings taken from that device could only be considered as a rough guide to the status of the floor, but in this instance with a s/c screed and the time elapsed you'll be fine anyway.
If the floor is uneven then level it. You'll only be filling the dips with https://www.tilersforums.com/forums/tile-adhesive/ anyway and self leveller is the cheapest way to level a floor. Also it'll make the installation of the tiles quicker.
What clips have you tried?
If you back butter the tiles and use a 12mm notch the clips are a definite help in leaving a nice flat floor.
 

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