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I am currently doing a new build where the customer has bought some tiles from Porcelenasa.
They are 440mm x 660mm porcelain and are the hardest most evil tiles I have come across in 20 years of tile.
I bought a Rubi TX-900n from Dave at Trade tiler as my TS -60 wouldn't entertain them and even it won't cut them properly. I have lubricated the scoring wheel with the oil from a rubi maintenance kit, scored the tile a few times either end more than once, and they just break where they want to.
My next step was to buy one of those montolit blades for my mini grinder, now it does cut them but chips the edges like you would not believe.
My wet bed cutter was the same, chipped the edges etc.

I've tried scoring with the rubi, then using the montolit but that didn't work, tried putting tape on and cut through that but that didn't change anything either.
The cuts at the
top I can get away with, as the chipped edge is disguised with the grout - but it's when you come to doing the L shapes around the top and bottom of the windows that I'm struggling with.
I contacted Dave at trade tiler, explained everything to him and the method I was using with the Tx900n and he reassured me I was doing everything correct.

So has anyone else come across these, and if so how did you cut them with no chipping?
Thanks.
 
OP
M

mattle40

It did at first, I was only using a cheap ceramic and was using way too much force to scribe and break, it doesn't need much force at all. Ul be used to it in no time
 
OP
M

mattle40

Been using sigma for about 3 years but was a rubi user for 5 years before that,
I was converted after 10 minutes
 
OP
S

StevieBoy

First try some cardboard under the tile, also once scored move the tile an inch or two down the cutter before breaking because if you look the solid centre bit of the bed is away from the edge ive had this problem with my 750 mate thats my 2 pence
Update. I forgot to take a picture of the tile, but I have discovered that if I lubricate the scoring wheel when cutting every other tile and put the cardboard underneath - this method actually works.

Thanks Mr Tiler for that, only obstacle now is doing the L shaped cuts without chipping. Will have to get the stone out I guess.
 
OP
M

Mr Tiler

Update. I forgot to take a picture of the tile, but I have discovered that if I lubricate the scoring wheel when cutting every other tile and put the cardboard underneath - this method actually works.

Thanks Mr Tiler for that, only obstacle now is doing the L shaped cuts without chipping. Will have to get the stone out I guess.
Dont thank me buddy theres a guy on this site who told me that trick, cheers stef
 
OP
I

Italy

ok you are dealing with a high bake tile using cheap matirails total stress on the tile first you have to take out the stress the best way to do this is to core a 30 mm hole on the courner were your courner meets then scribe back to your core on the out side hole now grind out the shortest line on the inside of your scribe and then snap the long edge then grind out the remaining courner the times have been hard and a lot of tile manafators have cut cost this if the price we are now paying

I also do so, for chipping use http://www.sigmaitalia.com/diamond-tools/diamond-blades
72 D/E/F/G/

if the material to be cooked wrong, send an email to imola, as I did, you compensate time and equipment worn, google translated
 

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