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Discuss Advice on moisture resistant plasterboard in the Tanking and Wetrooms Forum area at TilersForums.co.uk.

  1. Dan17h

    Dan17h Active Member

    Location:
    Birmingham
    Hi guys,

    I'm in the process of redoing the bathroom. I've removed everything including tiles and found that the plaster is hollow and loose to the brick on 2 walls. So I'm gonna remove back to bare brick on these 2 walls, tank the plasterboard and attach to the walls.

    I just wanted some advice on a few things I'm unsure about to avoid any future issues.

    What length and type of screws would you recommend for attaching 25mm timber studs to the walls?

    Does moisture resistant plasterboard only hold a certain weight of tile?

    Any other usefull advice you guys could add would be much appreciated.
     
  2. pdc

    pdc Living the dream..... Professional Tiler

    Why don't you just dot and dab plasterboard to the brickwork?
     
    • Agree Agree x 3
  3. Plan Tec Tiling

    Plan Tec Tiling Administrator Staff Member Trusted Advisor Professional Tiler JOTM Winner

    Location:
    Wimborne, Dorset
    As above ^^
     
  4. Dan17h

    Dan17h Active Member

    Location:
    Birmingham
    I thought it would be better for the tiles to be attached to a battened wall, from what I read it's more secure but I could he wrong.

    I was planning to use pinkgrip dry fix foam on 1 of the boarded walls as this won't be tiled.

    Even with the dot and dab method, dont they still need to be screwed threw the dabs with wedi washers?

    I just can't find any info on what type and length of screw to use and also if any plugs are required for the screws.
     
  5. Andystiletiling

    Andystiletiling Professional Tiler

    Location:
    Burnley
    Only need mechanical fixings if dabbing onto skim or old plaster, straight onto brick doesn't need screws and washers and its by far the easiest method to get walls flat and plumb. If you fix battens and screw boards to those there only as true as your original wall which can sometimes be a back yard out.
     
    • Agree Agree x 3
  6. Dan17h

    Dan17h Active Member

    Location:
    Birmingham
    Didn't know mechanical fixings were only needed when boarding on old plaster.

    What I'll do then is check the walls are fairly level. If not I'll do dot and dab as it will be easier to get straight and level.

    Any of you guys had any experience with Everbuild pinkgrip dry fix? And if it's ok to use as dot and dab for bathroom walls?

    Also I read somewhere that dot and dab isn't recommended on external walls as they are prone to damp or condensation. Any truth to this?
     
  7. Andystiletiling

    Andystiletiling Professional Tiler

    Location:
    Burnley
  8. Andystiletiling

    Andystiletiling Professional Tiler

    Location:
    Burnley
    Use that and it'll be fine..
     
  9. Dan17h

    Dan17h Active Member

    Location:
    Birmingham
    Thanks guys, with regards to prepping the walls for the adhesive. Would you recommend I apply pva to the bare brick walls because they are quite dusty or would you say just spray water.
     
  10. Andystiletiling

    Andystiletiling Professional Tiler

    Location:
    Burnley
    Soak the wall through with 3-1 SBR, leave it an hour and get dabbing
     
    • Like Like x 1
  11. Cranbrook

    Cranbrook Active Member

    No truth to that mate, condensation is the majority of the time due to a lack of air circulation, and damp will come through whether you you use plasterboard or anything else, if there is a dampm problem to begin with
     
  12. Waluigi

    Waluigi Professional Tiler Top Contributor

    Location:
    UK
    The only time you need mechanical fixings on plasterboard is if it’s PIR thermal board. Each board requires two fixings only. This is to meet the fire regs.

    Yes, condensation is usually formed in houses with solid wall construction (no cavity) due to the humid air inside touching the cold walls.

    Plasterboard on external walls actually stops this but you do need a vapour barrier.
     
  13. Andystiletiling

    Andystiletiling Professional Tiler

    Location:
    Burnley
    So no fixings when dot and dabbing over plaster skim or scratchcoat then ? :|
     
  14. Waluigi

    Waluigi Professional Tiler Top Contributor

    Location:
    UK
    I’m not entirely sure. I tend to knock back to block/brick.

    I suppose the PIR board is pretty heavy and perhaps the foam is flammable so the board doesn’t want to fall off the wall in the event of a fire.

    I was told it was to stop fire spreading too so the mechanical fixing might not be a bad idea against skim/scratch. The bond against a block wall is pretty much guaranteed so no mechanical fixing required.
     
  15. jimthetiler

    jimthetiler Active Member

    Half inch render coat, far superior.
     
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