Have a porcelain job on at the moment and am finding that my Husqvarna TC670 Tile Cutter Pro manual cutter is struggling to snap down the scored line, its occasionally following the line then drifting off accros the tile leaving me having to finish off of wet cutted.

Is this due to the scoring wheel being worn and needing changed or is it tiles too tough?

Ive not changed wheel in a 1yr

yes it could welll be the wheel . does your tile cutter normaly cope with this type of tile, ive never used a husqvana so cant comment on that cutter

yeah till now but this porcelain tile has a textured surfave and isnt smooth so not sure if thats part of the problem or if like i said the wheel needs changed. Its not every cut that this happes on but oo many and mainly when im cutting the lenght 600mm im not getting the clean break.

It will cost you more in broken tiles than buying a new cutting wheel.
Saying that textured surface porcelain will go off line occassionaly without a clean scribe line.
Without using the breaking mechanism of the cutter, just scribe the surface, take the tile off the cutter and use a small hammer to tap the back of the tile along the line of scribe.
If you hold firmly it will snap perfectly every time. We often use this method when the diagonal is required on a 600mm sq porcelain tile - Please Note - take care with the breaking position as you can stab yourself near the appendix area if you are not careful
I didn't get my scars from the war as my grandson thinks!

As TJ for me, the trusty pin hammer. Old traditional methods still come in handy.

You could always turn the tile over and try scoring and snapping on the back. Find it works quite well on textured tiled.

My TS600 plus has been acting up for a little while, it's 7 yrs old and getting tired I think. It regularly has a small "explosion" near the breaker at the very end of cut or a wandering scyth of a cut from about a third of the way along. Changed the wheel but it still has a problem, especially where the tiles have a proud cross-hatch on the back. A pin hammer can be scary but works well, I also find that scoring the tile than placing it over a small piece of dowel or a pencil on the floor (see-saw style) and a firm smack with the palm of the hand works without the disembowelling problem that Timeless John experiences. Same as old style snapping over a match for thin ceramics as my grandad told me.

Depending on the type of breaker that cutter has you could get the split started and then spin it round and do the break for the other end?

I wish. It usually just waits and waits then BANG. Maybe time for a new one.

Pin hammer to the back of the scribe every time

(I've got the same scars TJ)

I too tap back of tile i think it gives our age away this is something we learnt along time ago i also snap over my thigh got to whatch your kneecap though I think my new Montolit mybe good with this kind of tile

Originally Posted by Barry bp

I too tap back of tile i think it gives our age away this is something we learnt along time ago i also snap over my thigh got to whatch your kneecap though I think my new Montolit mybe good with this kind of tile

I'm hearing lots of good things about Ishii tile cutters and they were in T&S Journal last month too. Big in Australia (where I heard about them from a mate) but not seen them over here. Any experience anyone?

A break over the knee works as well, but make is a sharp quick tap or it hurts,,

Originally Posted by spooner68

My TS600 plus has been acting up for a little while, it's 7 yrs old and getting tired I think. It regularly has a small "explosion" near the breaker at the very end of cut or a wandering scyth of a cut from about a third of the way along. Changed the wheel but it still has a problem, especially where the tiles have a proud cross-hatch on the back. A pin hammer can be scary but works well, I also find that scoring the tile than placing it over a small piece of dowel or a pencil on the floor (see-saw style) and a firm smack with the palm of the hand works without the disembowelling problem that Timeless John experiences. Same as old style snapping over a match for thin ceramics as my grandad told me.

I went to a Rubi day at CTD Cambridge and was told that the breaker can become worn. Instead of having a point that works like the pin hammer on the scribe line it becomes flat and this causes the small breakout at the beginning of the cut or the bad break. I believe that Dave at TT sell replacement breakers. Could be cheaper than a new cutter.

Have'nt had any problems with the sigma.

Originally Posted by waterfd

I went to a Rubi day at CTD Cambridge and was told that the breaker can become worn. Instead of having a point that works like the pin hammer on the scribe line it becomes flat and this causes the small breakout at the beginning of the cut or the bad break. I believe that Dave at TT sell replacement breakers. Could be cheaper than a new cutter.

Yeah, just been looking at that. Also the runners seem to be corroding as the rubbers stick a lot and I have to use a silicone spray to get them moving. Will price up the bits and decide.

Two threads going at once here, been running back and forth on what to do what to buy. Sigma, Monolit, Ti66, Iscii....

Anyway.

For sale one used Rubi TS60 Plus, well run in, one careful hardworking owner, all original parts. Offers? Buyer collects.

I bought the Monolit, it was the bit in the film on TT where the geezer was snapping the inch mosaics that clinched it. Sexy.