Oceano Porcelain tiles 600x600mm. Also got some 600x300's on the same job (not sure what make they are though tbh!?!), and the genesis is struggling with both. My mates Rubi TS60 is also failing to get a good cut (hate the breaking mechanism on this cutter). Looks like i'm gonna have to put my hand in my pocket pretty soon...

TX on the cards then

Try out a sigma aswell m8.

Are you scoring the tile all the way to the end and are you snapping thearm down rather than pushing it down?

Yep on both counts. Even tried double and tripple scoring with an 8mm Rubi wheel. I'm getting the occasional clean break, but not a good enough ratio to carry on using it on this job, so having to wet cut all the long cuts. The short cuts are ok though.
TX is definitely out of my price range unfortunately, playing with the idea of either a Montolit cutter, or a Rubi TR 600 (just wondering if the rails are stronger than those on the Genesis?). I've not seen a sigma cutter in the flesh, so haven't really given them any thought to be honest, so thanks for the suggestion.

If I did'nt have a TX I would veer towards the montolit IMO

Originally Posted by whitebeam

If I did'nt have a TX I would veer towards the montolit IMO

TR not too great then?

Never used one beanz but the montolit catchs my eye

i have said it before and i will say it again...

on a ts60...

1.score the tile
2.move score line to edge of bed.
3. place left foot on the tile,against the rails.
4. use right foot in a short sharp stamping motion on the tile...


clean break...no probs....its like a tx...only cheaper, when you need to do diags...then there is a problem!

Originally Posted by whitebeam

Never used one beanz but the montolit catchs my eye

hehe! Yeah it does look like a bit of a beast! Only slight worry is the lack of case; i drive an Escort van, so things do tend to get squashed in the back.

Originally Posted by dagger

i have said it before and i will say it again...

on a ts60...

1.score the tile
2.move score line to edge of bed.
3. place left foot on the tile,against the rails.
4. use right foot in a short sharp stamping motion on the tile...


clean break...no probs....its like a tx...only cheaper, when you need to do diags...then there is a problem!

haha! That's a different technique.

Originally Posted by dagger

i have said it before and i will say it again...

on a ts60...

1.score the tile
2.move score line to edge of bed.
3. place left foot on the tile,against the rails.
4. use right foot in a short sharp stamping motion on the tile...


clean break...no probs....its like a tx...only cheaper, when you need to do diags...then there is a problem!

Is that in the instruction manual

Originally Posted by whitebeam

Is that in the instruction manual

if it was in the manual...us time served would be unemployed!!!...

but like linseed oil,sawdust and old stuff....it works!

Originally Posted by beanz

TR not too great then?

The only times that my TR600S has let me down are:

1. Slate effect porcelain with riven face. Couldn't get an even score so an even snap was also out of the question
2. Any tile over 500 x 500 in a diagonal 'cos the score bed ain't long enough!

Other than that it is bob on IMO.

That said, I am saving up for a TX900 .

Originally Posted by Captain Slow

The only times that my TR600S has let me down are:

1. Slate effect porcelain with riven face. Couldn't get an even score so an even snap was also out of the question
2. Any tile over 500 x 500 in a diagonal 'cos the score bed ain't long enough!

Other than that it is bob on IMO.

That said, I am saving up for a TX900 .

on a extremly riven surface, scribe the back of the tile instead of the face....i know its odd.. the backs tend to be flatter...and a clean snap...
not always the case though!!!!