I finally bought a new blade for my Plasplugs Mastertiler wet cutter. Decided to go with Rubi because of their reputation, and what a bitter dissapointment. Been using it for 2 days on Porcelain, and after the 1st couple of cuts, it started pitting the tiles. The crap blade that came with the cutter didn't do that, although these tiles may well be a higher grade porcelain (they certainly cost the earth). Regardless, i'm pretty dissapointed as this blade cost me £72. The cutter only cost me £85 in the 1st place lol!

Which blade was it..?

IMO rubi make great dry cutters, that is thier core business,
i have seen thier wet cutters and they look plastic, cheap and not great...
they dont make blades so they are proberbly rebranded stuff...
try MARCHRIST....

The CPC wheel??? i found it great.

My marcrist chips the porcelain

Originally Posted by dagger

IMO rubi make great dry cutters, that is thier core business,
i have seen thier wet cutters and they look plastic, cheap and not great...
they dont make blades so they are proberbly rebranded stuff...
try MARCHRIST....

I have a Rubi Diamante D200 and it will out perform any table saw i have seen and it ain't plastic..!!..it is fully stainless steel...1.5hp motor and loads of power..so your comment isn't true..

And the rubi Porcelain CPC2 is the dogs danglies on porcelain...

Originally Posted by whitebeam

My marcrist chips the porcelain

So does mine and it went in the bin after a fortnight..

I bought a pair of rubi nippers, also based on their reputation, and they were ****
The carbide tips chipped on day one,and the plastic covers on the handles disintegrated within a week, I emailed Rubi and never got a reply, NEVER AGAIN

Originally Posted by tommyzooom

I bought a pair of rubi nippers, also based on their reputation, and they were ****
The carbide tips chipped on day one,and the plastic covers on the handles disintegrated within a week, I emailed Rubi and never got a reply, NEVER AGAIN

what did you nibble with them on...?

i actually meant to mention this a few weeks ago,we were looking for blades for cutting miles of cheap ceramic tiles and bought 2 packs of 2 blades from screwfix at about £9(yes for 2 blades) got to say excellent value for money,180mm for rubi 180's(obviously),and i've used them on a few porcelain jobs and had no probs what so ever,obviously they don't last as long as marcist or the better known names but at that price they work out cheaper for larger jobs with thinner/cheaper quality tiles

Fair comments, each to thier own n all...

but my ramondi against a rubi.......noooooo contest....

Blades of all types i have been using recently come from a company called

TIGR,

they have everyting from vanity to 300 mm discs and all are great!!!

CPC2 180mm.
I haven't tried the Marcrist, but my mates Bridge cutter has a similar looking blade (with that almost serated look), and it chips porcelain to hell. That was my reason for going for the Rubi in the end.

The plasplugs are prone to have a wobble on the spindles...i would check this first before dissing the blade...

Start the machine up and then switch off and watch the blade as it slows down...do you notice any wobble on the blade..this could be the cause of chipping and worth checking first.

tilers should only buy "contiuous rim" blades,

if you have a serrated blade it will chip...

you need a blade similar to this:

and not a blade similar to this:



thats my opinion anyway, some peeps may have different opinions...

my sigma 300 blade cuts all really well
my little RUBI ND180 has the cpc blade in and does cut well,iv used it a few times now.

That's actually a strong possiblity Dave, as every now and again when i power down, there is some vibration as if there may be a wobble. No play in it when it's not spinning though, so wasn't sure what to make of that. Didn't consider it being the cause of the chipping, as the original blade left a really nice cut when it was new, but then maybe the wobble is a new development caused by me straining it with the old blunt blade?

My apologies to Rubi, i may have jumped the gun a bit there.

If you do a search on the forum beanz, this has been mentioned a few times with that make of cutter.

We are talking about 'L' shaped cuts and intricate detail cuts on a wet machine aren't we!
I would hate to think that every straight cut is being done wet and not just on a simple TX/similar.

Okay, cheers Dave.

Originally Posted by dagger

tilers should only buy "contiuous rim" blades,

if you have a serrated blade it will chip...

you need a blade similar to this:

and not a blade similar to this:



thats my opinion anyway, some peeps may have different opinions...

i am afraid i must disagree why is everyone using these to cut a good edge on porcelain ? i only have found 1 tile in 27 years i couldn't cut on a dry cutter and that was a heavily riven porcelain

Originally Posted by pjc

i am afraid i must disagree why is everyone using these to cut a good edge on porcelain ? i only have found 1 tile in 27 years i couldn't cut on a dry cutter and that was a heavily riven porcelain

are you cutting slate,travertine and marble etc on a dry cutter?
if so what are you using?

Originally Posted by david campbell

are you cutting slate,travertine and marble etc on a dry cutter?
if so what are you using?

dont be daft but i have never seen one of these blades chip stone unless you use the wrong one

PS i do cut some terracotta marble and granite with a rubi dry cutter

Originally Posted by timeless john

We are talking about 'L' shaped cuts and intricate detail cuts on a wet machine aren't we!
I would hate to think that every straight cut is being done wet and not just on a simple TX/similar.

Yep. L shape cuts, although one was a particularly long L shape cut in a 600mm tile. Realistically, i could've just wet cut the smaller edge, but as i was on the cutter anyway i figured i'd do the long edge too.

Originally Posted by beanz

Yep. L shape cuts, although one was a particularly long L shape cut in a 600mm tile. Realistically, i could've just wet cut the smaller edge, but as i was on the cutter anyway i figured i'd do the long edge too.

yes but if a L shape cut needs a good edge you wet cut it at 45 degs and snap it with a dry cutter dont you ?

No usually to be honest, but that is another option.

Originally Posted by pjc

yes but if a L shape cut needs a good edge you wet cut it at 45 degs and snap it with a dry cutter dont you ?

i am at a loss...wet cutter = stone/composite
dry cutter = porcelain/ceramic

in 15 years i have never heard anyone using a dry cutter (other than an angle grinder) to cut stone.

and if you are going to take it to a wetsaw, whats the point of then taking it to a dry cutter?

sorry, maybe i dont understand???

I think what Pete was saying is that it's quicker to just cut a 45 degree cut into the corner of the L shape, then use the dry cutter to snap the longer lengths. If you have the wet cutter inside with the dry cutter, it's quicker. If like me, you have the wet cutter outside, then maybe just as quick to do both cuts on the wet cutter.

Not sure about the misunderstanding with stone!?!

Originally Posted by dagger

i am at a loss...wet cutter = stone/composite
dry cutter = porcelain/ceramic

in 15 years i have never heard anyone using a dry cutter (other than an angle grinder) to cut stone.

and if you are going to take it to a wetsaw, whats the point of then taking it to a dry cutter?

sorry, maybe i dont understand???

You aint been in it long enough yet then lol

Originally Posted by beanz

I think what Pete was saying is that it's quicker to just cut a 45 degree cut into the corner of the L shape, then use the dry cutter to snap the longer lengths. If you have the wet cutter inside with the dry cutter, it's quicker. If like me, you have the wet cutter outside, then maybe just as quick to do both cuts on the wet cutter.

Not sure about the misunderstanding with stone!?!

no misunderstanding i use my dry cutter to cut some stone