Silicon techniques - TilersForums.co.uk | Tile Forums

dboden · 08-04-2008

New to tiling, but they never shown me any silicon techniques...
Any advice appreciated for a professional finish around a bath.
Thanks in advance

**sWe** · 08-04-2008

Hiho. I'm home waiting for waterproofing to dry properly, so I'll entertain myself by writing a somewhat complete guide to siliconing

Please excuse me for reusing parts of an older post I made.

General information and guidelines

The point of siliconing is threefold:

To mask poor cutting in corners.
To waterproof holes made after tanking.
To neutralize movements in the surrounding structure.

If you use regular grout in corners where there might be structural movement, and then use silicone over it, you defeat the purpose of the silicone, and you risk cracking. Over here, we refer to silicone as "movement grouting", for just that reason. Use silicone where it is due, and regular grout where it is due.

Do use silicone:

Where the substrate is concrete which is less than one year old (it shrinks).
Where the substrate is board material, eg drywall, mounted on a wooden or metallic frame (moves with temperature and humidity).
In new buildings, regardless of substrate, as there will be movement.
Where one substrate material meets another (eg concrete floor meets plasterboard).

You don't need to use silicone for structural reasons:

Where all surfaces are made from concrete which is more than one year old. Prefereably, they should be more than two years old.

There are a few other circumstances where it might, or might not be appropriate, but I can't be arsed. Tell you this though: It's safer to use silicone, than to not use it. If you think it's needed, from structural reasons or otherwise, then by all means use it.

If you want to do movement joints outdoors, you might want to use polymer reinforced silicone.

As for drying: Drying times are almost always listed on the tube.

Guide to siliconing

Grout the surrounding tiles, but make sure there is no grout or otherwise where you intend to use silicone.

If you feel unsure about your technique, and feel you might make a mess, use masking tape of some sort.

Apply the silicone in nice even strings. There are two general types of silicone tools you use for smoothing: One which removes excess, and one which doesn't.

If you tool removes excess, it's good if the string is a little thicker than you want the finished result to be. If your tool doesn't (your index finger is in this category), you'll need to be careful to not apply too much, especially if you aren't using masking tape.

Use some sort of liquid which stops the silicone from sticking. Some silicone manufacturers sell special anti-sticking liquids, which you apply to the tool, and to the silicone string. Most however, use regular detergent (soap) mixed with water. Make sure it's colourant free first though. Strong detergent will ruin the silicone.

Apply the anti-sticking liquid using a water spray, to your tool, and the surrounding tiles, as well as the silicone. If you use masking tape, you only need to spray the tool.

Smooth the silicone with the tool, using a long, even motion.

If the tool removes excess, dump the waste in a waste bag before it starts making a mess.

If needed, spray the tool and the silicone again. When the silicone has a suitable thickness, you might want to go over it using your finger, in one light, long motion. If you've used masking tape, remove it when you're finished.

I've included a picture of the smoothing tool I use.

dboden · 08-04-2008

Top tips - thanks.
Any others, all welcome

**MICK the Tiler** · 08-04-2008

As sWe has said.................some good pointers there.

I myself use a paddle pop stick, You know the timber stick left after you eat your ice cream. i find the radius on the end to be perfect for smoothing.

I've never used masking tape.

Another tip always start in your corners and if you have to stop in stages always stop in a straight area to be siliconed. This is so when you squirt your soapy water it is easy to dry off on straight runs so you can continue without the hassle of it pulling out.

Finish of with your finger and use the touch of a virgin.

**Big-Smudge** · 09-04-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by dboden

New to tiling, but they never shown me any silicon techniques...
Any advice appreciated for a professional finish around a bath.
Thanks in advance

Hi dboden,

I won't bang on about about how good cornertape is and the results you get, but do a search on here, some of the guys on heare have used it and have sung its praises. O yes and just a tip, if you use CT you don't need any water or washing up liquid at all, nothing, and no skill with a gun.

1. Apply CT
2. Fill with Silicone
3. Smooth Silicone (with tool supplied)
4. Pull of CT straight away

Finished, job done, go home.

Have a look at the demo video at www.cornertape.co.uk

Available from CTD, MKM and others, try a 5m roll of 6mm or 8mm if just doing a bath. The results will be spot on, and no stress.

Best regards
Andy

bobbin · 23-04-2008

Not nocking CornerTape or anything, I think it's great for begginers or those who have little confidence, but it is another expense that isn't needed, in my opinion.

When I started to silicone, I made a mock corner joint out of ply and stuck a few tiles on. I used this to practice on getting the technique right, after a few hours of playing around, I got it just right, and no other expense or time needed to stick and peel tape around a whole area.

Again this is only my opinion, and again, I think cornertape is great for begginers.

mkelly · 24-04-2008

follow swe advice but keep a bucket close with paper or rags to hand to keep extra silicone off hands etc.

practice practice practice

Turkish · 24-04-2008

Tried corner tape and have to say i was really impressed! It is on the expensive side but worth it i would say if you`re nervous with silicone

Turkish

**Big-Smudge** · 24-04-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by Turkish

Tried corner tape and have to say i was really impressed! It is on the expensive side but worth it i would say if you`re nervous with silicone

Turkish

Turkish,

Great news, i just wish that some of the other guys would try it, I know that they will also be impressed. Even if you are good with a gun, CT will still improve on the finish that you are used to achieving.

And more importantly without the mess.

Best regards
Andy@CT

**enduro** · 24-04-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by Big-Smudge

Hi dboden,

I won't bang on about about how good cornertape is and the results you get, but do a search on here, some of the guys on heare have used it and have sung its praises. O yes and just a tip, if you use CT you don't need any water or washing up liquid at all, nothing, and no skill with a gun.

1. Apply CT
2. Fill with Silicone
3. Smooth Silicone (with tool supplied)
4. Pull of CT straight away

Finished, job done, go home.

Have a look at the demo video at www.cornertape.co.uk

Available from CTD, MKM and others, try a 5m roll of 6mm or 8mm if just doing a bath. The results will be spot on, and no stress.

Best regards
Andy

Yes it looks really good stuff, just works out expensive and customers wouldnt pay the extra cost.

**Big-Smudge** · 24-04-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by enduro

Yes it looks really good stuff, just works out expensive and customers wouldnt pay the extra cost.

Hi enduro,

I believe you are refering to the SRP of £19.99 for 25m. If you're trade you will not be paying that amount (i know this as fact) if you have an account with CTD and other retailers.

Assuming that you pay 20% less than SRP (as trade), making CT about 64p per (inc VAT) metre. So a 3 metre spashback will cost you £1.92 in tape and about 3 mins of your time for a perfect finish and without the mess of paper towels, soapy water, wonder wipes and all the other bits that you would normally need.

I really do hope that all the guys on here will be attending the tile and stone show because seeing is believing.

Best regards
Andy@CT

Saltire69 · 24-04-2008

Same as mick, my girl lollipop du du du du.