Cutting porcelain tiles

[tileman]

Hi, I just bought a Rubi TX700N because I have a big job that is all porcelain 600mm x 300mm and 600mm x 600mm both 10mm thick, I started today on the 600mm x 300mm the TX700N couldn't cut them, the cuts mostly went off to one side, I ended up using my angle grinder with a Norton Ultimate tile cutting blade, the job is too big to cut all the tiles this way, can anyone help the Rubi cost about £300 and as yet is useless.
Regards John

[gaz4266]

use sigmas, dont have any probs with porcelain, they're a lot less than £300

[Sir Ramic]

Hi Tileman, filling your profile in may help as no one can see your location. Who knows there maybe a tiler local who could help.

[muffinman]

http://www.buybrandtools.com/acatalo...EELS-TX-TM.pdf

try the site above you will need a 18 mill or 22 mill gold scoring wheel ,this will do the trick , hope this helps you .
muff

[strongboes]

The chances are it's your technique in using the cutter. You may be using the wrong size wheel, or not scoring hard enough.

Then there is alwaus a technique to using the breaker. on the rubi's there is a sweet spot which you want to be breaking it, i usually find that a number of small taps with the breaker until with experience you know when it will break, then one quick hard tap and it should break clean.

or you can apply pressure to the breaker slowly increasing it, whilst holding one edge of your tile firmly with the other hand and flexing the tile slightly up and down and there will come a point when it will break.

or you can if your cutter is on the floor, bit difficult to explain this one, right knee on the ground to left side of cutter, left knee on tile corner, left hand on breaker. right hand on tile corner. apply pressure with breaker but initiate break with right hand.

If you cant get tile to break clean which i must admit is very very rare, it's just the way you are doing it, then you could cut each end on your wet cutterto the correct side of your score line, then put back on the rubi and should break fine.

I suspect you need a firmer score line, and a sharper action on your breaker.

p.s all the above are only things i have done when faced with a tile that wouldn't break, and is not a normal thing to be doing.

[Sir Ramic]

This is a problem lots of people have and i have found it is to do with the scoring technique mainly. It seems that when you start the score you are not putting as much pressure on as you do when you are in the middle part of teh score, then as you come to the end you release pressure again. You need to keep a constant pressure all through the scoring action.
As Strongboes says, there is a technique with these harder tiles when it comes to snapping teh tile. Usually moving the snapper slightly into the tile helps. It all takes practice.

[strongboes]

Further to what Sir Ramic has said I got reminded reading his post, is sometimes you dont push the scorer through dead straight, and if you examine the tile carefully you can see the point at which it has gone astray the score line deviates by a small amount, almost like an old record player jumping if you get my drift. My very well used rubi 600 is near the end of it's life i think, you could easliy do a wavy line if you weren't careful. The bearings it slides on have gone pretty loose, which also reminds me, is it possible to replace these bearings????

[tileman]

Thanks all,
Stongboes, I have just tried those moves and am on my way to the hospital now to get untangled.
Seriously, I will try your suggestions tomorrow, I agree with the idea of cutting each end first.
Sir Ramic, I think you are correct in the applied pressure theory, trouble is the tiles are so expensive, I felt I couldn't risk scrapping anymore.

I know one thing though, I will quote a lot more for jobs fixing Porcelain.

Thanks again john

[Captain Slow]

I've gone through the same pains as Strongboes suggests. I have also swapped between a 6mm and 10mm scoring wheel and found differing results (unfortunately there is not a common theme so it is down to trial and error).

I've got a TS600 and find that with patience and a little practice I can cut large format procelain; if all else fails I wack them onto my bridge cutter (that cuts anything!).

Good luck!

[mz30]

Like has been stated by other members Porcelain is notorious for shearing off ,no matter which cutter ,however i have found that using my ts-600 they rarely shear away from the scribed line(it is fairly new though) ,as you stated your using a rubi try and make sure that your scribe is going from the bottom edge of the tile to the top(try lowering your wheel a little)as most of the time i have seen people have the wheel to high and it does'nt scribe properly all the way to the top of the tile, also try scribing twice if it does not work.
Hope that helps

[tileman]

The cutter was supplied with a 10mm and an 18mm scoring wheels, I used the 18mm wheel today. I don't know how to determine which size of wheel is the correct one to use, I thought, the thicker the tile, the bigger the wheel !!!!

[mz30]

Originally Posted by tileman

The cutter was supplied with a 10mm and an 18mm scoring wheels, I used the 18mm wheel today. I don't know how to determine which size of wheel is the correct one to use, I thought, the thicker the tile, the bigger the wheel !!!!

No tileman you have misunderstood what i mean ,when i say lower the wheel i mean have the stem protruding out of the top of where it goes ,however on porcelain i like to use a 6mm wheel as i have found them to be better at scoring porcelain although they may not last as long as cutting ceramic.