Mick's Speedy Tiling Tips

[MICK the Tiler]

Just going through a few threads and have noticed there are alot of novice and first time tilers posting on this forum and all seem to be concerned about how long things can take. This is true tiling can be tedious and slow at times and you need the patience of a saint on some projects.

So I thought I might share some tips and tricks with the new folk on how to do some things more efficently. The pros should know most of them by now so this post is aimed at the "GREEN AS GRASS" new tilers. So on to the trick of the week.

THIS WEEKS TRICK

DOING MULTIPLE STRAIGHT CUTS

At some point you are going to have to do alot of straight cuts be it on a floor or on walls this method works on both except walls where you'll have to mark each tile, but for this example we'll look at floor tiles.

So you've just laid the main body of your floor and you just have the cuts to do most new too tiling will grab the tap measure and begin on one side of the tile then the other and transfer these marks to the tile and the cut and fit. But for this tip you can put the tape back in the toolbox and just grab 4 or 5 tiles and lay them out upside down where they are to go, pushing them hard up against the wall then place a mark allowing for a space and wall clearance sighting down over the tile where it overlapps the last full tile go to the number 5 tile and do the same then using a straight edge draw a line connecting the 2 marks. Number the tiles 1-5 and cut on cutter then test fit continue on down the wall until you have cut all the tiles then flip them back and glue them in. It will take some practice and a little time to get it right but once mastered can save alot of valuable time.

Ths method can also be adobted for wall corner cuts as well as wall to floor cuts you simply turn the tile so the back is facng out push good edge into corner or onto floor and mark leaving grout line and clearance do a series and then cut on the tile cutter no measuring required.

Hope you enjoy reading this weeks tips and tricks. Try it on your next project You'll soon be amazed at how quick it can be.



NEXT WEEK !!!!!

Corner cut-outs using the tile cutter

[Dave]

cheers mick.. i will sticky this thread to make it more noticeable ....

[MICK the Tiler]

This weeks Speedy Tiler Tip.


Corner cut-outs with the Tile Cutter.


This particular teqnique for doing cut outs is especially good when working with larger format tiles around windows and doors, as well as cutting around kitchen cuppboards and external corners on floors. It helps reduce time taken cutting with the angle grinder or wet cutter and also reduces chipping when doing a series of longer cuts, it is quite easy to do and can be mastered in a very short period of time. It will increase your productivity and improve the final finish of your work. So enough of the CHIT CHAT and onto the trick.

1. Mark the position of the cut- out on the tile (Refer to Attachments)

2. using the angle grinder cut the shortest side of the cut-out

3. place the tile on your tile cutter and score from the edge of the tile til you meet the grinder cut, then using the breaker bar snap tile as you would on a full straight cut.

4. clean up any waste left in the corner with your nips or angle grinder, Then check for fit.


NEXT WEEK Tips for using the Angle Grinder.

[trebor]

thanks for these Mick, keep em comin please

[Neil TileTastic]

hi mick howz it goin m8?

was wondering if you could tell me the best way to cut the corner tiles in the pic below if you no what i mean?

( the way i would cut the angle corner tiles for a conservatory would be with a template but it takes to long ya no, is there a better way to do it m8?

p.s i also hav an angle finder tool but the job iam at now the angle finder isnt big enough if ya no what i mean m8 lol

[Sir Ramic]

This aint big enough ???
http://www.tradetiler.com/acatalog/rubi-diag-inst.jpg

[strongboes]

Which corner tiles are you on about mate?

[Neil TileTastic]

iam doing a conservatory and the 2 walls at bothsides are running in a angle and i was wondering what way would be the best to make the tiles to do these cutz, at the min i just lay all my tiles then use a paper template the same size as the tile to get the shape of the angle then i cut the template and place it on the tile and then cut the tile, but there must be a better way to do it as it takes a bit of a while doin it this way,

many thanx neil

[Sir Ramic]

Follow the link i posted above Neil. Thats what you need.

[Neil TileTastic]

many thanx sir ramic it was putting my head away i knew there had to be a gadet like that 1 lol, is there a site to order 1 of them m8? iam in n.ireland but ive never seen them here like.

many thanx again for the replies lads.

keep er tiling

[MICK the Tiler]

Hi Neil,

I too really like the jig tool posted by Sir ramic very handy to have in the tool kit.

Although I don't use one. I use a piece of 20mmx20mm pine moulding with one end cut at a 45 deg angle and place this against the wall acting as the tile edge, then mark with a pencil the other end allowing for a tile spacer, flip it over and mark the other side (Only if angle is greater or in some way differs from 45deg) then place the stick onto tile lining the pencil mark up with the edge of the tile and mark the 45deg cut end the place on cutter and score and snap, should fit sweet.

There are plenty of other ways to scribe tile angles but i find this method quick and inexpensive although I might just get me on of those jigs

I'll try and post a pic of what i'm waffling about as it will be alot easier to visualize.

Glad you are enjoying the posts.

Cheers Mick

[Sir Ramic]

many thanx sir ramic it was putting my head away i knew there had to be a gadet like that 1 lol, is there a site to order 1 of them m8? iam in n.ireland but ive never seen them here like.

many thanx again for the replies lads.

keep er tiling

Try this, scroll to bottom of the page and you will see 2 items, one is cheaper than the other.
http://www.tradetiler.com/acatalog/t...e_marking.html

[MICK the Tiler]

Ok I know what you are all going to say "WHERE'S THIS WEEKS TIPS" Well i'm still in the process of compiling more information and pictures I've been flat out at the mom so be patient and bare with me and I promise to have them for you shortly.

But as a prelude to the tips I thought i might post some of the more mundane and boring but vitally important issues about the angle grinder.

So have a read and get familiar and keep an eye out for the tips to come

Cheers Mick

Angle Grinders

Overview

Angle grinders are one of the handiest tools to use.
Unfortunately, angle grinders also frequently cause
serious injuries among home handymen. Kickback,
where the angle grinder disc is thrust away from the
object it is grinding, can result in severe cuts to hands,
arms, head, torso and legs. Discs can shatter or explode,
sending pieces fl ying. Many angle grinder injuries are
from metal particles lodging in the operator’s eye.

Before Starting

Before starting work with an angle grinder, ask yourself
the following questions:

• Is grinding work necessary? Could a different tool be
used with less risk?

• Am I using the correct size angle grinder for the job?
Is there a risk of losing control of a heavier, more
powerful tool? Could a smaller model be used for
some or all of the work?

• Is the correct disc used for the job, depending on the
type of material being worked on and the size of the
disc?

• Does the guard cover half the disc between the
operator and the disc?

• Does the grinder have an automatic cut-off or
"deadman" switch as part of the hand grip, ensuring
power is cut off as soon as fi nger pressure is
released?

Deadman switch kits are available for older models. (A
deadman switch may not be appropriate for certain tasks
with small angle grinders.)

Safe Work Practices

Do not attempt any tasks with an angle grinder without
following safety procedures.

The following will help protect against injury:

1. Always wear safety goggles to avoid eye injuries
caused by fl ying debris and sparks from angle
grinders.

2. When operating the angle grinder, be careful that the
sparks don’t hit you or anyone else. Sparks can cause
burns, eye injuries, wear out clothing and even set
clothes on fi re.

3. Keep a fi rm grip when using your angle grinder.

4. Ensure the safety guard on your angle grinder is
positioned between the cutting blade and your hands.
Never remove the guard.

5. Wear ear protection to prevent ear damage from
grinder noise.

6. Don’t let the grinding discs wear below the
recommended safety limits as they may shatter.

7. The switches on angle grinders are sensitive and can
be easily knocked into the ‘ON’ position. So when
changing blades, switch off the power at the power
point and pull the plug out of the socket.

8. Always keep angle grinders and other power tools in a
locked cupboard, well out of the reach of children.

Electrical Safety

Angle grinders should be checked for electrical safety
before every use to ensure that:

• there are no breaks or damage to the machine’s outer
body;

• all screws are tight;

• brush caps are intact and fi rmly in position;

• the sheathing of fl exible cord is held fi rmly at the tool;

• there are no exposed wires;
• cords are in good condition, free from cuts and
breaks;

• plugs and extension cords are free from cuts or
damage.

[MICK the Tiler]

Ok so now we got the Safety part of the thread out of the way. We can now concentrate on wheel selection and a quick guide on the different types of materials you may come across when working with tile and how diamond blades work and on what material.

This is by no means a definitive explaination and i've tried to keep alot of the very technical stuff out of it so all you guys and gals who are new to tilng can get an easier grasp of some of the expalainations.

Understanding Diamond Blades

In general, a diamond blade's performance is measured in two ways. The first is how proficiently the blade grinds through the material, and the second is the life of the blade; or the total footage yielded by the blade.

When you select the best suited diamond blade for the job/application/material, you will ensure peak performance and maximum investment return.
Diamond blades consist of four components: diamond crystals, a bonding system, a segment, and a metal core.

Diamond Crystals - The diamond crystals are synthetic (man-made) rather than natural. This gives them a consistency that can be relied upon during the enormous stresses they encounter while grinding. The foremost performance factor in diamond blade sawing is the type, concentration and size of these diamond crystals.

Bonding Matrix - Diamond crystals are held in place by a sintering process of specially blended metal powders. This bonding matrix is crucial to the overall performance of the diamond blade, and serves several vital functions:

•Disperses and supports the diamonds
•Provides controlled wear while allowing diamond protrusion
•Prevents diamond "pull-out"
•Acts as a heat sink
•Distributes impact and load as the diamond attacks the cutting surface

During the sawing action, the wearing away of the matrix exposes new diamond crystals providing fresh cutting points for the blade.

Metal Bonds - The diamond crystals and bonding matrix are heated and shaped into specially engineered rims/segments. These rims/segments are wider than the blade core to which they will be attached, and provide the clearance to promote material discharge and discourage blade binding. The rims/segments are specifically designed to wear at a rate appropriate to the material being cut. Large particles of soft, abrasive materials wear down the matrix faster than the small particles removed from hard dense materials. Therefore, softer, more abrasive materials require a "tough to wear" (hard) bond; and less-abrasive materials require an "easy wear" (soft) bond.

Premium Steel Core - The diamond saw blade cores are made from high alloy, heat treated steel. Depending on the type of blade selected, the steel cores are specifically designed to support the appropriate rim or segment. About the periphery of the core, the various rims or segments are affixed through a brazing or laser welding process. An arbor hole is precisely bored in the center, and the entire core is "tensioned" or tuned; so that the stresses of centripetal force are minimized permitting the blade to spin true on the spindle.

How the Diamond Blade Works

Diamond blades do not really cut, they grind the material through an action of friction with the synthetic diamond bonding matrix. The diamond crystals, often visible at the leading edge and sides of the rim/segment, remove material by scratching out particles of hard, dense materials, or by knocking out larger particles of loosely bonded abrasive material. This process eventually cracks or fractures the diamond particle; breaking it down into smaller pieces. As a result of this phenomenon, a diamond blade for cutting soft, abrasive material must have a hard metal matrix composition to resist this erosion long enough for the exposed diamonds to be properly utilized. Conversely, a blade for cutting a hard, non-abrasive material must have a soft bond to ensure that it will erode and expose the diamonds embedded in the matrix. These simple principles are the foundation of "controlled bond erosion".

Types of Diamond Blade Cutting

There are two basic types of cutting-Dry or Wet. The choice of which type of blade to use depends on:

•The requirements of the job
•The machine/tool utilizing the diamond blade
•The preference of the operator


In the case of DRY cutting, the overwhelming popularity and quantity of hand-held saws and the flexible nature of MK Diamond blades to professionally handle most ceramic, masonry, stone and concrete materials, make the DRY cutting blade a very attractive tool.

When using a DRY blade, the user must be aware of distinct operating practices to ensure optimum performance. DRY cutting blades require sufficient airflow about the blade to prevent overheating of the steel core. This is best accomplished by shallow, intermittent cuts of the material along with periods of "free-spinning" for several seconds to maximize the cooling process.

During wet cutting operations, liberal amounts of water act as a coolant to support the cutting effectiveness and longevity of the WET blade. Additionally, using water adds to the overall safety of cutting operations by keeping the dust signature down.

[MICK the Tiler]

What You Should Know About Asphalt

Hot Mix Asphalt (HMA) is a mixture of Asphalt Cement (a petroleum based "glue" that comprises less than 8%, by weight, the total pavement mixture) and Aggregates (various sized stones, dust, hard inert materials and sand; comprising approximately 92%, by weight, the remaining pavement mixture.) Asphalt does not cure in the sense that concrete does, and once spread and rolled, it can be cut or drilled almost immediately. Unlike cured concrete, sand in asphalt never bonds as firmly, and the slurry created when sawing will be extremely abrasive. A bond matrix similar to cutting green concrete and undercutting protection steel cores are important factors when undertaking asphalt cutting operations. Some unique factors should be observed when cutting asphalt:
•Hard & large sized Aggregates in the asphalt will cause the blade to cut slower.
•The greater the Aggregate-Sand ratio, the faster the blade will cut, but total footage may decrease.
•Total asphalt depth can vary. It is common to cut through the asphalt layer into the sub-base. Generally, the sub-base contains a high content of very abrasive materials such as sand, dirt, dusts and like-materials. This undesirable situation causes rapid wear of the diamond blade.
•Chunks or broken up asphalt to be cut often attracts dirt and sand fillers within the cracks. This, too, will make the asphalt more abrasive and affect the life of the diamond blade.

What You Should Know About Ceramic

Tile Ceramic products are varied and depending on their manufacturing processess, they exhibit their own special qualities and properties. The hardness of the cramic material is directly attributed to its manufacturing process, and generally references the Mohs Scale to categorize its hardness.

The Manufacturing Process

Ceramic tile production begins with the excavation of clays to be used in the manufacturing process. Depending on the type of tile being produced, any number of two to six different types and colors of clay may be necessary to blend together in a mixture.
The selected bulk clays are mixed with water and this mixture is pumped into large, rotating cylindrical mills, where extreme grinding action pulverizes the clay into uniform and homogenous particles. This substrate is called "body-slip", and has the consistency of a milk shake.
Next, moisture from the body-slip is evaporated by a spray dryer burner; creating fine particles of uniformly sized dry clay called "powder". The powder is then fed into molds within a hydraulic press, where it is molded into pressures of approximately 4,000 PSI to form "green ware" (what the tile is called prior to being fired). The green ware is dried again to further reduce the moisture content, and then travels down "glaze lines' where various types of glazes are applied to the surface.
The glazed green ware travels through a kiln and undergoes a 45-50 minute firing where temperatures can reach 2300°F causing the glaze to fuse to the body. The tile that emerges from this process is very hard, durable and impact resistant.

Hardness of Ceramic Tiles

•Water absorption rate, glazes, compression and material all determine the hardness of ceramic tile.
•The percentage of water absorption by the tile body determines whether the ceramic tile is Impervious, Vitreous, Semi-Vitreous, or Non-Vitreous. From Impervious, where absorption rates of 15% and higher, harness factors change.
•Most glazes fall in the 5 to b Mobs Scale range. However, certain types of floor and porcelain tiles can have compressive strengths of 10,000 PSI and a Mobs hardness factor of 8.

[MICK the Tiler]

What You Should Know About Masonry - The Manufacturing Process

Brick manufacturing today follows fundamental procedures pioneered centuries ago. However, better knowledge of raw materials and their properties, better control of firing and improved kiln designs have resulted in a superior product. The production of bricks centers around the type of clay that is used. Clays occur in three forms (Surface Clays, Fire Clays & Shales). Although they share similar chemical compositions, they will differ in their physical characteristics. All properties of brick are affected by the composition of the raw materials and the manufacturing processes. Essentially brick are produced by: (1) mixing ground clay with water, (2) forming them into desired shapes, (3) then drying and firing them. Establishing a homogeneous blend is necessary before subjecting the mixture to one of three forming processes (Stiff-Mud, Soft-Mud or Dry-Press). Next, the process continues with drying, firing and cooling. Kiln firing temperatures during manufacturing graduate from 400°F to 2400°F.

Hardness of Bricks

•There are many different types of brick (Building, Facing, Hollow, Paving, Ceramic Glazed and Thin Brick), and different scales of hardness. The strength of a unit is used to determine its durability and cutability. Both compressive strength and absorption are affected by properties of the clay, method of manufacturing and degree of firing. Most bricks have a strengths ranging from 3,000 PSI to over 20,000 PSI; averaging around 10,000 PSI.

•Brick may also include different size, type and volume of aggregates to further strengthen the mix.

What You Should Know About Stone

Natural and Pre-cast Stones vary significantly in their geographic origin, mineralogical composition, and physical and mechanical properties. There are numerous types of stone to select; with each one exhibiting specific qualities of compressive strength and abrasive resistance. Additionally, these qualities would dictate appropriate diamond blade selection to effectively handle cutting requirements.

Your Choice of Stone Requires a Specific Type of Diamond Blade

•Marble
•Sandstone
•Granite
•Limestone
•Slate/Flagstone
•Precast Stones General

Characteristics of Stone

The complex nature and variables of Natural and Pre-Cast stone make it difficult to generalize their overall physical and mechanical properties. Unless the operator has had experience in cutting a particular stone, there are methods that can help predict the stone's sawability, and so determine the "best" diamond blade. The American Society of Testing and Materials (ASTM) recognizes several physical property measurements that can identify a stone's hardness:
•Uniaxial Compressive Strength (UCS) - Measuring basic rock strength parameters. Commonly measured in Pounds Per Square Inch (PSI)

•Cerchar Abrasivity Index (CAI) - Measuring a rocks abrasivity for determining cutting wear rates. Defined by a graduated numerical scale: lower numbers indicating less abrasive qualities, and therefore greater hardness.

•Mohs Hardness Scale - A scale of hardness applied to minerals that ranges from 1 to 10 indicating one from the other's scratch potential. The higher the number the harder the mineral.

•Shore Scleroscope Hardness Test - A dynamic indentation hardness test using a number to indicate the height of a rebounding hammer off the surface of the material. The higher the number the harder the material.
It is recommended to review all data relating to a stone's hardness and abrasive qualities to effectively choose the proper diamond blade. No singular Property Measurement Test can define the characteristics a stone would exhibit during the cutting process. As a general reminder for stone diamond blades: tests and industry experience has documented that stone exhibiting a greater degree of hardness and abrasive resistance require softer bond matrixes.

Conclusion

The preceding information has illustrated the unique physical properties of common building materials that often require sawing or drilling. Over the years, diamond blades and tools have consistently demonstrated their reliability, economy, performance and safety. The singular most important factor an operator of diamond blades and tools can recognize is matching the proper blade with the material to be cut.

[MICK the Tiler]

What You Should Know About Concrete

Four essentials must be known about the concrete to determine proper diamond blade selection.
1. Compressive Strength
The hardness of concrete is referenced by its compressive strength measured in Pounds per Square Inch (PSI). Cured concrete slabs vary widely in compressive strength; with moisture, temperature, design of mixture additives, cementitious materials and curing processes often determining their measured level of strength. The higher the compressive strength, the harder the material.
Concrete HardnessPSITypical ApplicationVery Hard8,000 or moreNuclear plantsHard6,000 - 8,000Bridges, PiersMedium4,000 - 6,000RoadsSoft3,000 or lessSidewalks, Parking Lots
2. Age of the Concrete
The "age", or length of curing time greatly affects how the diamond blade interacts with the concrete. Although methods exist to accelerate the curing process, the "state" of concrete from initial pouring to a period of 72 hours and over can be defined in 3 distinct increments, and is influenced by temperature, weather, moisture, aggregate, time of year, admixtures and composition.
State 1
The concrete is considered in its "green" state 0 to 8 hours after the pour, meaning it has set but has not hardened completely. With green concrete, the sand in the mixture has not bonded to the mortar blend firmly and will cause extreme abrasive action once the physics of sawing begins. Further, the slurry generated by green concrete is equally as abrasive and will require special undercutting protection for the steel core of the diamond blade. Typically, sawing control joints of highways, industrial flooring, driveways, runways and like-projects is performed during this state.
State 2
The concrete is considered as cured 8 to 24 hours after the pour. The sand is held firmly adhered to the overall mixture. Generally, control joints established in State 1 are widened during this time.
State 3
The concrete is considered as cured 24 to 72 hours after the pour. The sand is held firmly in the mortar mixture and the overall abrasive actions and properties of the concrete is greatly diminished. Now, consideration of the aggregates, compression strength and steel content of the concrete becomes important factors in determining proper diamond blade selection.
3. Aggregates and Sand
Aggregates are the granular fillers in cement that can occupy as much as 60% to 75% of the total volume. They influence the way both green and cured concrete perform. Aggregates can be naturally occurring minerals, sand and gravel, crushed stone or manufactured sand. The most desirable aggregates used in concrete are triangular or square in shape; with hard, dense, well graded and durable properties. The average size and composition of aggregates greatly influence the cutting characteristics and selection of the diamond blade. Large aggregates tend to cause blades to cut slower, and smaller aggregates allow the blades to cut faster.
DifficultyAverage Aggregate SizeHarder to Cut
(blade wears slower)1½" or more
1½" - ¾"
¾" - 3/8"Easier to Cut
(Blade wears faster)Pea gravel (less than 3/8")
Aggregate hardness is referenced by the Mohs Scale. This scale assigns arbitrary quantitative units, ranging from 1 through 10, by which the scratch hardness of a mineral is determined; each unit of hardness is represented by a mineral that can scratch any other mineral having a "lower-ranking" number. The minerals are ranked from talc or 1 (the softest), upward through diamond or 10 (the hardest). Hard aggregates shorten blade life and reduce cutting speed.
Sand composition is another factor in determining the hardness characteristics of the cement and the abrasive properties of the mortar. Three types of sand are generally used in the mixture:

•River Sand (round non-abrasive)
•River Bank Sand (sharp abrasive)
•Manufactured Sand (sharp abrasive)

River Bank Sand and Manufactured Sand are more abrasive than River Sand. The more abrasive the sand is, the harder the bond matrix requirements. Also, sharper; more geometrically defined sands require harder bonds.
4. Steel Reinforcement
Further strengthening and structural integrity of concrete is accomplished by introducing concrete Reinforcing Steel Bars (Rebar), Steel Wire Strand of Wire Meshing into the concrete. It costs more to cut concrete that contains reinforcing steel because cutting rates are slower and blade life is reduced. If the cross-sectional area of concrete is 1% steel, the blade life will be about 25% shorter than if no steel were present. Concrete with 3% steel can reduce blade life as much as 75%.

[jagtiling]

Thanks for the speedy tiler tips, keep them coming. As one of those newbie tilers all tips and hints are gratefully accepted. That angle marking tool is not bad either, thanks sir ramic

[macten]

C'mon Mick - a man with your skills can't possibly have run out of tips!!

[whitebeam]

Should be Mick the Tilers advise centre

[diamondtiles]

thanks mick. thats great. look forward to your next set of tips.

wanted to ask how its possible to generate more business...any ideas...

[diamondtiles]

Mick. Thanks for all your tips so far. keep them coming...

I wanted to ask what if its worth plying a tongue and groove chipboard floor before laying ceramic tiles over it??

Any thoughts??

Michael

[Alberta Stone]

Chip board (OSB) should never be tiled over.

As for angle cuts I use a large square to find my marks.
It works, but that Rubi tool looks nice.

[cornish_crofter]

I don't like angle grinders in general and tend to use them when absolutely necessary.

Hence, for tiling I use a Belle Mini Tile

[doug boardley]

Hi Neil,

I too really like the jig tool posted by Sir ramic very handy to have in the tool kit.

Although I don't use one. I use a piece of 20mmx20mm pine moulding with one end cut at a 45 deg angle and place this against the wall acting as the tile edge, then mark with a pencil the other end allowing for a tile spacer, flip it over and mark the other side (Only if angle is greater or in some way differs from 45deg) then place the stick onto tile lining the pencil mark up with the edge of the tile and mark the 45deg cut end the place on cutter and score and snap, should fit sweet.

There are plenty of other ways to scribe tile angles but i find this method quick and inexpensive although I might just get me on of those jigs

I'll try and post a pic of what i'm waffling about as it will be alot easier to visualize.

Glad you are enjoying the posts.

Cheers Mick

I do something similar mick, I place a piece of batten along top edge of full tile, slide it through to wall and mark with pencil,allowing for perimeter and grout joints, swing it through 90 degrees and do same up adjacent length, a lot easier to do than describe tho'!! lol
bonny tiler

[MICK the Tiler]

Ok so I haven't given any speedy tiler tips for a while due to being to busy of late,but I was only thinking the other day whilst using my wet saw about a simple modification you might want to do to your bridge saw that will cost you nothing, but with the added bonus of improving the saws cutting ability.

I've done the modification on all my bridge saws for over 20 years so I know it works and I won't go back to the other way again.

A word of warning though this modification is only for overhead wet saws and is not to be done on any other type of saw only tile saws where the saw passes over the tile will be safe enough to modify.

So here goes. Most wet saws will spin in a clockwise direction making the cutting action down into the tile, but what we want to do is reverse the polarity of the motor so that the blade will spin in a counter clockwise rotation or spinning up and away from the tile.

"Why the hell would we want to do that" I hear you all saying. Well I don't know the technical response for the modification, but it works, and your saw will run smoother cut cleaner and the wheel will last longer and so too will the motor. If you have your doubts TRY IT!!! You can always switch it back if you don't like it. This is the beauty of this TIP.


Here's a pick for you to look at of what I mean.

[macten]

I'm no ghost buster Mick - How do I reverse the polarity?

[MICK the Tiler]

Bear with me................. i'm looking for a pictoral solution as we speak. It's kind of hard to put into words.

[beanz]

Talking of slight modifications, i was thinking of welding a bump on my bucket trowels arm (not sure of the technical term lol!) to stop it slipping into the bucket. I know a lot of people lately have mentioned this problem, so thought i'd put it out there.

[Dave]

MICK!!...Sorry mate but we can not condone that anybody messes with electrical machinery who is not competent to do this.....A machine is designed and built to run a certain way and we don't want people to void their warranties or kill themselves messing with electrics.....

Tilers forums cannot be held responsible if anybody does as mick suggests...

thanks...dave..