Tiling Kitchen questions - TilersForums.co.uk | Tile Forums

lukeo · 01-03-2008

I'm tiling the kitchen this weekend. The layout is almost identical to this one: http://www.tilersforums.co.uk/tilega...php?photo=1130 except ours is longer on each side but the window and cooker are in the same place. We have 4" x 4" ceramic tiles, they look like stone but aren't.

1. After much debate we plan to do 3 rows of tiles the whole way round. This will leave equal space between the top of the tiles and the wall units. After looking round many showrooms it seems a lot of examples don't use an edging strip when using a couple rows of tiles and I think it can look very neat. The only problem with ours is we have to go across a window reveal. Now, I can't put edging strips on the external corners of the reveal without doing it all the way along the top row everywhere else. Can I?

So I either use edging strips for everything, or none. If using none then it will be like this: http://www.tilersforums.co.uk/tilega....php?photo=984 .....how do you decide whether the horizontal or vertical overlaps?

2. I don't see many examples of x rows of tiles in the gallery, most seem to go right up to the wall units. What are the thoughts on doing only a couple rows of tiles?

3. Out worktop is 3mm out of level from one end to the other. It's we over 3metres long though. Should I ignore the 3mm and simply start tiling straight off the worktop? It seems a bit of a fuss to try nail a battern to the wall to get a level for 3m, a batten that long is also unlikely to be level all the way along.

**Sir Ramic** · 01-03-2008

As for the worktop being out of level, i trust you will be applying a silicone sealant around the worktop when finished? That will cover the 3mm gap, so just tile from units.
Most people have the tiles taken right up from worktop to the underside of the wall units, no point having a gap. Wall units are generally between 450mm - 500mm above worktops.
The second picture have placed a link to is wrong in my opinion as the vertical tile on the front of the cill is over lapping the tile on the cill. It should be the other way around IMO. The tiler has got away with no trim due to the nature of the tiles. These look like travertine and so have an edge to them, yours may not and would look unsightly without trim.
I rarely put trim around all edges unless asked. So i use it where a tile forms an edge with another tile. Its personal choice but its my customers choice. This picture only has trim along the cill and upright edges of cill
http://www.tilersforums.co.uk/tilega...75&ppuser=4216

lukeo · 01-03-2008

So on that picture you don't have a trim along the top? so just 3 trims, one for each side of the window reveal? How do you finish off the 2 vertical trims at the top? Just fill the hole at the top of the trim with grout?

Our tiles are very similar to those.

**Sir Ramic** · 01-03-2008

Yeah just grout packed in tight, then the customer usualy runs the paint brush with the same colour as the wall along the top edge of the tiles to finish it off.

**sWe** · 01-03-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by lukeo

I'm tiling the kitchen this weekend. The layout is almost identical to this one: http://www.tilersforums.co.uk/tilega...php?photo=1130 except ours is longer on each side but the window and cooker are in the same place. We have 4" x 4" ceramic tiles, they look like stone but aren't.

1. After much debate we plan to do 3 rows of tiles the whole way round. This will leave equal space between the top of the tiles and the wall units. After looking round many showrooms it seems a lot of examples don't use an edging strip when using a couple rows of tiles and I think it can look very neat. The only problem with ours is we have to go across a window reveal. Now, I can't put edging strips on the external corners of the reveal without doing it all the way along the top row everywhere else. Can I?

So I either use edging strips for everything, or none. If using none then it will be like this: http://www.tilersforums.co.uk/tilega....php?photo=984 .....how do you decide whether the horizontal or vertical overlaps?

You generaly want the overlap to be where it is the least visible, and if you do make overlaps, you will probably want to stay consistant.

Quote:

Originally Posted by lukeo

2. I don't see many examples of x rows of tiles in the gallery, most seem to go right up to the wall units. What are the thoughts on doing only a couple rows of tiles?

Over here it's pretty popular in buildings owned by the local councils. Standard seems to be three rows of 15x15cm ceramics starting 2mm above the worktop, and the a piece of... Argh, brain freeze! What do you call those wooden strips you put in the transfers between surfaces? Anyways, one of those on top, against the wall units, except it overlaps the top edge ceramics about a cm.

I need coffee...

Quote:

Originally Posted by lukeo

3. Out worktop is 3mm out of level from one end to the other. It's we over 3metres long though. Should I ignore the 3mm and simply start tiling straight off the worktop? It seems a bit of a fuss to try nail a battern to the wall to get a level for 3m, a batten that long is also unlikely to be level all the way along.

If you want to use a batten, measure the surface, and begin with the second row. If you're unsure about the straightness of the batten, inspect it visually, and the use a spirit level to make sure it is completely straight.
Otherwise, use an aluminium profile batten. They're always straight unless you step on them or some such.

When I encounter out of level worktops, I tend to begin with the first row. If possible, I measure out a hight where the deviation doesn't affect the tiles, and draw a line along where the upper edge of first row is going to be, using a spirit level and a graphite pencil. If the deviation is too great, or too uneven, I usually start at the lower end, drawing a line the the spirit level, and then I just nip the tiles where appropriate as I go.

bigdaz · 01-03-2008

Sir Ramic - I take it on that picture you posted, you were asked to start the tiles from the edge of the worktop and that's why the window isn't centered?

**Sir Ramic** · 01-03-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigdaz

Sir Ramic - I take it on that picture you posted, you were asked to start the tiles from the edge of the worktop and that's why the window isn't centered?

Would you centre the window and have a cut on the edge???

bigdaz · 01-03-2008

no of course not, just not sure what the best thing is to do in that situation - over hang the worktop by half a tile, cut them and add an edge strip, or just do what you've done.

**Sir Ramic** · 01-03-2008

You do what looks right to you unless the client has other ideas, they are paying.
That job was part of 12 houses for a builder.
On that job centring the window was not an option.

strongboes · 01-03-2008

You can always cut 45 degree chamfers on the edge's, looks nice if you do it properly. recently did this for a spanish lady who tiled her whole kitchen and utility room before putting the kitchen in! used 200*600 tiles and every external 90 and reveal had to have chamfers cut. took forever!!!!!!!