Help for Brick style pattern needed - TilersForums.co.uk | Tile Forums

Jimmy Boy · 10-02-2008

Any tips on gauging out a ensuite bathroom for a brick style pattern please. Worked out tile amount for Woman, she gets tiles on Tuesday ready for me to get cracking. Today she phoned and has asked me to fix them brick pattern.

I Never worked out walls for this pattern before.

What's the best method for gauging out for the cuts, sills, door frame and internal corner cuts. And would you use a staff?

Thanx Jimbo

**whitebeam** · 10-02-2008

What your've got to remember is that you have only half a tile to play with, That is the only difference and work out as normal

Jimmy Boy · 11-02-2008

So I mark out gauge rod as normal but also put marks for half the tile as well to work out rows surrounding objects like a window?

**IvegotsTILE** · 11-02-2008

Thats right,bear in mind it does take longer and there's alot more chance of getting sliver cuts at some point.Keep checking with your spirit level vertically to make sure the grout lines are in line.

GazTech · 11-02-2008

Start from centre...as always...then achieve the horizontal (staff if you like) and mark it for the easiest cut..ie bigger cuts in middle of tile is better than slivers...Gaz

**grumpygrouter** · 11-02-2008

I have just done a brick bond set. It is straightforward to set out really. Just do as you would normally do then set out again from your 1/2 tile position and re-check your cuts. Really important that you avoid lipping! Makes sure walls are as flat as possible otherwise you will be back buttering a lot of the time!

It does take longer as well as making sure you have your vertical grout lines in line is more time consuming. 1 time I think a laser level is really useful. I didn't have one and it would have helped with each first tile on each row.

Grumpy

quick draw macgraw · 11-02-2008

Hello mate,

Totally agree with Grumpy here although i dont know what lipping is could you elaborate please Grumpy.

Cheers Steve.

Jimmy Boy · 11-02-2008

Thanks chaps.
Done her working out this morning with tile that was one of a few take home single testers.

One other thing. When you meet the internal corner with a 1/3rd or 1/4 of a tile I take it you would match it up with a longer cut tile on adjoining wall i.e one of the 3/4 or 2/3rd cut tile.

Thanx
Forum comes in real handy yet again.

I got some before pics on my phone will try and match em up with some after pics and post em all up.

**grumpygrouter** · 11-02-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jimmy Boy

Thanks chaps.
Done her working out this morning with tile that was one of a few take home single testers.

One other thing. When you meet the internal corner with a 1/3rd or 1/4 of a tile I take it you would match it up with a longer cut tile on adjoining wall i.e one of the 3/4 or 2/3rd cut tile.

Thanx
Forum comes in real handy yet again.

I got some before pics on my phone will try and match em up with some after pics and post em all up.

Spot on Jimmy, it is important to continue the pattern around the room (as much as possible) gives a much better finished effect.

Quickdraw, lipping is when 1 tiles does not sit flush with the adjacent tile, it sits proud.

Grumpy

Grumpy

quick draw macgraw · 11-02-2008

Thought so grumpy thanks for the terminology

m.w.tiling · 11-02-2008

Take care to look for any curves to walls etc, the lipping that occurs with half bond creates a basket weave effect that looks terrible. I also think that thinking symmectrically can help, as far as the room allows, spend time on the prep, check your levels and it should be a breeze.

Jimmy Boy · 12-02-2008

Crickey ....

Ok, she now wants a travetine mosaic border type band running vertical down one wall.

What is it with women.