Battons???

[charlie1]

I know this has been brought up before but what do you all use? Here is my method, using 2 x 1 timber i batton off for the bottom row then screw to wall adjusting all the way along using laser level, then i fix my 1st row and run my laser level along them using wedges to allign them to as near perfection as i can get.

I would like to start using some boxed aluminium for battons for real precision instead of timber? Anyone got any suggestions of where to get them, and... what do you guys do for 1st row?

[hillhead]

I usually baton too but even build from base too as a lot of my bathrooms have joints running from floor up the walls too.

[ROBSON MCGREGOR]

Screw Fix for a pack of beads (levels) think they are selling them for 35 bangers just now.

Use a drill with a metal drill bit & drill holes right along the length of the beads.

Be careful drilling into walls though just incase a pipe or cable is lurking behind.

[Stewart]

I do it like this...



Created on iPhone.....

[whitebeam]

I use some ali screed rules if theres a long run to wall but I have various lengths though...

[charlie1]

yeah, saw them, the silverline ones? Im really just wanting boxed alumunium sections though, dont need levels

[whitebeam]

Could try these guys http://www.refina.co.uk/webpdfs/Feat...es__levels.pdf

[kendo1]

I always look along the length of a piece of timber for battens to check for staightness. Don't see much point in buying a squint piece.
How many different lengths will you carry of the aluminium? That's presuming that you are going to re-use them.
I'll stick to timber battens and cut them to suit the situation.

Or are you taking up cheerleading?

[kilty55]

ive got the bare cheek to go into b and q...i pick up a level and walk to the timber section...split open the kiln dried batons packs of 8...and check them for straightness...i take the straight ones and leave the bent ones and leave the level...

[charlie1]

I always look along the length of a piece of timber for battens to check for staightness. Don't see much point in buying a squint piece.
How many different lengths will you carry of the aluminium? That's presuming that you are going to re-use them.
I'll stick to timber battens and cut them to suit the situation.

Or are you taking up cheerleading?

Lol, yeah its late and im tired. There is no such thing as a strtaight piece of timber imo!

[kendo1]

How about here:
Metal Angles | Buy Metal | Online Metal Supplies | Aluminium | Brass | Stainless Steel
Price is £2.26 for a metre length of 3/4 x 3/4 x1/8

[charlie1]

thought about using feather edges from wickes, only 16 quid (i think), might just invest in a few of them and cut them up

[kendo1]

ive got the bare cheek to go into b and q...i pick up a level and walk to the timber section...split open the kiln dried batons packs of 8...and check them for straightness...i take the straight ones and leave the bent ones and leave the level...

That's the kind of thing I do, pick up a tape or saw and use it/leave it. I thought it was just me.
Maybe it's a Scottish thing?

[kendo1]

thought about using feather edges from wickes, only 16 quid (i think), might just invest in a few of them and cut them up

Bit expensive, did you look at the link?

[charlie1]

Bit expensive, did you look at the link?

yeah, the link was good, exactly what im looking for mate, thank you!

[John Benton]

ive got the bare cheek to go into b and q...i pick up a level and walk to the timber section...split open the kiln dried batons packs of 8...and check them for straightness...i take the straight ones and leave the bent ones and leave the level...

I use my local timber merchant and get planed lengths with no knots in, they tend to be pretty good. Normally get a 5m cut it to 3 and 2m and that does me one or two jobs. Much cheaper than BnQ

[kendo1]

yeah, the link was good, exactly what im looking for mate, thank you!

If I was a lawyer that would be £200

[charlie1]

25mm x 25mm x 1800 (3 mill thick), aluminium "L" section 6 quid!! perfect!

[kendo1]

There is postage. They're in Hampshire.

[pjc]

I use some ali screed rules if theres a long run to wall but I have various lengths though...

Thats because you are a plasterer we use anything we are used to i sposee your Customers are lucky you weren't a chef lol

[timeless john]

Most window companies do boxed aluminium in various lengths and often coated for ease of cleaning.

[charlie1]

Most window companies do boxed aluminium in various lengths and often coated for ease of cleaning.

what do you use john? like many of the guys on here you have loads of experience! As said before, i use timber then adjust with wedges and laser on my 1st row of tiles but i think i could save time by investing in a more presice method!

[AMtek]

I normally start from floor with cut tiles, wedge them up and crack on, i find it quicker and easier

[lmkitchens]

I typically use a timber batton and nail gun it on, thats plenty to start on!

[Mike]

i use battens but i waste time fixing them to the wall, i should be looking for a quicker way but i don't fancy cutting in the first row and working off them.

[lmkitchens]

^^ Nail gun them (;

[Mike]

^^ Nail gun them (;

i've already got too many tools to carry around, and i can't see a nail gun paying for itself

[charlie1]

i use battens but i waste time fixing them to the wall, i should be looking for a quicker way but i don't fancy cutting in the first row and working off them.

I like knowis i have a level batten indtead of floor too, gives me piece of mind

[Discount Tile Supplies]

ive got the bare cheek to go into b and q...i pick up a level and walk to the timber section...split open the kiln dried batons packs of 8...and check them for straightness...i take the straight ones and leave the bent ones and leave the level...

Love ur style. U should do that with their tiles as well!!

[kilty55]

not sure i would be leaving with many tiles then lol