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What are my options? in the
Tiling Forum at TilersForums;
In my kitchen there are currently quarry tiles on the floor. We are intending on overlaying these with some approx 40 x 40 travertine.
The floor is pretty flat all ... -
New TilersForums Contributor
What are my options?
In my kitchen there are currently quarry tiles on the floor. We are intending on overlaying these with some approx 40 x 40 travertine.
The floor is pretty flat all over except for one area when you walk in that's approx. 2m x 0.75m. This area is higher than the rest of the floor in some places and lower in others.
My initial idea was to rip this uneven section up and use SLC. But was concerned about a) how long it will take the SLC to dry before I can lay tiles on top??? B) the depth I can make up with SLC. We are looking to tile the floor with travertine next week.
Do I have another options after ripping the offending tiles up? E.g coul I make the gap up with ply/backerboard/adhesive instead of SLC?
Or any other options?
What I don't want to do is rip up all the quarry tiles.
Thanks for reading, hope you can help.
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Re: What are my options?
well im afraid my advice would be to rip the lot up and start again, is this an old house, imo if you dont you will be wasting ya money on trav, or any other tile tbh
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Re: What are my options?
Best bet is to rip up the tiles...sorry. You could then use a backer board to the correct thickness to get the floor ready to tile.
If you choose to patch the floor you could use self leveller assuming it will be correct for the depth required but tiling onto tiles is not sensible. You may find when you remove the high spot that this will loosen the other tiles. Should you tile over with Travertine then you could well be asking for trouble and a big expense at a later date.
Should you still insist on tiling over the quarries then at the very least use a decoupling membrane.
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New TilersForums Contributor
Guys I appreciate the best solution is to take them all up but this is something I'm not wanting to pursue.
What are the best alternatives?
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Re: What are my options?
I have given you the alternatives.
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Re: What are my options?
as sir ramic as said at the very least use a membrane, this does,nt mean that it will work depends on how well the tiles are fixed, poor prep work will lead to failure , sorry
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Re: What are my options?
Trust me, one of the easiest tile/stone to crack will be travertine...the slightest movement in the existing substrate will crack the stone. Only trying to save you heartache in the long term.
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New TilersForums Contributor
I know you are and I very much appreciate your advice guys.
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Re: What are my options?
my advice is the same remove the tiles,i would not tile onto quarries with travertine
why dont you want to remove them?
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New TilersForums Contributor
Big job, time is against me then I would have to SLC the whole floor. Not an option for me.
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doug boardley
Guest
Re: What are my options?
my advice is same as everyone else's. Time may be against you but do it once and do it right imo.
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New TilersForums Contributor
Agreed everyone but sometimes we can't take most appropriate action and we must get around difficulties whilst minimising risk where possible.
The tiles appear to be solid at the moment, so personally I do not think it will be a problem tiling over them at all.
So how long would you guys normally leave SLC before tiling over it?
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doug boardley
Guest
Re: What are my options?
would you take the advice??
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Re: What are my options?
slc can usually be tiled after 24 hrs but check the bag to be sure
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doug boardley
Guest
Re: What are my options?

Originally Posted by
Mike
slc can usually be tiled after 24 hrs but check the bag to be sure
depends on the thickness Mike
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New TilersForums Contributor

Originally Posted by
doug boardley
would you take the advice??
I always take advice on board. However anyone would be foolish to act upon all advice.
However I really do appreciate everyone's comments
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New TilersForums Contributor

Originally Posted by
doug boardley
depends on the thickness Mike
I would say it's about 50mm
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New TilersForums Contributor

Originally Posted by
Mike
slc can usually be tiled after 24 hrs but check the bag to be sure
Cheers
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Re: What are my options?
i understand that doug but it will say on the bag the maximum thickness and curing time, obviously if a second layer is added it will need more time.
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Re: What are my options?
normal conditions possibly 24 hours for slc depending how deep etc
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Re: What are my options?

Originally Posted by
diytrainee
I would say it's about 50mm
if it's that thick you'll need a certain one that will cover that thickness. most won't go to that
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New TilersForums Contributor
Cheers guys.
So if I have to do two layers would you say 48 hours is enough for tiling?
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doug boardley
Guest
Re: What are my options?
weber floor flex will in one hit, but I'd be leaving it longer than 48 hours to cure.
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New TilersForums Contributor

Originally Posted by
doug boardley
weber floor flex will in one hit, but I'd be leaving it longer than 48 hours to cure.
How much longer, 72 hours do it?
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doug boardley
Guest
Re: What are my options?
at 5mm thickness it's between 8-12 hours, and that's at 15-20 degrees C,,,,obviously at 50mm thick it's getting to be nearer a week imo
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Re: What are my options?
if you have decided to leave the tiles down, then slc, decoupling membrane then tiles, and fingers crossed, then i look forward to your next post
why have my trav tiles cracked
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New TilersForums Contributor

Originally Posted by
nybor62
if you have decided to leave the tiles down, then slc, decoupling membrane then tiles, and fingers crossed, then i look forward to your next post
why have my trav tiles cracked
Don't be so assuming and patronising. There really is no need. Why would you look forward to something like that.
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Re: What are my options?
it was,nt meant to be taken literally, you asked for advice , were all in agreement the way it needs to be done ,
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Re: What are my options?
personally id rip it up and start from scratch,however ultra do a slc that can go upto 50mm in one pour.
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Re: What are my options?
For 50mm deep you'd be better patching it with sand/cement.
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