1st Job: Renovating the bathroom -- please advise--

[elatechi]

Hi all,

I have been reading a lot of posts and I would like to congratulate everyone for such a great way of sharing knowledge.

I'm a complete newbie so please bear with me.

I am renovating the bathroom and putting a new concealed shower/bath then planning to tile the whole room. I've started but taking everything off and spent the last weekend taking off the old tiles (floor and walls).

In the process the plasterboards around the bath (wet area) were damaged so I decided to replace with Marmox 12.5 as it would also act as insulation (big wall being an outside wall) and would save me time in tanking.

the remaining walls are painted so I will need to tackle the paint either by sanding down or get a steamer , then use a primer (bond SBR).

The floor is a cheapwood board (green one) so planning to cover with 6 mm marmox and install a UFH.

Could someone please help with the below questions?

1- After ripping off the dot and dabbed plasterboards, the adhesive still well glued to the wall. Can I just dot and dab again on the gaps and then use the washers and screw to the old dots?

2- Can I use the same adhesive to dot and dab and fix the tiles (floor and walls)? I am planning to use either Bal or Mapei Single part felxible adhesive.

3- What is the maximun time to wait for the primer before tiling on the ex-painted plasterboards?

4- I dont want to use a SLC for the UFH, can I just tile using the same adhesive?

finally, I noticed that the adhesives and grout are not water proof, only water resistent. Is there a better brand?

Thanks in advance and I do apologise for the long text and questions

M

[macten]

1. Remove old drywall adhesive (SDS drill/hammer will have it off in seconds) or hammer and bolster. Then screw boards to block work.

2. That addy will be fine (don't be dotting and dabbing the tiles though)

3. The brand I use is fine after a couple of hours - read label on the back.

4. You can but you need to be very careful not to damage the wires when trowelling. Can use plastic trowel and be prepared to backbutter the floor tiles to get the solid bed that is required. SLC is the best option and will be much faster in the long run - may even save you cash as less tile addy will be needed.

No cement based grouts and addys are water proof. Achieve a solid bed and grout well and it will be fine.

Good luck with the bathroom

[elatechi]

Thx for the help. On point 2 I meant if i could use the same adhesive to dot and dab the Marmox boards to the solid wall and also for floor and wall tiles

Thx again.