whats the best?

[spacedout]

As fixers we all do things a little bit different from each other! iv,e been using large format tiles for over 20 years and would like to know others opinions on this subject? It was common practice to use battern's to start your first course of tiles years ago, however we now have non-slip adhesives that hold these tiles up( Better than they were in the 80's i,m sure) On many projects we laser a line round the room, cut the bottom course into the floor from the line then have a solid support to take the weight of the next courses of tiles, with out the use of rapid set adhesives and tiles forcing away from the wall under there own weight. I never liked leaving the bottom course of tiles out and then cutting in later, as your joints went out or got smaller or bigger and noticed when grouted ( maybe it was just me?) am i just out of date or is this the only way? any help on this subject welcome

[Dave]

Did we have large format tiles 20 yrs ago..?

I cannot remember any..

[spacedout]

Langleys of london mate German tiles very hard as well

[andy tiler]

i use battens for everything cut the bottom row in after.

[Stewart]

Cut the bottom row in too..... Can't remember the last time I used a baton......


Created on iPhone.....

[Dave]

Langleys of london mate German tiles very hard as well

So 20+ yrs ago what did you class as large format.?

[deanotile]

So 20+ yrs ago what did you class as large format.?

300 by 300 and that was on floors*

[spacedout]

sorry David, yes mostly we were using 150mm x 150mm tiles up to 300mmx300mm which is far from large format. However we were using tiles 600mm x 600mm in 1987 on floors not so on walls. So sorry for miss informing you. Large format for me is any thing from 450mm x 450mm to 1200mm x 1200mm. dates are not really important, what im asking could be thanks mate,

[doug boardley]

I always cut the bottom row in as I go, laser level is a godsend for this. I think 10" x 8" were considered large 20 years ago

[Rich]

I always through a laser line around and cut in the bottom course, only use a baton when tiling over a window or alike. I dont like trusting cement based adhesive to hold up a tile as it tends to slide a little.

[spacedout]

THANK YOU GUYS FOR YOUR COMMENTS!
the size of tile may of concerned some. however there were tiles this size and more, before this time and beyond. Slabs of stone have been laid bigger than this on walls and floors for years. Just because we talk about tiles this does not just mean ceramics of the modern age!

[doug boardley]

I don't think I fixed anything comparable to tiles of the last 10 years for the first 20 years

[spacedout]

does anyone have an alternative to the above?

[spacedout]

good responses Doug i like it.

[doug boardley]

does anyone have an alternative to the above?

I think the only two choices are; a) battens, b) not battens
would be interesting to run a poll though I guess, to see who does and who doesn't.

[ROBSON MCGREGOR]

Very rarely we will baton a wall, strike a line, put your 1st row in then tile up from there, problem solved!!!

[Rich]

I would be interested to know how many people still used batons in every room and if they just do it because they always have or if that is the method that they prefer. As I have said I dont use them anymore because I dont think that it gains anything (apart from special occasions).

[doug boardley]

Very rarely we will baton a wall, strike a line, put your 1st row in then tile up from there, problem solved!!!

that's the beauty of a laser, you can still see the line once you've spread your addy.

[Stewart]

Setting out a job this week with the laser set for bottom row....


Created on iPhone.....

[Alan.P]

that's the beauty of a laser, you can still see the line once you've spread your addy.

yep,love a laser but if it's a plasterboard wall then a chalk line is fave, you canstill see it through the addy if you trowel it in the right direction, as for cuts etc, depends on the mood / tile / and substrate and addy. no real norm for me ???

[ROBSON MCGREGOR]

that's the beauty of a laser, you can still see the line once you've spread your addy.

Doug, As long as you know whats going on the floor then i dont have a problem bringing the floor up, unless the floor has to be tiled then i will batten then stick the bottom row in after i have tiled the floor.

[impish]

Once I bought a laser level, I changed from batoning to cutting my first row in.
Far faster for me now, and it's seen me switch more to using spf rather than rsf as I have confidence that my first row will hold the weight above.

[impish]

unless the floor has to be tiled then i will batten then stick the bottom row in after i have tiled the floor.

I think it "feels" better this way, but not sure if I can see the difference.
I seal all my internal corners with Mapeisil or Ottoseal, so you can't tell which way round it's been done.

[peteablard]

I think it "feels" better this way, but not sure if I can see the difference.
I seal all my internal corners with Mapeisil or Ottoseal, so you can't tell which way round it's been done.

I agree, if the floors are being tiled I use a batten and put the bottom row in after I've done the floor. If floors aren't being tiled I cut the bottom row in first.