Help!: brickwork style tiling... help!

[tony76]

Hi all, i am about to start tiling my bathroom walls , and i want to tile it brickwork style, i was wondering if anybody could give me any advice on starting this,and setting out, the tile size i am useing are 361mmx276mm, and 9mm thick, and going to use a 3mm spacer, as i want to tile the floor in the same tiles to
any idea on where i should start from? i was going to start 1 tile up from the bath ( although it will be about just over 3/4 of a tile, as the bath for some reason isnt level all the way around, would this be ok, or should i start 1 tile up from the floor?
also i believe the corners can be a problem with this style of tiling,any tips about that?

many thanks

[whitebeam]

Have you put two of the tile faces against each other to check thay are flat and are your walls flat as well..

Hi and welcome..

[Phil Hobson]

Hi are your tiles ceramic, porcelain? the size you are using hopefully won't cause any bowing problems, if you search the forums, looking for setting out methods. You might find some good tips, eg. making staffs, gauge sticks etc. Hope this helps, if not there are enough pro's on here to guide you through it step by step

[Phil Hobson]

Sorry Mark, I should have explained my bowing remark in more detail, yours puts it in a better way ( face to face)

[tony76]

thanks for the advice, the tiles i am using are ceramic ( marble effect ones frome b an q!), the walls are not perfectly flat, but nothing to major i hope! i have put the sprit level againt the corners and some of them are off, tht why i am worried about the corners, and where to start tiling from

[Mike]

the walls need to be really flat to get a good finish in brick bond. as for the corners try and have a full tile go round the corner, i.e. 1/3 then 2/3 of a tile or a 1/4 then 3/4 . you should start as close to the bottom as possible to avoid working downwards.

[Daz]

As Phil has advised, there are many methods for setting out the room. The key is to find a datum both horizontally and vertically that means that you get good cuts above bath, to floor & ceiling, around windows & doors and every other "obstacle" in the room. With brickbond I always try to carry the illusion of a full tile around a corner which can mean adjusting datums many times.
Search the forum for setting out tips, and whatever you do, don't rush the setting out as it will make or break your job.

Post some pics of the room and ask questions and we'll try and guide you through.
Good luck,

Daz

[whitebeam]

If you have a window I try to have that as a focal point..

[Phil Hobson]

If you centre each wall, to give a pleasing aesthetic effect, then by making a staff a piece of timber with tile joints marked on , you can set out each wall to give the best cuts. If you have a wall that is say 10mm out of plumb, and you need to start with a full and half tile.

You can find the most prominent part of the wall (top or bottom) and start your full/half tile, then scribe the rest of the cuts to suit. Hope this makes sense

[tony76]

bathroom 001.jpgbathroom 002.jpgbathroom 003.jpgbathroom 004.jpgbathroom 005.jpg these are pics of it from differnt angles

[hillhead]

As above, focal points are usually a window and basin.
Try to fold around corners as much or as close as possible.
A lot of b&q tiles are bent to so be careful, if bent/bowed build them straight either portrait or horizontal.
Good luck too Tony.

[tony76]

the way i have set it out at the moment, is i have drawn a straight line around the room, about just over 3/4 of a tile from the bath, i was going to start tiling from that line

[Phil Hobson]

Again I would say, make a staff. As above try to centre focal points, and also give the impression of brick bond wrap around corners, take your time, and research this fine forum. Good luck, and keep asking questions

[Mike]

have you considered tanking the shower walls before you tile them?

[Phil Hobson]

Sorry Joe, my slow typing again, same answer though

[tony76]

when you say fold around the corners, is that say 1/4 tile on 1 side and 3/4 to match it?
the main corners are the 2 corners where the window is, would that work there?
the other corner is where the wall meets the chimney breast
thanks all , for your help so far

[tony76]

i did thin kabout tanking yes, but the guy i was talking to at the plumbing centre, said i didnt really need to as it is not a wet room, and also there is some spray that he said, which you spray on after tiling to make it water repellent

[Daz]

The tiles you have chosen are manufactured by Johnsons and they are pretty true for size and flatness, so there's a positive for you .
Your setting out so far deals with the vertical, so....
Working with your datum, what cut size do you get above the window, to the ceiling, to the floor and above the door, please?

Daz

[Mike]

it still needs to be 'tanked' to be waterproof. the spray won't make it waterproof, just prevents discolouring and fungi.

[Phil Hobson]

when you say fold around the corners, is that say 1/4 tile on 1 side and 3/4 to match it?
the main corners are the 2 corners where the window is, would that work there?
the other corner is where the wall meets the chimney breast
thanks all , for your help so far

Yep, were you can. Sometimes trial & error, never fix your first tile until you know where your last tile will go

[Daz]

With regards to tanking, how frequently will the shower be used? 3 people twice a day? 1 person twice a week?

Cheers,

Daz

[tony76]

ive not checked the size cuts around the window, but from the line i have drawn, it works out about say just under half a tile to the ceiling, and to the floor id say about 2 or 3inchs need to be cut ( its weird because it seems 1 wall is shorter than the other)

[Daz]

ive not checked the size cuts around the window, but from the line i have drawn, it works out about say just under half a tile to the ceiling, and to the floor id say about 2 or 3inchs need to be cut ( its weird because it seems 1 wall is shorter than the other)

Yep that's normal .

Check all cuts before you start, the last thing you need is a surprise "slither cut".
Daz

[tony76]

thanks Daz, it will be one person useing the shower, a couple of times a week , i did ask at the merchats about tanking, but the guy there didnt think id need to, as not a wet room, and he recommemded some stuff i could buy after tiling instead ( i dont think he was trying to have me over because the spray he was on about was cheaper than the tanking kit they sell

[tony76]

thanks lol my house isnt falling down then with the short walls!, ohh yes i want to avoid them dreaded slivers!, thats why am paranoid about the corners and where to start!, gonna have to have some small slivers though, where the radiaotor pipes run down the wall, there right near the door

[Daz]

The walls will have plenty of time to dry between the showering frequency so I would not be stressing about tanking. As for the spray, it will most likely be Sealguard (which is pretty good but stinks when you apply it), and IMO is not necessary.

Daz

[tony76]

bathroom 003.jpg with this corner would it be better to use a full tile all the way down ( as it is just under a tiles length) or would it be better to carry on the brickbond style ? any ideas anyone??

[tony76]

oh and what tool is best for cutting small cutts of a tile ( so i can get the corners flush) a tile saw or tile nippers?
thanks

[peteablard]

bathroom 003.jpg with this corner would it be better to use a full tile all the way down ( as it is just under a tiles length) or would it be better to carry on the brickbond style ? any ideas anyone??

Carrying the brickbond around it would look best

[peteablard]

I've just read that you've put a line round above the bath and were going to tile up from this. You'd be better off transfering the line down the wall just leaving the bottom cuts out. Put a baton round the room and tile up from it, when the adhesive has set remove the baton and put the bottom cuts in