Shower from hell

[gixer]

Hi all newbie here so take it easy on me

Ok so just ripped out an existing shower , it had recentlystarted leaking through to downstairs . Originally done by a " proper " tiler , so thought to myself , with the right advice , i think i could do a better job myself .
This is were you guys come in
I will try and stage my questions as work progresses rather than bombard everyone with 101 questions right at the start .
So to start the floor needs re-tiled , slight bit of water damage on existing chipboard floor .
Am i better to lift and replace whole floor with WBP ply and treat the ply with Bal bond SBR ?bathroom pics 001.jpgbathroom pics 002.jpg

I have attached a couple of pics which i hope will help

Many thanks Gixer

[whitebeam]

I would and add some extra nogging just for some extra stability...

The plasterboard should replaced as well, looking at the damage the water caused..as it's in the shower could use hardie backer boards.

[Bri]

Replace the floor with 18mm ply and, as above, add some extra noggins to the joists while you've got the floor up. Over board the ply with 6mm cement board (stuck and screwed) and also as above use hardie boards to replace the damaged plasterboard, use a 12mm one on the walls though. Welcome along to the forum.

[gixer]

Many thanks for the informative replies guys , whilst waiting for my first post to activate i went ahead and started to lift a small portion of the floor to aid the drying out processbathroom pics 003.jpgbathroom pics 004.jpgbathroom pics 005.jpg As you can see the old shower made quite a mess .

So to recap next step lift entire floor (as chipboard should probably never been used in a shower room in the first place) replace with 18mm wbp ply , treat underside and edges with Bal bond sbr , then some 6mm hardieback board stuck on top of the ply with tile adhesive and screwed .....
Now i have exposed the joists do i still need extra noggins ???

Thanks again Gixer

[whitebeam]

I would, it will stop any twisting in the joists...you have a very dark area at the end of a joist, have you checked it out..

[gixer]

I,m no expert Whitebeam , but it appears to be sound ie not rotten , but i agree the black on it is unsightly

[gixer]

Ok guys , so i have my new ply screwed down and primed underside and edges .
Do i need to apply SBR primer to topside of ply before putting my cement board down ?
Problem no 2 is the cement board , when i asked local builder merchants they hadnt heard of it or didnt stock it .I did manage to find one that got some in for me but i,m concerned it may not be the right stuff , it is white in colour and looks more an asbestos replacement board . One side is shiny and one side has a bit of texture , it is called resistant multi pro , and the merchant said it is water proof .
Your thoughts very much appreciated .

Regards Gixer

[Sir Ramic]

No to priming the board face.
Not sure on the boards you have , never heard of Multi Pro. A quick google gave me a site to look at, do you have the Moist-Sure Multi Pro boards ?

[gixer]

Thanks Sir Ramic ,
I just googled it myself , appears to be a local firm manufacturing these so i will give them a call in the morning , but i fear i have not the right boards as their site lists board sizes of the Moistsure as 1200x1200 or 1200x800mm and mine are 2400x1200. Thankfully i have not started to put them down yet .

Regards Gixer

[stoner]

Hi there,

google 'no more ply'. It's around £8 per .72m2 board. I rarely use the stuff as i prefer to stick with backer boards.

[whitebeam]

Then you have the price of the glue as well..

[gixer]

Quick update on my wee project ... phoned cement board manufacturer who said the board i have is the same as their Moist-sure board only they cut it into smaller sizes for convenience .
So proceeded with putting my boards down..Attachment 31363Attachment 31364So tomorrows project is to fit 12mm cement board to the one stud wall .
On the other solid wall should i be stripping off the existing render even though i propose to tank both these walls ?

Other question is when fitting the shower tray ( which i presume needs done prior to tiling the floor ) is there a better way to raise the shower tray other than wooden studs ?


Thanks in advance Gixer
SoAttachment 31365

[whitebeam]

Is the other wall sand/cement or a gypsum undercoat and finish..the term render can be used loosely for different finishes.

[gixer]

Hi whitebeam , its sand/cement with finish . The bottom 300mm of finish doesnt look in the best of shape .

[gixer]

Hi whitebeam , its sand/cement with finish . The bottom 300mm of finish doesnt look in the best of shape .<BR>

[Gazebo]

Hi you can raise a shower tray with an upstand kit (easy plumb kit) but these are usually dedicated to each specific tray.


Some are just plastic leg sets that slot in to pre made holes on the underside of the tray, some are pieces of ply wood with legs screwed to the underside of ply, some are made of box section steel and you assemble them yourself(bathstore).

you could just cut yourself a template of the underside of the tray from 18mm wbp and screw adjustable legs (kitchen base unit legs work.)to the ply. if you do this be sure to leave the ply slightly shy of the exposed edge of the tray so your tile can sit flush to the underside of the tray if you are tiling the upstand that is.

[gixer]

Hi you can raise a shower tray with an upstand kit (easy plumb kit) but these are usually dedicated to each specific tray.


Some are just plastic leg sets that slot in to pre made holes on the underside of the tray, some are pieces of ply wood with legs screwed to the underside of ply, some are made of box section steel and you assemble them yourself(bathstore).

you could just cut yourself a template of the underside of the tray from 18mm wbp and screw adjustable legs (kitchen base unit legs work.)to the ply. if you do this be sure to leave the ply slightly shy of the exposed edge of the tray so your tile can sit flush to the underside of the tray if you are tiling the upstand that is.

Thanks Gazebo for the info , After reading the fitting instructions for the tray it appears they do a leg set and panel kit but after phoning the supplier they dont have any in stock and would have to order one in for me . This would hold the job back as i wouldnt be able to tile the floor , Or could i tile right in below the tray as i think i have enough tiles .???
Also if i ran with your idea of ply/kitchen unit legs , what would be the best way of sticking the plyto the underside of the tray ???

Thanks once again Gixer