Another newbie needing a bit (lot) of help

[k13ehr]

Dear k13ehr,
Thanks for registering at TilersForums.co.uk! The UK's Bussiest and Biggest Tile Website. We are glad you have chosen to be a part of our community and we hope you enjoy your stay.

Ta Dan, Be prepared for lots of silly questions, Your starter for ten is:-

I just bought a Ferm radial tile saw from Ebay 180mm blade, I don't care for the table saw type, the overhead sliding blade seems more logical for my fuddled old brain, as the tile stays still and the blade moves less chance of wobble, however the blade has wear marks at 180degrees on the same side , but all the way around on the flip side, I can't imagine what would cause this type of wear but it's only a cheap blade, can't remember the make, but it's grass green, and they're about £4-5 at Screwyou up.

Question one is which would be my best value for money blade to replace it with as it feels quite smooth around the rim of the blade.

I've been watching tiling on You tube for some tips an d I often see a batten near the bottom of the wall being tiled and I'd like to know the reasoning behind this as I was going to just tile off the bath side (100% level) and work from there, as you might have guessed I don't have any speakers on my PC.

Question two, why the battens.

I'm going to tile the window reveal, but hate those awful plastic/metal strips everyone seems to use, seems a bit lazy to me, I bought this tile saw so I could do mitres, however never done any before, they're not big tile 12x 8 ish ceramic, dark mink ish brown coloured, (girly colour) oh for the days when three edges were glazed, I wonder just how much they save.

Question three, any tips before I start binning lots of tiles, and I assume no one ever gets this perfect so is there a cheat to dress them up afterwards, also bearing in mind possible sharp edges.

I'm planning to do a lanscape brickwork style rather than noughts and crosses, is there any special way to start off, I know wall centre is common, but I planned on starting in one of the corners you see when entering the room, one is where the bath taps are the other is where the vertical pipes need boxing in, so a little leeway on positioning there, but not much, there will be a 75mm ish cut at staggered ends, no matter what I do.

I'm using Bal wp1 as a means of waterproofing, and Bal grip to whack em up with got some B&Q "waterproof" adhesive/grout for the less wet areas, I have two bathrooms to do, a utility room and a kitchen, just born lucky I suppose.

I should point out I am NOT trade hence the stupid questionsSo there I am, awaiting some expert advice on how not to bugger it all up, as our lass'll kill me.

Cheers Kev.

[dptiling]

you will learn to like tile edge trim after you,ve mitred a few out of square windows lol.

[impish]

I finished early today so I'll try and help!

Completely stuck as to blade wear - maybe it's the way you're describing it?! Dunno, sorry!
Best blades I've used are Montolit DNA but Marcrist are popular too. Expect not much change from £50 for the cheaper blades though.

I would seriously suggest using edge trims. Doesn't have to be plastic of course, perhaps a straight edged chrome or steel would look nice?
No offence, but mitreing is best left to experienced pros with top quality saws. Even then, many would say no!
Diamond rubbing pads are used to "smooth" the rough glazed edges.

Battens are generally used to support the first row upwards. Spend some time making sure that IF you run off the bath, it works well all around the room. If not - use battens!

The BAL gear is fine but I wouldn't use any B&Q grout (you do know it's not really waterproof?!) spend a few more pounds and use a decent grout like Mapei ultracolor plus or BAL microflex (if they still make it!?).

Best advice I can give: fail to prepare = prepare to fail. Preparation is everything when you tackle your first tiling jobs.

Best wishes - Mark

[k13ehr]

Well if it was easy we'd all be doing it

I like a challenge, I just hope I'm up to it.

I couldn't wait any longer so I've made a start, but had to remove a couple of tiles I was less than happy with.


While I'm on, a quick query, I'm using a ferm overhead saw and I don't think it's right the way it works.

What I mean is I think it's previously been owed by a left handed person, and I'm finding it awkward to use.

As you look at the attached picture, the handle is over to the right, the on/off switch is below it. the blade rotates clockwise as it's viewed here. The mitre gauge slides as far as the centre.

But the only ways to use it are either right handed and pull or left handed and push, I feel there would be more control pushing but I'm right handed.

Any ideas form the forum, I could make the alterations, but I don't want to make the situation worse.


Cheers Kev.

[impish]

Hi Kev, My bridge saws are all pull action with the blade spinning clock-wise, handle on the right.
You're just looking at it from the wrong angle (so to speak!)

[k13ehr]

I finished early today so I'll try and help!

Completely stuck as to blade wear - maybe it's the way you're describing it?! Dunno, sorry!
Best blades I've used are Montolit DNA but Marcrist are popular too. Expect not much change from £50 for the cheaper blades though.

I would seriously suggest using edge trims. Doesn't have to be plastic of course, perhaps a straight edged chrome or steel would look nice?
No offence, but mitreing is best left to experienced pros with top quality saws. Even then, many would say no!
Diamond rubbing pads are used to "smooth" the rough glazed edges.

Battens are generally used to support the first row upwards. Spend some time making sure that IF you run off the bath, it works well all around the room. If not - use battens!

The BAL gear is fine but I wouldn't use any B&Q grout (you do know it's not really waterproof?!) spend a few more pounds and use a decent grout like Mapei ultracolor plus or BAL microflex (if they still make it!?).

Best advice I can give: fail to prepare = prepare to fail. Preparation is everything when you tackle your first tiling jobs.

Best wishes - Mark

Thanks Mark,

Yup, I figured that the B&Q rubbish would be just that, but it'll do for areas where water is less of a problem, that Bal gear is spensive innit.

I got a £20 blade from Screwup it seems to be cutting fine if I take my time, I'll mess around setting the saw up for mitres before I dive in.

Not seen any diamond rubbing pads though, only a lattice like rasp thing, not exactly finesse though.

I don't expect a perfect result, but hopefully it'll be presentable.

Cheers Kev.