bad walls

[russ1980]

Started tiling kitchen splash backs today (first time tiling).The walls are that bad i found myself spreading the wall and tile.Started with a 6mm trowel and had to change upto a 10mm.Are the tiles likely to hold or not?I used bal green star and primed the walls with mapei primer.What would of been the best way to of rectified the walls?I thought about dot and dabing with plasterboard so i could of got a nice flat surface.Many thanks in advance.

Face on the tiling looks good but looking down the wall its not to clever.

[Bri]

Preparation is the key to a successful tiling job, either a reskim or overboard. For future reference if you are going to build tiles out that much don't use a tubbed adhesive (use a powdered cement based one), it'll take forever to dry and shouldn't be put on that thick. Also try not to mix your brands of primer and adhesive.

[kilty55]

hi russ you can skim wall and also tiles but not with that addy,iiod be amazed if they stayed on tbh

[russ1980]

The adhesive seems to of dried and the tiles seem pretty solid.Is there anychance that they will hold or is that just wishful thinking.

[timeless john]

With that type of adhesive you would have to let the joints dry for more than specified time with adhesive at that depth.
Drying of tubbed adhesive will depend on the substrate and tile type.
When Bal Tad was the main tubbed adhesive in the early 70's we would build out walls to whatever depth was required and we never had a problem.
Then we received our education with the influx of many poor tubbed adhesives and the restrictions followed.

My only real advice is prepare the walls for tiling 1st, and don't expect the adhesive to make the job straight/flat for you.

[widler]

i now always plaster my walls 1st (unless they are already straight),having tiled walls in the past which were as drunk as i was last night,i have found the time it takes to dub out,you may as well take the time plastering/boarding

[russ1980]

UPDATE
Have stripped the tiles off.I will plasterboard the wall and start again.many thanks for your comments

[northstar]

had the adhesive dried ?

[davebates]

bad luck dude !!!

[Phil Hobson]

With that type of adhesive you would have to let the joints dry for more than specified time with adhesive at that depth.
Drying of tubbed adhesive will depend on the substrate and tile type.
When Bal Tad was the main tubbed adhesive in the early 70's we would build out walls to whatever depth was required and we never had a problem.
Then we received our education with the influx of many poor tubbed adhesives and the restrictions followed.

My only real advice is prepare the walls for tiling 1st, and don't expect the adhesive to make the job straight/flat for you.

As TJ says when Bal Tad was the king of tubbed adhesives we never had any problems. If I ever use ready mixed (very rarely, I must add) I use Biscem by Bostic. It is very much like the old Bal Tad. Good stuff imo

[russ1980]

i'm going to dot and dab the walls do i need any fixings in the boards.What sort of working life does the powdered adhesive have as i'm not a very quick tiler and don't want to have to keep mixing up small batches.

[Bri]

Put a few in each board, make sure you put the fixings through the dabs before they dry. You can get slow setting powdered adhesives that can sit in a bucket all day (8 hrs).

[Sean Kelly]

Russ, Not knowing how wonky the wall is have you considered Hardibacker board (it's only 6mm) and can be glued (with addy) & screwed to the wall. I'm just thinking that plasterboard may be a little too thick. Are there any electric sockets on the splashback because you might have to invest in some extra long screws for the sockets. Good luck. Sean

[russ1980]

i did consider the backer board but its alot more expensive than 9mm plasterboard.cheers

[whitebeam]

If you use 9.5mm boards use more adhesive.

[Lodger]

I know its a little late, but I would use moisture proof boards too. They are more dens and good for around sink areas.

[whitebeam]

They only come in 12.5mm and 8x4..