how to deal with gap at end of bath

[Freyanne]

I got home from work very late tonight and found my plumber had been and moved the bath into the space, fastened to wall and connected the taps. Although he told me the bath fitted perfectly a few weeks ago [at which stage I could easily have boarded one of the end walls] now there is a 1.5 cm gap at one end. How do I deal with this as I've already tiled the walls on all 3 sides - just expected to be tiling the bottom row this weekend. Hopefully the picture will explain.

[Freyanne]

[Daz]

Hmmm, I can visualise your issue but cannot see the pic - doh!

Can you fabricate a small amount of boxing at the end of the bath and tile that too?

[Daz]

Aargh, I can see the pic now.

I should have read 15mm gap and not 150mm gap, too - I'll get me coat!

[Prem Tiler]

What dimentions are the tiles you are fixing? You'll be suprised how big a gap can be hidden just by tile and adhesive

[Daz]

It's not ideal, but could you wedge a load of silicone into the gap and line the wall with a cement board?

[whitebeam]

Is there any chance to get him back to move the bath but break out the wall so the bath can be pushed back to hide the edges, if you see what I mean.

[jay]

you may need to overboard that wall to make it up

[Onlinetiler]

i guess you cant board the wall out now as its already tiled except the bottom course. The ideal scenario has to be to move the bath - are the ends of the bath wall to wall? If so could you budge it 7.5mm along to split the 15mm gap at each end in which case a decent quality silicone or tube of polyurethane adhesive (the type you use on tile backer boards) will fill and waterproof the gap and the thickness of the tile and adhesive should cover it. If you're stuck with the gap at one end and it isn't covered by the tiles then maybe a bath trim - I'm not a big fan of them but they do serve a purpose - Sealux do a range of profiles that will bridge gaps up to 25mm. You could also fit a good old fashioned HR Johnsons ceramic bath trim which comes in 15cm lengths and is fixed on with silicone after the tiles are installed.

[doug boardley]

I'd be tempted to overboard the wall if there's internal corners both ends of it.

[tfs]

hi mate, if your tiles are large format (probs 8mm thick) and your adhesive bed will be atleast a few mm you wont have much of a gap left to seal.

I think you might get away with it mate.

what size depth of tile are you using?

[Alan.P]

As has been said, move the bath to equalise the gap, then a good silicone bead will take up the gap, which won't be much once tile plus adhesive have gone onto the wall.

[Bathfix Bob]

The gap doesn't look all that big but he should have equalised the gap.


Has the bath edge been siliconed and then squashed against the wall?

Has he used supporting timber underneath?

Does the bath feel solid?

If no to any of the above he has not fitted it right, there must a silicone seal from bath to wall before tiling, the secondry tile/bath seal needs something to fall back on when it fails.

[Freyanne]

Thanks guys! Overboarding is not an option at this stage - the walls on all 3 sides of the bath have already been tiled to the ceiling.

Tiles are 400 x 250 mm and about 9mm thick so equalising the gap might just work. I'll move the bath along a few mm before I tile the last row. Have just realised it's in place but not yet fixed to the wall. It was my job to silicone around the bath before tiling to be fair. There are no supporting battens but the supports that come with the bath are very solid - it's a very good quality bath.

[Bathfix Bob]

Is there a shower going over this bath? If so I would glue the bath to the wall with silicone (tiler primer on first) to give a water tight seal.

There must be ZERO movment on all four corners.

[Freyanne]

Yes Bob, there is a shower going over the bath - I suppose that was my plumber's rationale for leaving the gap at the end opposite to the shower end.

If I equalise and silicone the gaps, fix the wall plates then tile and silicone again do you think I'll be ok?

[YourTiler]

If the tiles are not touching the bath, you could tile from under the bath to meet the tiles above and see what gap you then have. As said above you'll be surprised what gap is left to silicone

[easyt]

If the bath is centralised you will have 8mm gaps? Tiles would then overhang by a few mm. Problem is though does the bath have much of a radius round on the ends?

[Freyanne]

Sorry - what is a radius round? The end corners are curved if that's what it means - see the photo on page 1.

I've moved and siliconed all round the bath and will leave it to go off overnight before starting to tile tomorrow. Fingers crossed.

Thanks again everyone. :-)

[easyt]

No F. What I meant is that there is a vertical curve from the top edge of the bath over the end towards the floor. Depending how big the radious is it is likely that even though the tile is over the edge of the bath the top surface of the bath will backfall towards the tiles and hold water.

[Graham100]

I wouldn't try and fill any gap myself. 2 Options that I can see, move the bath or overboard the wall. I don't see why the plumber shouldn't set the bath properly, he must have seen what was going to happen.

[craig1010]

I'd centre the bath and apply a good bead of silicone. Tile bottom row and build out the bottom of the tile at both ends of the bath. After grouting, apply a neatly finished bead of silicone.

[Freyanne]

No F. What I meant is that there is a vertical curve from the top edge of the bath over the end towards the floor. Depending how big the radious is it is likely that even though the tile is over the edge of the bath the top surface of the bath will backfall towards the tiles and hold water.

Thank you easyt - yes, there is a little radius round. I got the cut tiles on today and think I'll get away with a wider than normal bead of silicone. Fingers crossed.

[Graham100]

Hope you do OK with it, what about some sort of seal strip?

[Freyanne]

Over the tiles do you mean Graham? Not sure how that would look.

[Graham100]

I know, but beggars and choosers stc. I really would not have any confidence in a 'stretched' silicone bead. Shame to spoil a brand new job. Can't you get the plumber back?

[easyt]

I used a seal strip when I did bathroom for OH before she moved in. ( 6 yrs ago ?) The one I used looked and worked fine but it went under and behind the bottom row of tiles and was L shape and held firmly down under tension by th etiles.

[Graham100]

Yes I agree, I use them occasionally. There is a slimmer type available, whcih is almost flat, it's a sticky back 'L' shape and you can then put a very fine bead of silicone along the top edge maybe?

[Graham100]

Here ya go
http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/nav.jsp?action=detail&fh_secondid=9277965&fh_locat ion=//catalog01/en_GB/categories%3C{9372013}/categories%3C{9372031}/categories%3C{9372100}/specificationsProductType=sealants&ecamp=cse_go&CA WELAID=266978497

[Freyanne]

The plumber coming back isn't an issue, he's still on site - will be fitting toilet and WHB tomorrow. It's more that I would have to rip out expensive tiles that I have spent time putting up and which would not be salvageable for re-use. If I am still concerned after siliconing I'll get some of the ceramic bath trims that Onlinetiler mentioned, I'd prefer not to have to use them but will if I need to.