Tile up to or above curved cooker hood?

[jazzhands]

I am about to start tiling a kitchen which has a fixed curved glass cooker hood. The glass can't come away from the wall because the screw holes for securing the glass don't allow for any movement.




As far as I see it I have 3 options (hopefully they make sense):

1. Finish the tile height up the splashback at the same level as the bottom of the wall cupboards leaving a gap between the top row of tiles and cooker hood that can then be emulsioned
2. Tile up to the glass on the cooker hood - bit of curved cutting to do to take in the shape and then stop there
3. Tile up past the height of the glass on the cooker hood to finish level with the top of the wall cupboards - even more awkward cutting and the pelmet will not be going all the way across

Tile options.jpg

What would you do?

[AndyBob.]

Hello jazzhands personally I would go for drawing 3 and tile the full splashback. Can you not remove the hood and re-fix after tiling? That is what I would do in this situation.

[andy allen]

dose the cooker hood width go from cuboard to cuboard (no gap each side)

[jazzhands]

dose the cooker hood width go from cuboard to cuboard (no gap each side)

The cooker hood is 600mm wide and the gap 800mm so 100mm either side of the widest point of the glass curve.

[garretridge]

if you cant remove i would go for option 3 as well but much better to remove and do all if possible!

[AndyBob.]

I am about to start tiling a kitchen which has a fixed curved glass cooker hood. The glass can't come away from the wall because the screw holes for securing the glass don't allow for any movement.

jazzhands The hoods like this that I've tilled behind are usually mounted on the wall via slotted holes. I dont remove the glass but the whole hood.

[jazzhands]

The hood is one of these:
cooker hood.jpg

It comes in 2 sections that allow the flue to extend to the ceiling (flue splits in 2). I could probably remove the lower section with the glass hood and tile behind it then drill the new mounting holes through the tiles. At some point though where the top of the tiles ends the upper section of the flue will end up being back to the wall and so will look like it has a gap at the front where the 2 sections slide together or a gap at the back against the wall where I have had to stand the upper section off the wall to make it a continuous vertical run upwards - yikes did that actually make sense!
Another knock up - side on:
Side on.jpg

[Deri]

Myself I would pull the hood off (the sort you describe are easy to remove ad put back), tile up, re-drill through the tile and put the hood back up. I
It's either fiddle about with cutting tiles or fiddle about with the hood.

[andy allen]

if you are adament the hood wont come of then go for 2 and finish the nearest full tile to the hood.

[deanotile]

like this for me

[Billy Hunt]

I,m having a run of these curved hoods.done one this week and got one tommorow,I just locate the fixing screws and bringe the hood out enough to wang some tiles behind,usually only two screws holding the thing on.

[aph257]

I'd goo for option 2 if you can't take the hood off.

[david campbell]

like this for me

thats similar to mine
and the way i would always do it if i couldn't get the hood off

[Phil Hobson]

I'm with Deano and David on this option 3 every time, done loads this way. It's what tilers do we cut around awkward shapes, I will try and find some pictures. Happy cutting

[hillhead]

I always cut around the hoods myself,or at least mark it and get helper to cut it.lol.

[Dave]

I'd goo for option 2 if you can't take the hood off.

I do the same, if no fly over then it can look top heavy if stopped at the cornice..cut to the curve and stop there..

[macten]

Cut round!

[Scott]

Option 2 for me