I'd like to add to that a little known but very useful setting out trick which can be used either to avoid awkward cuts at the edges or to give another option on the position of a border if you want the field tile edges to be cut corner to corner.
The standard setting out is off the centre line but it might result in tiny cuts on the edge or, in the case when you want a border tile, might be too large or too small.
You set out your centre lines as the Dean's pdf file. You then calculate the length of a tile plus one grout space on the diagonal. For instance if you were using a 330mm tile plus 4mm grout it would be the diagonal of 334mm which is 472mm. You then multiply that by 25% which is 118mm.
You can then offset your centre lines by 118mm and you will still have equal cuts either side of the room but have another option on the width of the border. You can offset one centre line only or both. The only place there might be any noticable difference is in the corners but even that's not noticable.
It sounds impossible but it works. Trust me, I used to be a setting out engineer amongst other things.
the 3/4 set out sandy is a great way of adjusting cut size on the diagonal and its not obvious that the cut size alternates from left hand to right hand side ,top tip
I'd like to add to that a little known but very useful setting out trick which can be used either to avoid awkward cuts at the edges or to give another option on the position of a border if you want the field tile edges to be cut corner to corner.
The standard setting out is off the centre line but it might result in tiny cuts on the edge or, in the case when you want a border tile, might be too large or too small.
You set out your centre lines as the Dean's pdf file. You then calculate the length of a tile plus one grout space on the diagonal. For instance if you were using a 330mm tile plus 4mm grout it would be the diagonal of 334mm which is 472mm. You then multiply that by 25% which is 118mm.
You can then offset your centre lines by 118mm and you will still have equal cuts either side of the room but have another option on the width of the border. You can offset one centre line only or both. The only place there might be any noticable difference is in the corners but even that's not noticable.
It sounds impossible but it works. Trust me, I used to be a setting out engineer amongst other things.
I can't quite get my head around why it's 1/4, and not a half, but I take your word for it Sandy, and will give it a go if the centre line gives me dodgy cuts. Many thanks for the tip.
I can't quite get my head around why it's 1/4, and not a half, but I take your word for it Sandy, and will give it a go if the centre line gives me dodgy cuts. Many thanks for the tip.
the quarter set gives an offset cut giving a 3/4 and 1/4 cut on the left and right side, the next tile up or down from the first course will have a 1/4tile cut on the left and a 3/4 tile cut on the right the floor still looks symmetrical as on first glance its doesn't immediately notice it helps eliminate small diagonal cuts and evens the cut sizes out well
the quarter set gives an offset cut giving a 3/4 and 1/4 cut on the left and right side, the next tile up or down from the first course will have a 1/4tile cut on the left and a 3/4 tile cut on the right the floor still looks symmetrical as on first glance its doesn't immediately notice it helps eliminate small diagonal cuts and evens the cut sizes out well
Now I understand. Thanks for the extra explanation.
i have some more but they are form tasks that were don when i had the center. some of them may not be relevant. but i will post them if people are interested.
i have some more but they are form tasks that were don when i had the center. some of them may not be relevant. but i will post them if people are interested.
If they're as clear & helpful as this one, they'd be very welcome. Go for it!
Dean, you're a star. Many, many thanks for this. Any good tips for how to ping a chalk line if you're on your own? Fix one end under a box of tiles?
Has your chalk line got a ring at one end? If so get some concrete nails, then take one and tap it into the subfloor a few mm far enough so that it will hold the tension of the line when you pull it tight then walk to the other room pull it tight and ping it to your marks, then just remove your nail. Job done!
Just check theres no pipes to close to the surface
that would be my fear. think i'm going to avoid hammering anything into the floor. pipes should be a good 3cm below the surface, but sod's law says that the pipes weren't clipped properly & have floated towards the surface.
Has your chalk line got a ring at one end? If so get some concrete nails, then take one and tap it into the subfloor a few mm far enough so that it will hold the tension of the line when you pull it tight then walk to the other room pull it tight and ping it to your marks, then just remove your nail. Job done!
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