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Discuss Dot and Dabbing plasterboard in the Tiling Forum at TilersForums; I'm going to dot and dab plasterboard onto brickwork tomorrow, not done any before, so i'm just wondering are there any do's and donts. Any advice will be appreciated....
          
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    Default Dot and Dabbing plasterboard

    I'm going to dot and dab plasterboard onto brickwork tomorrow, not done any before, so i'm just wondering are there any do's and donts. Any advice will be appreciated.

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    Default Re: Dot and Dabbing plasterboard

    Are they to external walls or internal
    "Experience is simply the name we give our mistakes"

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    Default Re: Dot and Dabbing plasterboard

    Flour and water is not an appropriate wall board adhesive......

    best of luck with it.
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    Default Re: Dot and Dabbing plasterboard

    internal whitebeam, only about 3 msq around a door

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    doug boardley
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    Default Re: Dot and Dabbing plasterboard

    make sure your bricks are dust free Phil, I normally give them a coat of SBR 3:1, dont scrimp on the adhesive

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    Default Re: Dot and Dabbing plasterboard

    Cheers douge, i did give the a good brushing, but didn't think about sbr. i was thing pva

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    Default Re: Dot and Dabbing plasterboard

    I think in this instance, pva would be ok, I just use SBR cos I don't use pva when tiling, so I never have it in my van but always have SBR

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    Default Re: Dot and Dabbing plasterboard

    Uneven walls can be straightened by first surveying the wall with a combination of levels and string to identify low and high points of the wall. Low points will require deeper dots and dabs, low points will require shallower dots and dabs.

    Once the dots and dabs have been applied, offer the board up to the all. Allow the adhesive to grab but do not press home.
    Use a combination of levels and straight edges to now check that the board has no undulations both horizontally and vertically. Also use a level to check that the board is vertical. Using a known straight edge, the manufactured edge of a piece of plasterboard is ideal and can be cut to any size that is needed. Tap the board in a place where it will correct any deviations from the desired line. Do not tap with your level as it will become damaged.
    Once the board is level, tap it firmly home for final positioning.
    "Experience is simply the name we give our mistakes"

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    Default Re: Dot and Dabbing plasterboard

    Thanks for that whitebeam.

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    Default Re: Dot and Dabbing plasterboard

    [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m-FP_dbL9iA&feature=related]YouTube - INSTA - STIK - MP[/ame]

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    Default Re: Dot and Dabbing plasterboard

    same as whitebeam ,dont be shy on the add , good old whack to the wall
    be good at 1 thing ,not average at lots

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    Default Re: Dot and Dabbing plasterboard

    Quote Originally Posted by whitebeam View Post
    Uneven walls can be straightened by first surveying the wall with a combination of levels and string to identify low and high points of the wall. Low points will require deeper dots and dabs, low points will require shallower dots and dabs.

    Once the dots and dabs have been applied, offer the board up to the all. Allow the adhesive to grab but do not press home.
    Use a combination of levels and straight edges to now check that the board has no undulations both horizontally and vertically. Also use a level to check that the board is vertical. Using a known straight edge, the manufactured edge of a piece of plasterboard is ideal and can be cut to any size that is needed. Tap the board in a place where it will correct any deviations from the desired line. Do not tap with your level as it will become damaged.
    Once the board is level, tap it firmly home for final positioning.


    Ditto

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    Default Re: Dot and Dabbing plasterboard

    aqua blue quote;

    Good for very flat walls, if the walls are all over the place can it be built up with the foam.

    Insulation boards need mechanical fixings because if there was heat/fire in the area it will melt the foam and it could fall away from the wall
    Last edited by whitebeam; 10-03-2010 at 08:24 PM.
    "Experience is simply the name we give our mistakes"

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    Default Re: Dot and Dabbing plasterboard

    That new product went down like a lead baloon!!

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    Default Re: Dot and Dabbing plasterboard

    hi phil

    nicely explained by mark..

    i tend to cut all my boards 1st so that your ready to put them straight up when you've mixed you adhesive.

    you can apply the dabs to the wall using a the back of a bucket trowel flicked on and pressed off in 1 action if you get my drift? - i use a trowel and hawk to apply adhesive.

    keep the boards off the floor, place a couple of pieces of plasterboard underneath them.

    make sure you get a full bed of adhesive around all the light switches and any sockets (if there are any)

    hope this helps
    ed

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    Default Re: Dot and Dabbing plasterboard

    Its a lot easier than you think Phil. If your a tiler or plasterer you'll have a pretty good idea if its flat on the wall by running your hand over it.

    I was in trepidation the first time i tried it but found it easy. I guarantee once you have done it, you'll be doing a hell of a lot more in the future!! Hope it goes well for you and Whats the worst than can happen? Take it down and try again, might cost you a tenner in materials.

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    Default Re: Dot and Dabbing plasterboard

    Quote Originally Posted by aqua blue View Post
    That new product went down like a lead baloon!!
    Used it lots Aqua but wont tile on it, made that mistake and took the sheet down before the tiles had even gone off! Its good stuff and does stick but not as well as board sticky IMO

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    Default Re: Dot and Dabbing plasterboard

    Quote Originally Posted by AstonTiling View Post
    hi phil

    nicely explained by mark..

    i tend to cut all my boards 1st so that your ready to put them straight up when you've mixed you adhesive.

    you can apply the dabs to the wall using a the back of a bucket trowel flicked on and pressed off in 1 action if you get my drift? - i use a trowel and hawk to apply adhesive.

    keep the boards off the floor, place a couple of pieces of plasterboard underneath them.

    make sure you get a full bed of adhesive around all the light switches and any sockets (if there are any)

    hope this helps
    ed
    Same as mate, on an external wall seal the ceiling line as well, it stops air flow behind the board.

    Helps with the thermals
    "Experience is simply the name we give our mistakes"

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    Default Re: Dot and Dabbing plasterboard

    I got a goody pack a few years ago , t shirt , samples etc of insta stick

    its good for fixing skirtings to D&D plasterboard but not much else, the plasteres on the job I was on at the time wouldnt entertain it on price alone
    I know nothing I havent learnt
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    Default Re: Dot and Dabbing plasterboard

    A can is equivalent to a bag of addy! Its great for reveals but i only use it on small bits now

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    Default Re: Dot and Dabbing plasterboard

    I used the Screwfix version of foam on a garage coversion and a large front room recently and found it great stuff, Quick and clean and you can plaster on it almost straight away but only good if the walls are plumb as their is no play with it. With thermal boards buiding regs asked for 3 hammer in fixings per board incase of fire.The only thing to watch is that somtimes it does expand a little so keep an eye on it cos once its gone of you wont move it. Last thing on a Friday night i drilled through a cable putting in a hammer fixing in so just turned it all of (unocupied house) and had a right job cutting the piece of board out to repair the electric the foam had stuck fast.
    Lucius

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    Default Re: Dot and Dabbing plasterboard

    Thanks for all the advice guys, all done and only about a mm or so dip in one place, seems pretty easy when you get going.

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    Default Re: Dot and Dabbing plasterboard

    Yay! Glad it went ok phil

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    Default Re: Dot and Dabbing plasterboard

    Way to go!!

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