hi guys what do you think of ditra mat anygood on top of floorboards?
Welcome to Tilers Forums Tiling Forum
The UK's Biggest Tiling Forum for DIY and Professional Tilers; find
DIY and Professional Wall and Floor Tilers are Welcome
Advice from by Tilers, Manufacturers, Distributors and Tile Suppliers
p.s.: Registered members will not see this ad
hi guys what do you think of ditra mat anygood on top of floorboards?



I know one tiler who does all the time but if the floor has bounce you may need some strengthening up.
Looked at a job the other day and they have a gap of 2 foot between 2 joists![]()
"Experience is simply the name we give our mistakes"



Very good stuff but its very important that its used in the right way and in the right circumstances. As Whitebeam said if there is a lot of movement in the floor youl prob want to over lay it first.
yeah agree i think its great stuff do you think its expensive. tho sometimes i think doing everything totally correct can outprice the job and they end up giving to a cowboy who does it for half the price then the job fails in 6 months



Thats the problem. We just have to hope that when the tiles lift or fall off the walls the customer will be on the phone asking for a good job. Thats what I tell myself anyway.



THier are other membranes that are a lot cheaper than Ditra..
I use Dural Ci..



I havnt used the others as I get the Ditra for less (I dont know why). Are they just as good?


Isn't that a contradiction of terms, if pricing everything for an up to spec job means you don't get the job, well that's the breaks, if you don't do things totally correct, your as bad as the cowboys, who's jobs fail in 6 months, and you will get labelled as such. Stick to the book, works work but reps everything.
And to answer your question, no, never straight to floorboards.
Last edited by Alan.P; 28-01-2010 at 10:14 PM.
Check this out granted its not orange but is the muts nuts, the mesh on the top surface means no messing around filling dove tails as with ditra.
DURA- CI isolating the problem
THE PROBLEMS
1. Moisture from above - tiled floors
In situations where you want to prevent water ingress and damage to other rooms within a property when tiling on wood floors. A perfect example might be a wetroom or communal shower. Tiles themselves are
waterproof but grout lines and joints / wall to floor transitions are susceptible to cracking from structure movement and settlement. Dura-ci in this situation would halt water ingress.
2. Moisture from below - tiled surfaces
In the case of anhydrite screeds, residual moisture from the screed can collect under the installed tiles and damage the adhesive bond blowing tiles. Accordingly, tiles must only be installed when you have a sufficiently low moisture content in the case of installations with under floor heating.
3. Foundation and floor stresses
Depending on the structural design and the materials used (especially with today's fast turn around of property's) foundations can be subjected to stress which could then be transferred to the tiles and result in cracking
In the case of concrete, for example, expansion and contraction during warming, cooling and in the drying out can lead to deformations after periods lasting as long as 6 months to several years. Cement floors and heated screed can also experience movement after being covered by tiles or slabs. Similarly, wood, chipboard and compressed board deform notably through moisture absorption.
4. Refurbished floors
During restorations of old wooden or tiled floors, cracks become evident so that secure installation of the new tiles is no longer guaranteed.
5 Heated floors
As with all things concrete expands and contracts with temperature changes, when you install an in-screed heat source (under floor heating) this movement can increase. As tiles are solidly fixed to the screed any movement within the screed will be reflected in the tiles causing cracks. This cracking is often seen along grout lines in ceramic and porcelain floors but cracks in stone floors can actually travel through the tiles.
THE SOLUTION
Dura-ci membrane is a yellow polyethylene cored uncoupling / decoupling mat for isolating finished tiled finishes from wood, concrete, bitumen and anhydrite substrates with an install height of just 3mm. An indented top surface with laminated mesh and lower fleece layer achieve strong bonds with thin bed mortars and adhesives.
Dura-ci is elastic, rot proof and resistant to aggressive substances and liquids such as alkalis, solvents and oils. It is also highly impervious to water-vapor diffusion. DURA-ci bridges cracks, decouples floor coverings from their substrates, and acts as a physical tanking membrane.
DURA-ci is especially suitable for installing tiles on difficult substrates.
1. Sealing in outdoor situations
DURA-ci in conjunction with tiled flooring can, for example be used on balconies so preventing water seepage.
2. Crack bridging
The crack bridging properties of the membrane make it extremely suitable for installation as part of a restoration project. For example, Dura-ci permits installation of new tiles on top old and damaged coverings (“tiling on tiling”) providing the floor is level and as one. 3. Installation of tiles on wooden foundations DURA-ci decouples coverings from their foundation, thus permitting installation of tiles on foundations which experience
lateral deflection (expansion and contraction) in response to changes in temperature and humidity. The DURA-ci membrane can also be used to install tiles on ply wood or traditional wooden floor boards following appropriate preparation.
4. Installation of tiles on poured asphalt
DURA-ci makes it possible to install tiling resistant to long-term damage even on problematic substrates such as poured asphalt and similar bituminous load-bearing compounds.
5. Installation on fresh foundations
CI matting allows for reverse compensation of va pour pressure, which allows for installation of tiles onto foundations which are still wet (green). This is especially practical on foundations comprising anhydrite screed. DURA-ci membrane make it possible to install tiles on anhydrite screed that have achieved a residual moisture content of 2%. Usually, this eliminates the need for elaborate pre-treatment and special adhesives.
INSTALLATION
The foundation must be stable, level and free of loose material. Before installation, the DURA-ci mats are cut to the required dimensions. The thin-bed mortar or fluidized mortar is applied to the foundation by means of a 4 x 4 mm serrated trowel. The tile adhesive must be matched with the substrate. Best results are usually achieved with thin-bed mortar, flex mortar or fluidized-bed mortar requiring hydraulic setting.
Recommendations for ideally matched products can be obtained
directly from Dura-
1.
The mats are pressed into place with their carrier fleece facing downwards and tapped down with a hammer. The thin-bed mortar
must achieve a strong mechanical bond with the carrier fleece under the DURA-ci mating. The membrane is then laid into the
thin-bed mortar before the adhesive dries and any joints taped with Dura-flexi tape. Some protection may need to be provided to
prevent damage to the membrane when traveling or stacking.
2.
Once the adhesive for the matting has thoroughly hardened, flexible tile adhesive is spread over the surface and into the recesses / mesh before fixing tiles with a notched trowel.
Wetdecs stock 5, 10, 25m rolls along with all accessories and Dura-wp tanking and waterproofing membrane.
..
iv got a floor tiling job in a bathroom over ply white porcerlin 400/400 do i need delta mating over the ply it can get very wet![]()
Bookmarks