Dot & Dab plasterboard

[grumpygrouter]

I see a lot of comments about Dot & Dab-ing plasterboard. Please excuse my ignorance, I am just a mere accountant, but is this primarily relevant brick or block built walls?

Up here in Scotland almost all of the new houses built up here in the last decade or 3 have been of timber frame construction and interior walls are more or less all stud partition. Am I correct in the assumption that to replace plasterboard with this construction requires complete removal of old board and then new boards screwed to the studs, then taped and filled ?

The budding joiner - Grumpy

[GazTech]

[quote=grumpygrouter;22746]I see a lot of comments about Dot & Dab-ing plasterboard. Please excuse my ignorance, I am just a mere accountant, but is this primarily relevant brick or block built walls?

Up here in Scotland almost all of the new houses built up here in the last decade or 3 have been of timber frame construction and interior walls are more or less all stud partition. Am I correct in the assumption that to replace plasterboard with this construction requires complete removal of old board and then new boards screwed to the studs, then taped and filled ?

The budding joiner - Grumpy[/quote]Absolutely Grumps..In bathrooms especially it is now better to replace damaged plasterboard with Backer boards,if onto studwork then screwfix firmly,if onto block or brick then dot & dab.Not only are backers better for in wet areas as in not rotting,they will also bear more weight for tiling.[IMG]http://www.tilersforums.co.uk/images/icons/icon14.gif[/IMG]

[grumpygrouter]

Originally Posted by Gaz @ Topps

Absolutely Grumps..In bathrooms especially it is now better to replace damaged plasterboard with Backer boards,if onto studwork then screwfix firmly,if onto block or brick then dot & dab.Not only are backers better for in wet areas as in not rotting,they will also bear more weight for tiling.

Another question then, I am lined up to do a repair to a shower cubicle. The step into the cubicle was originally a piece of timber that has been tiled over. As you can guess, the timber has gone rotten and tiles are now falling off. What would be the best way of "rebuilding" the step for retiling. I was thinking of strips of backerboard layered up to make a step and then tile that but it seems a bit "heath robinson". Any ideas of how to go about this?

Grumpy

[GazTech]

[quote=grumpygrouter;22760]Another question then, I am lined up to do a repair to a shower cubicle. The step into the cubicle was originally a piece of timber that has been tiled over. As you can guess, the timber has gone rotten and tiles are now falling off. What would be the best way of "rebuilding" the step for retiling. I was thinking of strips of backerboard layered up to make a step and then tile that but it seems a bit "heath robinson". Any ideas of how to go about this?

Grumpy[/quote]If you remove all timber and clean the area up,you can build the step using thermalite or breeze blocks.Bedded into flexi adh...with joints between filled with flex adh.Very easy to cut thermo blocks with old panel or rip saw,either tile directly onto step or backer board it prior to tiling.....nice and solid mate....Gaz

[grumpygrouter]

Thanks Gaz. What's thermalite and do Topps sell it?

[CJ]

Similar to these grouty.

Wickes - Aerated Blocks

[grumpygrouter]

Thanks CJ, know what they are now! could be just the job if I can cut them OK.

[GazTech]

[quote=grumpygrouter;22777]Thanks CJ, know what they are now! could be just the job if I can cut them OK.[/quote]Very soft stuff,easy with hand saw

Can you dot and dab aquapanel? Their website talks about screwing to studwork but doesn't mention dot and dab.

[Dave]

well that is actually a good question mcp..i suppose if the dot and dab sticky sticks to it then why not....DAVE..