Help!: bathroom tiling

[mikit]

hello, I am looking for some advice I have brought some slate tiles for my bathroom floor and some ceramic tiles for the walls which are freshly plastered (seen some conflicting advice about that on here), Should I do the walls first or the floor? and do I need to seal the slate before fixing or before grouting?

Many thanks
Mikit

[Alan.P]

Personal choice on where / what to do first, I would do the walls and then the floor in this case ( slate ) and yes, seal before fixing and then again before grouting ( optional )

[diamondtiling]

I do walls first, floors last, someone will be straight on to say they do it the other way around and that theirs is the best way, it does not matter, do what suits you. Seal the slate prior to grouting and then again when the grout is dry, keep them clean at all times whilst fixing, if you get a haze on them before grouting you can clean with a slate cleaner available from good tile shops.

[mikit]

Thanks for that, also do you think it's ok to tile onto a freshly plastered wall?

[Alan.P]

Freshly plastered as in when ? plaster will need to be dry (properly dry) before tiling starts, rule of thumb is 1 day per mm IIRC.

[Gazzatile]

Plaster must be completly dry before tiling commences usally a minimum of 2 weeks if unsure leave it longer also be aware that plaster will only carry 20kg/m2 Good luck

[mikit]

it's only a skim to flatten walls a couple of mill, the back wall was done about a week ago and i'm about to skim the other walls once i get off here

[mikit]

looks like perhaps I should do the floor first then

[Alan.P]

Just be aware that you will have to cover the floor well when you start the walls, you won't want to mess up your nice new slate, will you

Good luck and post pics when finished, we like pictures

[diamondtiling]

If you do the floor you will have to cover it up while you do the walls, you will be using tools that you might drop onto the floor tiles, you will drop bits of grout onto the floor or dust sheets, if you do the walls first then none of the above matters

always thinking.

[mikit]

thanks guy really appreciate your comments, but while looking at floor,tiolet pan pedestal, ive realised that i haven't left enough room to get slate tiles under pedestal is it ok to cut round it? if so how will i remove it to get to pipes should anything go wrong could i get a grinding wheel on bottom of pedestal to make it shorter or is this just plain stupid? thanks again

[Alan.P]

Yes you can cut around the pedestal etc, much nicer finish if you didn't have to but hey ho, while we're on the subject, what sort of floor is it at the moment, concrete / wood etc.

As for pipes and any fault for that matter, once tiled, if you get a fault, either the floor would have to come up or the ceiling below it would have to come down to get to the problem.

[diamondtiling]

Take the ped out and raise the sink if you have to, its a straight forward enough job, if you dont feel confident then a plumber would not charge much to do that for you.

[mikit]

perhaps I will raise the sink, but the plumber siliconed it to the wall.. The floor has vinyl tiles down which are sound but covering bitumen, I have been told that if I use a flexible adhesive it should be ok to tile over these rather than trying to remove the bitumen..

[mikit]

sorry Alan for not being clearer i meant the sink pipes which i have boxed in except behind the pedestal where the isolation valves and pipes to the basin are exposed, also as no one has metioned sealing the plaster do i need a particular sort of adhesive?

and once again guys thanks for your words of wisdom...

[Alan.P]

Ah, I see, can you make up a false boxing , tile it and slot it in to cover the valve etc, then if you need to get to it it's just a matter of lifting it out, as for the adhesive, what tile size are you fixing ?

[mikit]

10 cm x 10cm incusive of 3mm spacers

[Alan.P]

10 cm x 10cm incusive of 3mm spacers

If your not the fastest fixer a tubbed adhesive will do, ( longer pot life ) most of them don't require priming, best to check on the tub when you decide what brand your going to buy. If your confident enough to use a bagged powder adhesive then the wall will need priming, again, depending on brand. If you let us know what you intend on using we can better advise you.

[mikit]

i think i will be using the tub type it sounds easier all round

[Alan.P]

OK, just check on the tub if the manufacturer recommends priming

[mikit]

thanks Alan you have been a great help have a good day

[diamondtiling]

tubbed adhesive in a bathroom? use a slow setting powder, vastly superior and bond all the surfaces.

[mikit]

what do you mean? it bonds to any surface or i have to bond every surface with something like pva ? sorry for my ignorance

[Alan.P]

Not p.v.a what Diamond is saying is that you could use a primer, but I would check on the makers data, pick an adhesive and we can let you know about preperation works.

[diamondtiling]

Use acrylic bond not pva to bond your walls. Tubbed adhesive takes longer to dry, get the slow setting bagged stuff and you will be fine.

[Alan.P]

Use acrylic bond not pva to bond your walls. Tubbed adhesive takes longer to dry, get the slow setting bagged stuff and you will be fine.

It will only take a day after fixing to dry, there's nothing wrong with using 'some' tubbed gear in bathrooms I think we're looking at a steady / slow job, not to knock anyone.