Removing a radiator to tile behind........... - TilersForums.co.uk | Tile Forums

Digger100 · 03-08-2007

got three rooms to tile in my own house and the radiators are going to have to come off to make a decent job of it. How straight forward is it removing a radiator and putting it back on so that everything still works? eg do you have to balance the system etc?

Not a professional tiler and never had to take one off before.

Appreciate any help. Cheers

**uug197h** · 03-08-2007

turn both valves off, undo nut at the radiator side of the valve (slowley) let water drain out then remove nut at the other side. now remove radiator. to put back fix radiator back on wall screw nuts back up open valves check for leaks, NOTE you can only do this if there are no thermostatic valves on your radiators, if there is you need to drain the full system

03-08-2007

When you're undoing the nut you need to use two adjustable spanners. One to undo the nut and one to hold the valve. I used just one to undo the nut and managed to pull the valve off, not good.

**Dan** · 03-08-2007

I used to get an extra pair of hands and providing there's enough room I'd undo both sides and get my help to put force on the side I did first to stop / slow down the leak and then quickly do the other side and stick a finger or thumb over the exit points and flip the rad 180 so the water didn't come out.... after either shutting down the valves or on old dodgy systems i'd freeze the pipes and then fit a stop end on the valve... where possible.

Stat valves are ok turned off providing you dont end up with a cold room as they'll kick in on their frost setting which is usually the lowest setting, which is not quite off.

Although i'm not a plumber so listen to Uggy and McP

I did used to get wet and need a few towels in most cases.

Digger100 · 03-08-2007

Cheers all for the replies, doesn't sound too difficult I'll have a go over the weekend.

**Fekin** · 03-08-2007

Don't do what my mate did..... have the central heating on full crack, switch off and remove radiator.... he found the water was ... a bit over room temp, lol

**CON5933** · 03-08-2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by Digger100

Cheers all for the replies, doesn't sound too difficult I'll have a go over the weekend.

famous last words mate...
Put some plastic sheeting down under the towels...the water that comes out will/could be absolutely minging... if it gets thru the floorbards it can stain the ceiling underneath.

GazTech · 07-09-2007

I used to unscrew threads real slow(away left..towards right) till the both were dripping fastish,ok with customers quilt down in front.Then quickly flip up and swing rad down till the top hit the floor..then nip the nuts tight (reverse 1st process) then tile around brackets...grout up then loosen nuts flip in place and tighten nuts back up....saved £120 tossers.........sorry plumbers fees

**devonmark** · 08-09-2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by McP77

When you're undoing the nut you need to use two adjustable spanners. One to undo the nut and one to hold the valve. I used just one to undo the nut and managed to pull the valve off, not good.

you're definatley right on that one.....not good..lol

faithhealer · 08-09-2007

becareful digger, especially if it's only 8 or 10mm pipework!

1As Mcp77 said, TWO spanners required, make sure that valve doesn't move when you crack it open.
2, if you can move the carpet (if it is carpet) do it! not worth the risk of sludge on the carpet
3, I always drain the rad before I lift it off, makes it a lot lighter and saves the panic of trying to flip it over with sludge dripping all over the place. just put a container under a valve when you crack it. If you crack the bleed valve be careful 'cos the water will gush out!
4, Thermostactic valves, some TRVs don't have an OFF as such, just a 'Frost' setting which means it is always open ever so slightly. In this case unscrew the cap from the valve (a knurled ring under the temp settings) make sure the TRV is unscrewed to highest temp and put a 5p coin inside then screw the cap back on. Then turn the cap as if you are turning the temp down and this should shut the valve off.
5, If it's a combi boiler, the system will have to be topped up when you put the rad back on. (A flexi feed tube near the boiler, Isolater valves at both ends) ,open both up until pressure reads 1 bar (or slightly over) bleed rad then top up again. A gravity fed system (An expansion tank in the loft) will fill itself!
best of luck mate
John
PS don't forget the 5p!!!!