Help!: Boarding a stud wall

[Petrol22]

A couple of daft questions (which reveal my true amateur status) about fixing board to a stud wall....
I'm going for boarding out with aquapanels - on the bath/shower walls and normal (12.5mm) plasterboard on the other 2. Questions are:
1. Do I buy square edge or tapered edge plasterboard (2400 x 1200) - for tiling I'm thinking the square edge with some tape over the joint should do?
2. With the aquapanel (in 1200 x 900 size) I don't have that dilema, but would welcome advise on whether I need extra noggins to support the horizontal joints. The studs are 400 apart and there is a central noggin midway, which doesn't lie where any horizontal joint will be.

Any pointers would be much appreciated.

[Tiler Dave]

hi mate personally i would go for the square edge boards.
And also aqua panels are very tough panels and shouldnt warp or twist really.... if u dont have any noggins where the boards meet eachother then just screw/fix a section of timber to ur first board then when fitting board above.... or below u can screw/fix into the section of timber over hanging ur first board. this way u shouldnt get any flex at the joints where the boards meet.... hope u understand what i mean as ive just read back thru this and it propa sounds like im waffling on about a load of old tosh!!!! lol.... Any how im sure u get the idea.... and hope it helps...

[Colour Republic]

dont forget to stagger your plaster board joints

[whitebeam]

Even if you use plasterboard the noggins are to reduce any movement in the stud work

[Gazebo]

I use noggins at the joints for the aquapanel, but as Tilerdave suggests a piece of supporting timber screwed to a panel then slotted behind the fitted panel and screwed to it will work,(now im waffling) also dont forget to use aquapanel screws and jointing tape,(scrim tape with some rapid set will do. Or aquapanel silicone.)

Gary

[Petrol22]

Thanks Gary,
Wickes info leaflet on their aquapanel recommends, just prior to tiling, filling the joints with tile adhesive, putting a thin layer of addy across the joint then bedding in the aquapanel tape.
Re the screws, I've read a comment somewhere that the the aquapanel screws (being pan-heads) protrude above the panels and hinder adhesive application. Use of SS countersunk woodscrews was recommended.
Any thoughts anyone??

[terry the tiler]

Thanks Gary,
Wickes info leaflet on their aquapanel recommends, just prior to tiling, filling the joints with tile adhesive, putting a thin layer of addy across the joint then bedding in the aquapanel tape.
Re the screws, I've read a comment somewhere that the the aquapanel screws (being pan-heads) protrude above the panels and hinder adhesive application. Use of SS countersunk woodscrews was recommended.
Any thoughts anyone??

hardy cement boards recommend 30mm galvanised roofing nails , saves time and are totally flush other than that there screws are designed to screw in flush but i can never get them flush without using a hammer on the last 3mm , or use a counter sinker first . i would personally use screws counter sinking method.

[paulyoung666]

hardy cement boards recommend 30mm galvanised roofing nails , saves time and are totally flush other than that there screws are designed to screw in flush but i can never get them flush without using a hammer on the last 3mm , or use a counter sinker first . i would personally use screws counter sinking method.

out of curiousity then why do they sell there own screws in bags to go with the board ??

[nybor62]

use corrosion protected screws,as in earlier post stagger the joints.you can use aqua panel joint filer. tape over the joints , or you can silicone the joints

[Scott]

One for wall one for floors?

I use an impact driver for all my fixings, that sinks them in pan head or not!