Which method to install showerbath?

[jrm]

Hi guys,

Was hoping you could give me some views on the below methods for installing a new bath:

Method A

Install bath in corner against new plasterboard walls.
Silicone the edge of bath before pushing it into position against the walls, allow silicone to dry.
Install a Sealux bath sealing strip
Apply tanking membrane on walls right down to the edge of the bath seal strip.
Install the tiles.

Method B

Apply tanking to the full length of the new plasterboard walls.
Silicone the edge of bath before pushing it into position against the walls
Tile right down to the bath (leave a 2mm gap).
Silicone seal around the edge of the bath.

I'm not overly keen on method A since the bath seal strips can discolour over time and get scummed up with soap which isn't very hygenic.

My thinking is method B is better because the silicone can be renewed whenever you like so the bath area always looks fresh. If for any reason the silicone fails, the walls are tanked right down to the floorboards so if water does pass down the side of the bath, the walls are fully protected.

I would appreciate your thoughts.

[CDS]

What sort of tanking system are you using? Personally I favour the 'paint-on' systems such as the Bal WP1 but there are sheet systems as well such as Homelux.

The paint-on system will allow you to install the bath using the method you describe and then apply a tanking system right down onto the bath edge. You don't need to use the sealing strip, as you say it just looks unsightly. Then tile down to the bath, leaving a movement gap and apply silicone to finish. (the tile thickness and finishing silicone seal cover the tanking around the bath edge - use masking tape though!)

The sheet system does the same thing but is harder to get a seal onto the bath edge and because you apply it with adhesive it gives you a non-flat surface to tile onto - easy enough to get around if you know what you're doing but just an additional headache in my view!

Chris

[ssharpe]

as above ,the bal wp1 or similar and fill the bath with water to bed into position, silicon,plus bath also should be attached to wallwith the brackets supplied sunk into the plasterboard onto straps or rawl plugged into wall for extra fixing strength.once the silicons set drain the water then tile.i never use the bath seals either ,dirt gatherers

[jrm]

I'm favouring a sheet tanking system (either Homelux or Durabase) rather than a 'paint on' solution.

I'd prefer to silicone seal the bath, but if the silicone failed, water would seep down the side of the bath then that will damage the plasterboard because it is not tanked below the bath? This is why i'm suggesting tanking the entire wall before the bath is put in place.

Am I on the right track?

[ssharpe]

green back plasterboard is moisture resistant so would work for surface moisture.if the seal is done correctly it very rarely fails,use a good quality silicon

[jrm]

Changing the plasterboard isn't an option i'm afraid, the new boards are already up and they aren't coming down now!

[Smithy153]

So you want to use the membrane U just want to know whether to sheet the entire wall or just down to the bath. If it were me i'd sheet the wall first but not go all the way to the floor but go down past the bath level. Then silican bath to sheeting and then tile down to bath

[jrm]

That's exactly what i'm planning to do, just wanted to know if it was an appropriate method!

Cheers

[honza1]

Make sure You push enough grout in gaps!
Make sure you apply silicone on dry Grout (dry everything realy) and clean everything and your silicone will not fail. Again you make sure you push enough in the gaps.
And use good quality mald resistant sanitary silicone.

[trevortine]

Far as tanking goes i would defo use bal wp1. Refered to as 'paint on stuff' doesnt do it any justification. it is a superior product and will never fail when applied correctly. I would use it long before i even thought bout the homelux sheeting type. Dont forget the wp1 kit comes with fibre sheeting which gets placed over the first coat and then coated again. Once done will withstand any downpour!!!

[tommyzooom]

The method i would use is to tank the walls to just below the level of the bath then stick the bath to the tanking system( i use a product called CT1)and brackets underneath, fill in any gaps between bath and tanking with more slicone , Tile down to bath and a neat bead of silicone (not CT1 this time). This is only posible if you can tank the walls before the bath is fitted as seems in your case.

[Ger]

If you silicone the bottom edge of the tile to the adjacent ledge after tanking the wall, is there a moisture trap between the back of the tile and membrane?

Not all strips have “soft lips” that discolour. The attached file might be of interest.

[helpsy]

Hi
I would fix a batten to the wall under the bath lip and run some plumbers gold or alike (i think CT1) along the side edges of wall/bath and push into place against wall/walls and make a cradle along the front of the bath for support, make sure of fixing feet to floor etc(only use the frame screws that come with it or you may penetrate the surface!!!)If adjusting/fitting pipework make sure its accessible for work/repair after, usually at the front edge of bath, not the back.If you have horizontal pipe runs, run the hot pipe above the cold pipe as this will help to stop heat transfer,condensation and mould. Fit isolation valves to pipework and legislation on new install comes into effect 6th April to fit a TMV(Thermostatic mixing valve, to avoid scalding).
Good Luck.

[Scott]

Isnt TMV only on new build as part of Part G regs?