DIY Related: Stripping Tiles of walls

[lawrenso]

Hi Guys,

Me again

As most of you are aware, I more than likely have to strip the tiles of the wall (if not me then the cr@p tiler we had). OK with the plasterboard walls - straight forward to replace this. What I need to ask is for the "hard walls" - ie Gypsum I believe. If there is quite a bit of damage getting the tiles off, I fancy ripping it all off back to the block and replacing with something like Hardibacker - but how would I do this without affecting the width of the room as the bath goes agross this so basically will have the depth of the plaster/basecoat to play with. I know a Sand Cement scratch is the best but have read that this will take a long time to dry and will shrink - and will only be a few weeks until beeing tiled.

If this was needed - would gripfill and drill/plug and screw be enough to put the Hardibacker etc onto the block?

Cheers

Steve

[P'boro tiler]

could you move the bath a bit if needed? shouldnt be too hard.
i would fix battens to the masonry wall and simply screw the hardiboard on. hardi have instructions specifying how far the timber must be apart etc.

[lawrenso]

could you move the bath a bit if needed? shouldnt be too hard.
i would fix battens to the masonry wall and simply screw the hardiboard on. hardi have instructions specifying how far the timber must be apart etc.

Not really - it is bang on the width of the room (with what is there) - I did look at JH's site and saw about the batten using a 4"*2" - and if it is on the width that would be loosing 4" + 12mm from the width of the room. Even 2" + 12mm would be way too much.

Any further thoughts??

Steve

[beanz]

Just fill the holes with Rapid set addy.

When you say the bath is bang on the width of the room, do you REALLY mean 'bang on'? I only ask because if so, it's gonna be a bit of a mare getting it in place. You'll probably have to cut a section out of the plasterboard to drop the bath in place (you probably aready know this, but just in case...).

[Dave]

Hi steve...wots your thinking for using hardi..?...can you not just uae 12.5mm plasterboard and then tank any wet area's...Damn site cheaper and you don't need the hardi for weight issues as the youngstone will be fine on plasterboard walls with no skim..

[lawrenso]

Hi Dave,

Fair point there Dave- I suppose what I am really after is the fixing of the plasterboard to the block that is under the render to keep the width at its maximum - ie - how thick does a dot and dab have to be if I done that - or could I screw to the wall (ignoring a frame)

Cheers

Steve

[Dave]

Dot and Dabbing the plasterboard will be flatter and quicker....

The dabbing bed is usually around 10mm thick once the boards are bedded back with a straight edge..

[doug boardley]

dot and dab will be fine lawrenso, if you whack the boards with a straight/feather edge this should get them right back (virtually) to the wall

[BDS]

agree with dave and doug,dot and dab is what i`d go for and if you wanted to secure it a bit more when the addy as dried you could always drill holes through them in to the wall then plug and screw them

[lucius]

As the lads say dot and dab is the way but if your tight for space you can go down to about 8mill with sand and cement but you do need to know what you are doing to get it flat.
Lucius

[CJ]

As above.

Dot/dab plasterboard. Then either tank or membrane

[lawrenso]

As the lads say dot and dab is the way but if your tight for space you can go down to about 8mill with sand and cement but you do need to know what you are doing to get it flat.
Lucius

Hopefully if the walls are done to spec - should be about 13mm worth of Plaster/Scratch on there - I could cope with losing 7mm by easing into the wall - just a bit worried about the waterproofness of where the wall (plasterboard) has been cut out - my kids splash a hell of a lot of water.

Mind you - I suppose I could (or the tiler rather) put the tanking tape from the pb edging onto the bath lip

Cheers

Steve