New bathroom tiling work - questions before starting!

**JohnCC** · 10-02-2009

Hi-

I'm in the process of buying in materials to tile our bathroom which we've gutted. The floor is a cement screed, the walls are plaster over blocks.

I've already bought an electric underfloor heating kit from HandyHeat along with some 10mm insulation board.

I'm probably about to buy some of Mandarin Stone's "Classic Travertine" ( Classic Travertine Honed Filled Travertine Stone ) and they have recommended Dunlop adhesives and grout (Large format white adhesive, Set Fast Plus white adhesive, Limestone grout and flexible additive). They are also quoting for Filafob, Filasatin and Filacleaner.

Does this sound like a good combination? Has anyone laid this stone, and were you pleased with the result? I'm going to use the 600x400's on the floor, and 400x400's on the walls, tiling about half-way up on 2 out of 4 walls. There is no shower.

I'm told by Handyheat that I just fix the boards down with flexible adhesive and then tile on top of them. They say I won't need Ditra matting - does this sound reasonable?

I'm going to use a local builder who claims to have done a fair bit of tiling and is doing a lot of the other work - anything in particular I should ask him to check out his ability? Any major do's and don'ts?

The floor seems to vary in level slightly where a wall was removed between a toilet and the old bathroom. He says he can take that out with adhesive. What is biggest variation you can remove that way before self-levelling screed should be used?

This represents a big spend for me at the moment and I just want the result to be worth the money, so I really appreciate any advice before shelling out!

**Gazzatile** · 10-02-2009

You may be better to get a stone specialist as it is very easy to stain stone if not fixed grouted and sealed correctly. Most adhesive can be used up to 6mm and 12 mm in small areas unless you use a proper thick bed adhesive.

Leatherface · 10-02-2009

Would suggest a good flexible self levelling compound to be applied over heat mat prior to tiling. Less risk of damaging mat & also aids heat transfer as a better bed of adhesive can b applied.

**brian c** · 10-02-2009

for the height issues...use Mapei ultraplan Maxi..this goes from 3-30mm.Te insulation boards 10mm tile say 10mm and adhesive plus the, slc ,should bring the floor height up no problem.

Floor should be primed before leveling commences and before tiling commences.imo

**sWe** · 10-02-2009

Originally Posted by Leatherface

Less risk of damaging mat

And if you ever want to switch tiles, or need to replace broken ones, the heat ufh is more likely to be undamaged once the tiles are removed.

Originally Posted by Leatherface

& also aids heat transfer as a better bed of adhesive can b applied.

Not only that, but the added thickness lets the heat diffuse/spread more efficiently/evenly, which means that the risk of heat "tracks" in the floor is minimized.

CJ · 10-02-2009

Local builder doing the Job. Would try and see some of his work if possible.

Generally, builders do not like the tiling side of the works.......unless its major profit, and then you need to make sure he is up to the job?

If your in any doubt........get a pro tiler, who can show references and provide names, addresses of past customers.

With the cost of these tiles & other works...........the last thing you want is a sub standard job

**JohnCC** · 10-02-2009

Thanks for the advice! I just spoke the Handyheat and they agreed, a self-levelling compound over the cable (it's cable reel not a mat, but same idea I think) is a good plan.

I just checked the floor levels a bit more, and now everything is out there really is some crazy variation in levels and pitch so I'd be a lot happier getting a self-levelling compound down first.

By the way, the screed is cement, 60's vintage, with a slight bitumen residue from lino tiles.

Having done some reading on this superb site, and got an idea of the pitfalls, I'm beginning to think that getting a specialist to do the tiling and heating part might be a good investment. Any suggestions for the SP5/Salisbury area, or should I repost in the tiling jobs forum?

I should add, the areas are approx 5m2 floor and 7.5m2 wall.

Leatherface · 10-02-2009

Originally Posted by sWe

And if you ever want to switch tiles, or need to replace broken ones, the heat ufh is more likely to be undamaged once the tiles are removed.

Not only that, but the added thickness lets the heat diffuse/spread more efficiently/evenly, which means that the risk of heat "tracks" in the floor is minimized.

Yes !!
And also ufh manufactures advise that the cable or mat is fully "incased", this is less likely when you tile straight on top, as air pockets are likely to be created. I stand to be corrected, but these air pockets can create "hot spots" which in time "may" cause your UFH to malfunction !