1st Job: Wall runs out by 10mm over 4metres!

[Rosco]

I'm tiling a kitchen between the units with 100 x 100 ceramic tiles. I have nearly completed one wall which was nice and level, but the second is running out by 10mm.

The walls are plastered so I've primed with BAL sbr and I'm using BAL green star ready mix addy.

Unfortunately the tiles were purchased from B&Q and don't all measure exact

What's the best way around this problem? would it be to use my 10mm trowel and just try to pack out the problem areas????

[grumpygrouter]

Sort the wall before you start it if you can. Why prime if using green star?

[Rosco]

I just read the back of the green star tub and they advise to prime first with BAL sbr or a different BAL primer....or have I read that wrong?

How do you suggest I sort the wall before starting? The outside wall has new brickwork as a window and door was taken out and replaced with a larger window, but the brick work didn't line up so instead of knocking half the house down and starting again they joined it up as best they could...hence the reason why it's running out.

[marc1106]

I'm tiling a kitchen between the units with 100 x 100 ceramic tiles. I have nearly completed one wall which was nice and level, but the second is running out by 10mm.

The walls are plastered so I've primed with BAL sbr and I'm using BAL green star ready mix addy.

Unfortunately the tiles were purchased from B&Q and don't all measure exact

What's the best way around this problem? would it be to use my 10mm trowel and just try to pack out the problem areas????

Are you saying theres a ten mm gap between the wall and worktop! or the worktop isnt level to the underside of wall cabs? im afriad i didnt quite follw the post, sorry!

[grumpygrouter]

I just read the back of the green star tub and they advise to prime first with BAL sbr or a different BAL primer....or have I read that wrong?

How do you suggest I sort the wall before starting? The outside wall has new brickwork as a window and door was taken out and replaced with a larger window, but the brick work didn't line up so instead of knocking half the house down and starting again they joined it up as best they could...hence the reason why it's running out.

Think that might just be a bit of BAL merketing IMO. If you check out the bal fixers guide you will see that priming with green star is not mentioned anywhere!

[cornish_crofter]

I've had similar problems. I find that using a cheap fast setting cement based adhesive to level it up works a treat.

I used Profix Fast flex recently, as I had it for some floor tiles. If you've not used it before then it takes a bit of getting used to. Use a 6ft straight edge and levels to get it straight, let it go off then tile straight onto it. It doesn't have to be a perfect finish as you're tiling onto it, it just needs to be level and straight on the whole.

[Rosco]

Are you saying theres a ten mm gap between the wall and worktop! or the worktop isnt level to the underside of wall cabs? im afriad i didnt quite follw the post, sorry!

not sure how to explain then really.....If I look down the wall where the back edge of the work top is the wall looks curved. The guy that cut the work top said the depth at the far end of the work top is ten mm shorter the end I'm looking from

[grumpygrouter]

You should put a long straight edge on the wall and check for flatness, not rely on a cut work top to guide you. it may have been cut wrong!

[bigandy]

With everyone else check with straight edge first and sort out the walls before you tile save your self headaches

[whitebeam]

I just read the back of the green star tub and they advise to prime first with BAL sbr or a different BAL primer....or have I read that wrong?

How do you suggest I sort the wall before starting? The outside wall has new brickwork as a window and door was taken out and replaced with a larger window, but the brick work didn't line up so instead of knocking half the house down and starting again they joined it up as best they could...hence the reason why it's running out.

Bal reccomend to prime with apd if the plaster is polished or shiny, it's on the green star tub under preperation

[Dave]

You have to rough the surface with a stiff brush first though..

[david campbell]

I'm tiling a kitchen between the units with 100 x 100 ceramic tiles. I have nearly completed one wall which was nice and level, but the second is running out by 10mm.

The walls are plastered so I've primed with BAL sbr and I'm using BAL green star ready mix addy.

Unfortunately the tiles were purchased from B&Q and don't all measure exact

What's the best way around this problem? would it be to use my 10mm trowel and just try to pack out the problem areas????

sounds like the usual day at the "office"
walls are a mess-sort this out with a big bag of rapid set& a baton
tiles from b&Q-sort this out by informing the customer they are crap!!

[LM Ceramics]

Think that might just be a bit of BAL merketing IMO. If you check out the bal fixers guide you will see that priming with green star is not mentioned anywhere!

your right there russ i use green star for kitchens and have never primed i think its self priming

[beanz]

tiles from b&Q-sort this out by informing the customer they are crap!!

[Rosco]

You should put a long straight edge on the wall and check for flatness, not rely on a cut work top to guide you. it may have been cut wrong!

The back edge of the work top hugs the wall all the way so it has been cut correctly. When I look down the wall from the end of the worktop the wall seems straight leading up to a window and then from half way across the window to the corner of the room is where the wall has a curve in it.

From the advice that everyone has come back with I think I'll get some fast setting cement based adhesive and with a baton make sure the area from the wall from the corner leading up to the window is flat.

cheers for the advice everyone, i'll let you know how I get on.....................then it's on to the UFH and tiling the floor

[beanz]

I think I'll get some fast setting cement based adhesive and with a baton make sure the area from the wall from the corner leading up to the window is flat.

Don't use a Baton, they're never straight. For best results, go to Wickes and buy a cheap Feather Edge.

[marc1106]

The back edge of the work top hugs the wall all the way so it has been cut correctly. When I look down the wall from the end of the worktop the wall seems straight leading up to a window and then from half way across the window to the corner of the room is where the wall has a curve in it.

From the advice that everyone has come back with I think I'll get some fast setting cement based adhesive and with a baton make sure the area from the wall from the corner leading up to the window is flat.

cheers for the advice everyone, i'll let you know how I get on.....................then it's on to the UFH and tiling the floor

Aha the wall "BELLYS OUT" in the middle im with it now!
albeit to late to advise as the others have already told you how to do this!