Tiling top of window.

[FreeD]

Hi all

I'm in the middle of a job using ceramic 330x250 approx tiles, i've got a large window to work round i'm ok with the bottom and sides...but not sure about tiling the top...a full tile will come down from the ceiling (which runs out) and then i've got to allow for tile plus adhesive on the edge of reveal (which also runs out!) so question is how do i make measure my cuts with no level line to work from? I've seen in a previous post people recommending doing the top reveal first but this is not possible in this job as the window frame may be getting replaced. Also best way to hold the tiles in place while tub adhesive sets?



thanks

[faithhealer]

Don't know if Aldi have any of these left. I usually cut a baton and jam between the inside of the window just about touching the tiles!

[FreeD]

i've got some plasterboard props they might work what about the mesurements for top row of tiles how would you go about getting them square round the window and running with the contour of the ceiling when both reveal and ceiling are not level?

[cornish_crofter]

I have done this a few times but have been lucky enough to have a straight top reveal.

If the reveal were out I would first try to correct this. Fix a horizontal batten on the front face of the wall with the bottom edge just proud enough to the top reveal to give you something to level to, then use fast setting SPF or simlar to give yourself a flat, horizontal surface to tile onto.

Let that go off then tile to this reveal as you would the bottom and sides. Some people prefer to use the edging going into the reveals, others prefer to do it the other way. Either way is fine but you should be consistant.

As for holding the tiles in place, I have in the past knocked up a piece of 4x2, held up in place with a couple of battens, or you could do the top first and secure the batten in place with some screws or wedges in the sides.

Though you would be suprised how well the tiles stay in the top reveal whilst the adhesive is drying. If you use a fast setting SPF to fix them they will be dry before you leave site that day.

[FreeD]

Hi Cornish i'm trying to tile the face of the wall is that what you meant? so once i've leveled off the reveal how do cut the tiles to the contour of the ceiling and keep them square round the face of the window?

[whitebeam]

I use the mini quick supports for any window tile Carobyn

[cornish_crofter]

There are 2 ways to do this.

1) Depending on the out of squareness on the ceiling, (and I can see it runs out) you could cut each tile to its optimum length, then silicone and finish with a 7mm radius or similar the corner between the ceiling and the tiled wall. This will give the impression of the tiles following the contour of the ceiling. If you can't lose the difference over the width of the tile, then you'll need to take 2 measurements, one for each side and cut on the slight diagonal. Another option that I have done before is to cut the tile a mm or 2 oversize then, dig it into the ceiling.

2) Use coving or a similar finishing product. This will have the effect of reducing the run out of the ceiling, then tile onto the wall. This is more work though. I don't know if this job is for you or a customer.

Hope this helps.

[Daz]

If I've understood correctly, this might work????

You could level off the top of the window at the lowest point. Using your level mark the points on either side of the window. Adhere some masking tape or gaffa across the two points (this will not be very acurate but will give a reasonable guide). You can then mark cuts that will be within a couple of mm which will be an acceptable gap to ceiling.

Having re-read my comments, why not wack a baton across the levelled off window which will enable you to mark out more accurate cuts??

Personally, I would not have used tubbed addy with those tiles, as cement will give a much better grab and decent drying time, too.

[garythetiler]

nail a batten across the window head ,transfer your plumb lines up using your long level and rake cut the ceiling in, tile this in white rapid once the adhesive has gone off pull your batten off and tile around the rest of the window in the normal way ,area above window known as the window head, top reveal and most hanging surfaces known as the soffit, use the tiles on the window head now as your guide when straightening out the soffit prior to tiling it hope this helps never follow an out of plumb or out of level bead around a window this is very bad practice and will be noticed even if the ceiling/ wall follows this line

[smurf21]

First of you should be working to a level datum around the wall which will keep your tiles level above the window once you transfere your sides across with a level.the datum should be set to take the deviation in the ceiling line into consideration eg; half a tilee to allow for scribing to the line of ceiling, And to keep the tiles aloft a staff and baton wedged from the cill to hold them up'
if you need to level the head make sure you have enough clearance on the window fram if you have to bed down the head. good luck

[cornish_crofter]

nail a batten across the window head ,transfer your plumb lines up using your long level and rake cut the ceiling in, tile this in white rapid once the adhesive has gone off pull your batten off and tile around the rest of the window in the normal way ,area above window known as the window head, top reveal and most hanging surfaces known as the soffit, use the tiles on the window head now as your guide when straightening out the soffit prior to tiling it hope this helps never follow an out of plumb or out of level bead around a window this is very bad practice and will be noticed even if the ceiling/ wall follows this line

That kind of explained it better than my post.

I was trying to say what to do, gary explained how to do it.

[davy_G]

I use a self levelling laser on a pole to give a line along the lowest part of the head above the window. If in this case there is a full tile to the ceiling then tile up the sides first. Then infill using the laser as as your datum for cutting off (turn tiles over and mark the backs down from he ceiling). Makes it very quick...well for me anyway
If there is a cut above the window, i nail a batton on, tile to the ceiling then repeat as above.

If the head runs out badly, i tile as above then fill plaster/fill the reveal with rapidset to level it (making sure the grout joints arnt full of addy). Then tile it after lunch.

[doug boardley]

Don't know if Aldi have any of these left. I usually cut a baton and jam between the inside of the window just about touching the tiles!

father in law got me one today! assuming you're on about the props!

[doug boardley]

trying to grasp what you're saying about the window head. What I'd do is find the lowest point and level across, if the window head reveal needs modifying to suit, so be it! don't use tubbed addy for the window reveal head (in fact, don't use tubbed addy at all imo) use a powder rapid set, but tile your walls first before you close in on your reveals. it's one of those that's easier to do than explain!!

[FreeD]

Hi all.

Thanks for all your replies...was reading through them all last night could hardly sleep trying to put all the info together! anyway i checked the reveal again this morning and was not as bad as i first thought...i've decided to take a measurement from my datum line to the ceiling at regular intervals to see how far it runs out and then compensate for this as i go. On my first job i had know idea what a datum line was even though i put one around three walls...lol now i realise how important it is.

I am using tub adhesive on this job to save time, for me its quicker and as i'm within weight limits and the walls are level no probs imo anything bigger though and i'd be using cement based rapid set.

I'm hoping tub adhesive will be ok on the head its weber fix plus seems to have strong grab...if not i've got some rapid set just in case.

I also see how useful a laser would be! Might have to insvrest in one soon.