External Tiling on asphalt balcony - where to start?

[roylec]

I have just looked at a job in a flat with a 6m x 3m terrace balcony. The surface is asphalted to protect the flat below, and there are cheap and ugly non-slip concrete tiles applied by the builder about 10 years ago. It looks like they were glued on as they are laid tight to the asphalt with no adhesive layer I recognise. They will probably (hopefully) lift cleanly without damaging the underlying asphalt. These tiles are only 8mm thick (inc. the tread), so I am tempted to lay on top, although I would have to make up the 8mm where the tiles are proud of the edges by about 200mm

The customer was originally going to build a deck on the surface, but doing so would mean raising the floor level by at least 200mm, and that would require a new balustrade. So they have asked me to come back with some options for tiling.

To be honest, I have never tiled externally so I don't really know where to start. My first thoughts would be to quote on natural stone tiles so the surface is reasonably non-slip, and for preperation and laying something like:

- lift the existing concrete tiles;
- repair any damage to the ashpalt with a liquid bitumen.
- seal the floor with a coating of some external product like the old "black jack".
- use a BAL external waterproof adhesive;
- lay as a normal floor and grout with a BAL waterproof.

However, this job makes me nervous, so any advice you have about the approach, treating the substrate and the materials I should use would be helpful. ...and of course any gotcha's to look out for.

[Dave]

[quote=roylec;13264]I have just looked at a job in a flat with a 6m x 3m terrace balcony. The surface is asphalted to protect the flat below, and there are cheap and ugly non-slip concrete tiles applied by the builder about 10 years ago. It looks like they were glued on as they are laid tight to the asphalt with no adhesive layer I recognise. They will probably (hopefully) lift cleanly without damaging the underlying asphalt. These tiles are only 8mm thick (inc. the tread), so I am tempted to lay on top, although I would have to make up the 8mm where the tiles are proud of the edges by about 200mm

The customer was originally going to build a deck on the surface, but doing so would mean raising the floor level by at least 200mm, and that would require a new balustrade. So they have asked me to come back with some options for tiling.

To be honest, I have never tiled externally so I don't really know where to start. My first thoughts would be to quote on natural stone tiles so the surface is reasonably non-slip, and for preperation and laying something like:

soz will reply poperly after today full of pop lol lol lol

- lift the existing concrete tiles;
- repair any damage to the ashpalt with a liquid bitumen.
- seal the floor with a coating of some external product like the old "black jack".
- use a BAL external waterproof adhesive;
- lay as a normal floor and grout with a BAL waterproof.

However, this job makes me nervous, so any advice you have about the approach, treating the substrate and the materials I should use would be helpful. ...and of course any gotcha's to look out for.[/quot
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firstly remove the old tiles and clean the existing substrate, then prime the asphalt with a suitable acrylic primer ( bal bond ,bal apd ) then apply a thinset modified adhesive evenly and apply shluter ditra mat on top , any joints sealed with ditra kerdi band ( to water proof) then apply a unmodified thin set adhesive and tile with required tile choice ( frost proof tile preferably fully porcelain or other vitrified tile.) grout with modified grout.
all adhesives to be frost resistant check manufactures guidelines. To check all specifications the schluter website can provide all of these. The ditra mat is excellent for external applications and any movement joints must be installed in accordance with industry standards. HOPE THIS HELPS.