Ensuite help

[ukracer]

All stripped out ready to start

Floor is 18mm chipboard which has some flex in it
What are options to fix but not got much height room to avoid step when tiled at door.

Also walls seem to be thin plasterboard and heard might be issue when fixing 300m tiles ,is this true.

Lastly need to board shower area again due to previous water damage, got tanking kit but do i plasterboard (then plaster or not) or use other method.

Regards
Ian

[david campbell]

use multiflex on floor(i prefer bal)! how thin is the plaster board wall?,has the shower area been ripped out and re-sheeted?

[ukracer]

walls look to be 90mm plasterboard ( i think )

The shower area is bare white breeze block at the minute side and back and i need to make a stud wall for the other side again not done yet.

[david campbell]

once you have erected the stud(since it will be dry)you can use an acrylic sealer that is almost like painting the walls,not to sure about the plasterboard though,i take it your tiles are 200mm x 300mm(what depth)cant really see it being a problem though,probably better sheeting the chipboard with a thin ply!!

[david campbell]

pretty sure theres a page on here giving weight ratios for tiles and plasterboard

[malcolml]

weight to wall ratio is 20kg sqm, or have you thought about using wedi boards and fixing direct to breeze block then tile,( wedi is waterproof),for the floor you could use fastflex and screw the boards down to the joists to reduce flex, and use a decoupling matting for extra piece of mind

[CTD inverness]

i would overlay the floor first with 6mm hardibacker (cement based board so it will not expand and contract the same way wood will) to keep the height down be sure to put extra fixings in the chipboard first to get rid of the bounce, as far as the plaster board goes it will take 32kgm2 if in good nick or 20kgm2 if skimmed over with plaster.

[ukracer]

Change of plan!

Now thinking of removing 18mm and replacing with 25mm ,(good idea??)

If i do this what do i need to prep the floor with to tile straight to it.

Been advised pva but read on here that is a no no

[medlar]

PVA = NO NO NO mate

[CTD inverness]

PVA is evil!!!

i dont think i'd bother changing the chipboard (unless it's knackered) just overlay it with either 12mm ply or 6mm cement board.

[Dave]

To keep the height down..changing the chipboard is a good idea......make sure you put noggings in beteween the joists at 300mm centres to strengthen it up...over lay with 22mm wbp ply and then it will be strong enough to tile to...There's needs to be minimal deflection before tiling the floor...

In the shower area ..you say the walls are bare and a stud wall is to be built....

You can either use 12.5mm plaster board then tank it or just use 12.5mm hardibacker type boards..Dot & dab hardibacker on the block wall with rapidset and then just clad the new stud wall with the hardibacker...both in 12.5mm

Any joints in the boards you can tape them with waterproof joint tape...

Prime the walls with acrylic primer before applying the hardibacker...



think we have it covered there...some others might add to it..

[ukracer]

To keep the height down..changing the chipboard is a good idea......make sure you put noggings in beteween the joists at 300mm centres to strengthen it up...over lay with 22mm wbp ply and then it will be strong enough to tile to...There's needs to be minimal deflection before tiling the floor...

In the shower area ..you say the walls are bare and a stud wall is to be built....

You can either use 12.5mm plaster board then tank it or just use 12.5mm hardibacker type boards..Dot & dab hardibacker on the block wall with rapidset and then just clad the new stud wall with the hardibacker...both in 12.5mm

Any joints in the boards you can tape them with waterproof joint tape...

Prime the walls with acrylic primer before applying the hardibacker...



think we have it covered there...some others might add to it..

Respect!
Thanks for info

If i plasterboard shower area and tank do i need to do anything to the bare plasterboard?

[Dave]

Depends wot tanking system your are going to use......i would recommend a membrane....if you need any info on them let me know and i'll get you some and suppliers..

[ukracer]

Already bought all supplies and bought Bal everything, think its there tanking kit also

[Dave]

So you will have the WP1 tanking kit......

The instructions are as follows......

INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
TANKING WITH BAL-WP1:
- Prime all surfaces with BAL-PRIME APD and allow to dry.
- At the following locations apply BAL-WP1 COATING
reinforced with BAL-WP1 POLYESTER TAPE:
– Internal and external corners of walls/partitions and
their junctions with bases, upstands, columns, etc.
– Pipe penetrations, drainage channels and outlets.
– Junctions of different background/base materials.
– Cracks and joints in background/base.
- Apply a second coat of BAL-WP1 COATING over the
BAL-WP1 POLYESTER TAPE.
- Apply BAL-WP1 COATING to walls.
- Apply BAL-WP1 COATING to floor. For heavy duty wet
areas (e.g. communal showers and industrial wet process
areas) and where some vibration or deflection in the base
may be expected (e.g. timber bases), reinforce with BALWP1
POLYESTER MATTING. Bed the matting into the
coating and apply a second layer of coating over the top.
- Ensure that the BAL-WP1 TANKING SYSTEM is applied
free from voids.
- Allow membrane to dry for at least 24 hours before tiling.

[ukracer]

Thats the one , thanks for taking the time to reply

[Sir Ramic]

Sorry but i would never use that sort of tanking kit again. Too slow to use and messy.
Membrane is the way to go IMO.

[malcolml]

you could try homelux waterproof matting fix wth a flexi adhesive and tile