removing obsticles in bathrooms

[spenny]

im going to do my girlfriends mums bathroom for her, she just wants my to tile over existing tiles(only got the 1 bathroom so time is against her and is insistant on going over them). However, there are obviously existing shower parts and sink and toilet in my way. I have never removed or attempted to remove any. How do you go about removing them to enable you to tile under without hjaving to cut around them?

The shower is an bog standard electric shower, probably more than 5 years old.

[Daveyboy]

Hi Spenny, before doing anything, I'd sit your girlfriend and her mum down in front of your computer and show her the threads/posts on 'tile on tile' and some of the horrors that have occurred because the client was insisting on something being done that really shouldn't be..maybe she will then realise she is making a big mistake...

[faithhealer]

Hi Spenny,tell them you will do it properly but tell them they will have to leave the country first. (It was the only way I got my bathroom done!)

[MICK the Tiler]

Never mind what she wants, tell her the old tiles will need to come off, the walls repaired and re-tiled and re-fitted out. Expensive? YES Time consuming? Yes, but it is the correct way to be done and if done properly will last alot longer than 5 minutes.

[bigandy]

tell them to keep the money they were gonna pay someone else and go away for a pre christmas cheap weekend some where or mid week what ever suits. that leaves you to work away whilst have peace and quiet with the tele and some beers(once the bathroom is finished of course)

most things will unscrew and move away enough for you to be able to slide a tile behind.that's if there are no isolators to enable you to remove them. re the shower make sure electric is off to it (at fuse is best) then normally one or two screws hold the cover one then just another couple hold the unit back to the wall loosen and normally they will move forward and if your removing the old tiles you will have room to work

[cornish_crofter]

Agree with the comments on the tiles - take them off!

If you remove sanitary fittings, you may need to replace traps etc. Don't try to reconnect using the old traps, without at least replacing sealing washers. You will definitely need a new pan connector. The seal on the old one will die when you remove it. Get one the same as the one you've got. That is to say if it's a straight connector, get a straight connector to replace it. I like the ones from Screwfix, not because they're cheap but because they ALWAYS seal. That seal is so tight that it hasn't got a hope in hell of leaking. I've had some that wouldn't seal from some merchants, and there's nothing worse than a leaking pan connector!

Sealing washers for traps - 32mm for the sink, and 40mm for the bath.

If you fit new traps (and I would suggest you do) you may have to alter the waste plumbing to accomodate the new traps.

Yopu will also need a new donut washer to seal the cistern to the pan if you separate them., if it is the older type of connection that uses a bracket, you may want to replace the whole lot. You can get these kits from merchants. If it's the newer version that work with two bolts through the underside of the unit, you may need to change the kit. The washers don't like being used a second time. Having said that, you may be able to get away without separating them.

If her suite was installed professionally I suspect you'll have solvent weld fittings. Otherwise you could have a mixture of solvent weld and pushfit, with compression fit in between. Solvent weld and pushfit wastes are NOT compatable. When you go from one to the other, you'll need a compression fit coupling between them.

Hot and cold supplies - It is a good idea (and also complient with regs) to fit isolating valves to the taps and the cold feed to the cistern. It may be a good idea to put these in whilst you have the sanitary fittings out of the way. People usually fit those ballofix type valve that operate with a flat screwdriver.

As far as physically removing the units from the walls, I suspect your kit will be screwed to the wall but there are an increasing number of ranges that are designed to be siliconed to the wall. If these are then simply slice down between the fittings and the wall with a hacksaw blade or similar to break the seal. Then you can clean them up.

Good luck, and ask again if you need help. I'm doing a fair few bathrooms at the moment.

[365drills]

Yes I'd agree with the above.

Spend a day gutting the room back to the basic shell. Give yourself a blank canvas.

On a seperate note removing appliances can be tricky if retaining bolts have rusted. Usually at the base of the loo. And behind the pedestal. Just be careful not to over toque the screws or you will be drilling them out and you might crack the china.

And put a peg on your nose as you pull the loo off the soil stack (and have a carrier bag and rubber band ready too ! )

[Paul]

Agree with the comments on the tiles - take them off!

If you remove sanitary fittings, you may need to replace traps etc. Don't try to reconnect using the old traps, without at least replacing sealing washers. You will definitely need a new pan connector. The seal on the old one will die when you remove it. Get one the same as the one you've got. That is to say if it's a straight connector, get a straight connector to replace it. I like the ones from Screwfix, not because they're cheap but because they ALWAYS seal. That seal is so tight that it hasn't got a hope in hell of leaking. I've had some that wouldn't seal from some merchants, and there's nothing worse than a leaking pan connector!

Sealing washers for traps - 32mm for the sink, and 40mm for the bath.

If you fit new traps (and I would suggest you do) you may have to alter the waste plumbing to accomodate the new traps.

Yopu will also need a new donut washer to seal the cistern to the pan if you separate them., if it is the older type of connection that uses a bracket, you may want to replace the whole lot. You can get these kits from merchants. If it's the newer version that work with two bolts through the underside of the unit, you may need to change the kit. The washers don't like being used a second time. Having said that, you may be able to get away without separating them.

If her suite was installed professionally I suspect you'll have solvent weld fittings. Otherwise you could have a mixture of solvent weld and pushfit, with compression fit in between. Solvent weld and pushfit wastes are NOT compatable. When you go from one to the other, you'll need a compression fit coupling between them.

Hot and cold supplies - It is a good idea (and also complient with regs) to fit isolating valves to the taps and the cold feed to the cistern. It may be a good idea to put these in whilst you have the sanitary fittings out of the way. People usually fit those ballofix type valve that operate with a flat screwdriver.

As far as physically removing the units from the walls, I suspect your kit will be screwed to the wall but there are an increasing number of ranges that are designed to be siliconed to the wall. If these are then simply slice down between the fittings and the wall with a hacksaw blade or similar to break the seal. Then you can clean them up.

Good luck, and ask again if you need help. I'm doing a fair few bathrooms at the moment.

All this sounds complicated isnt there an easier way ?

[Sir Ramic]

All this sounds complicated isnt there an easier way ?

Yep, get a professional in

[cornish_crofter]

All this sounds complicated isnt there an easier way ?

Not if you're doing it yourself - sorry

The last thing you need is to find the suite leaking when you've put it back.

Essentially you should approach it as a new install but with the advantage that most of the plumbing is in the right place.

[Paul]

i would have thought you could just cut around your tiles

[TilingLogistics]

i would have thought you could just cut around your tiles

Paul

Don't take this the wrong way but a guy came on and asked for advice and got "Good Advice"

Pro tilers do things the quickest and most professional way. If there was a quicker method that achieved the same results we would do it but there is a right way and a wrong way to do things and in this case he has had the correct advice.

If you could just cut around and achieve a professional result someone would have explained it to you.

There is someone on here who uses the phrase "Pay cheap Pay twice" I don't think there was ever a better statement

Kev

[Paul]

No Prob Kev id rather know the correct way than the cowboy way so thanks for that

Im Looking forward to next week at Nett and learning more