Bonding plaster

[mutley]

Hiya,
apologies in advance as i know this has been done to death, I have searched but seem to be going around in circles...

Can you tile straight onto either bonding or hardwall (both undercoats) ?

I've read threads that say yes, some say no. Does the answer depend on whether you're using cement based or tubbed adhesive, and what if any diffrence does priming make these surfaces ?

I've spoken to the technical line at British Gypsum and they say yes although when I check their site they state that you can only tile onto either finish plasters or Dri-coat

I only ask as most of the bathrooms I've seen recently needed replastered rather than just filled with rapid set. I'm happy with my plastering skills but dont want to have to add skim coats if i dont have to. I know boarding out is always an option but sometimes they just wont accept it, never mind that at £5-8 a bag it works out a lot cheaper than rapid set.

Cheers in advance

[Dave]

Bonding/base coats cannot be tiled to...not stable enough.....but patch/one coat plaster can be tiled , much stronger body to it.....
I use Wickes or B&Q one coat ( white in colour ) and dries like bell metal in a few hours...

[mutley]

Dave,
thanks for the quick reply..

Can you explain further regarding being unstable, with my limited knowledge i would have presumed it was similar to a sand & cement background. Not questioning your reply, just trying to understand

Having never used one coat what's it like going on and how easy is it to work with ?

Thanks

[Dave]

Bonding plaster/browning etc is a lot softer than sand & cement for starters and is quite brittle in texture and very porous....it is designed to accept gypsum skims which bite into the surface( gypsum on gypsum) but tiling just pulls away from it in my experiance.....
I have seen tiles fixed to bonding coats and the next day you can literally just pull them off with your fingers and the bonding usually comes with it......that is why IMO opinion it should not be tiled too....
And YES the british Gypsum site does say not to tile to base coats as well......which is strange why you were told this......

[Oli]

Bonding/base coats cannot be tiled to...not stable enough.....but patch/one coat plaster can be tiled , much stronger body to it.....
I use Wickes or B&Q one coat ( white in colour ) and dries like bell metal in a few hours...

How thick can you go with one coat Dave?

[Dave]

How thick can you go with one coat Dave?

The B&Q one...yes B&Q...lol lol.....can do upto about 30mm with no slumping...in one go......and it dried very hard as well.......but if skimming in deeper holes etc this will take longer to dry...but i prefer the wickes onecoat it is better.....

[Oli]

Ive got a job coming up, the guy had the bathroom plastered, then decided he didnt want the huge skirting boards, so now theres a huge gap between the bottom of the plaster and the wall

[mutley]

Cant explain their reply, honest I never made it up

Is the one coat easy to work with ?

Last question for the night

Thanks

[SnipSnap]

Hi Dave!

Does the "one coat" need also priming with APD or equivalent in order to use cementuos based adhesive? Chears!

[Dave]

Ive got a job coming up, the guy had the bathroom plastered, then decided he didnt want the huge skirting boards, so now theres a huge gap between the bottom of the plaster and the wall

If you can Oli ..chop back a bit and dot&dab some plaster board in.....much quicker for type of job....

[Dave]

Hi Dave!

Does the "one coat" need also priming with APD or equivalent in order to use cementuos based adhesive? Chears!

I do yes with the b&q one..( gypsum based)....

But i prefer to use the wickes one mostly...

Wickes *–*Building Materials*–*Plaster*–*Bagged*–*O ne Coat Plaster

[SnipSnap]

Ive got a job coming up, the guy had the bathroom plastered, then decided he didnt want the huge skirting boards, so now theres a huge gap between the bottom of the plaster and the wall

Hi Oli,

You can of course fill it with tile waste (if you have any), saves you taking them to the dump and pay for it. LOL

[Oli]

Hi Oli,

You can of course fill it with tile waste (if you have any), saves you taking them to the dump and pay for it. LOL

The plumber has kindly chashed all the piped into the plaster aswell, leaving a gap the size of the grand canyon between the pipes, so i think it'll be easier to put plasterboard in the gaps as they are half the height of the wall,

why o why didnt the plumber go in first, then have the walls plastered

The guys had the whole house plastered, and then gone round and removed the skirting boards in every room, theres huge strips of plaster missing at the bottom of every wall, they were high skirtings aswell

[SnipSnap]

The plumber has kindly chashed all the piped into the plaster aswell, leaving a gap the size of the grand canyon between the pipes, so i think it'll be easier to put plasterboard in the gaps as they are half the height of the wall,

why o why didnt the plumber go in first, then have the walls plastered

The guys had the whole house plastered, and then gone round and removed the skirting boards in every room, theres huge strips of plaster missing at the bottom of every wall, they were high skirtings aswell

You should be greatful to the plasterer and plumber as you can charge the customer for the extra work!

I never understand why some plasterers, in many cases, never plaster down to the very bottom of the walls. Sometimes you can see that the skirting does not sit plumb.

Also, quite often all internal corners tend to be angled outwards causing the tile to be also angled out. If you are using a combination of large format tiles and brickbond pattern then this angle problem can give the tiler some hasle and frustration (especially if the "bending" starts past the halfway height on a verticle) as the middle section of the wall would need extra adhesive or the internal corner (where applicable) will all need to be chopped flat.

[whitebeam]

The plumber has kindly chashed all the piped into the plaster aswell, leaving a gap the size of the grand canyon between the pipes, so i think it'll be easier to put plasterboard in the gaps as they are half the height of the wall,

why o why didnt the plumber go in first, then have the walls plastered

The guys had the whole house plastered, and then gone round and removed the skirting boards in every room, theres huge strips of plaster missing at the bottom of every wall, they were high skirtings aswell

Probably find that the old walls were lime morter and the skirtings were put on first then plastered many moons ago, Do see your point in why pull the skirtings off after the walls have been plastered

[LJB Tiling]

Mmm, 1 of the walls where i have to do a job has bonding plaster on it, shall i get the customer to pay to get it plastered before i tile on that wall or is there another way around it like maybe pva ha ha.

Nah seriously whats the best way to do this if the customer doesn't wanna pay a plasterer to do it.

[whitebeam]

The bonding is very dry now and would not take a finish, normally I would pva and skim thats with no tiles applied. In this instance I would prime with bal apd and use a spf for the tiles as long as there not over weight for plaster